Just a quick last minute plea for a second hand driver's door for the Octavia. I'm trying to sort out the locking issue in a previous thread and can't afford the dealers prices for the bits. The nearest scrappy with an Octavia in from me is a 160 mile round trip. If anyone has one or has stripped a car recently then can you please let me know? It's a long shot, but thought it was worth a try before I set off on Saturday to see what state the car is in in the yard. The owner was very vague and wouldn't commit to the state of the vehicle. It's a long way to go if it's a watsed journey. Fingers crossed.

why do you need a whole door?

Very good point.

It sounds a bit excessive, but there is method in the madness. I have absolutely no idea why the LED isn't working and why the driver's lock doesn't work off the fob. My theory - as random as it may be - is to replace bits, part by part to try to solve the problem. I've read what seems about a million threads on this and have tried pretty much everything people suggest. As good as the threads are, none have solved the problem. If I have a whole door, loom intact, then I can try to work things through, eliminating parts as I go along. I'm stuck up here in Scarborough and don't have anyone nearby to help, (cue the violins).

If I was in West Yorkshire, there'd be more members/scrapyards/people to help. I figure that a whole door would be a one stop shop for everything I could need to fix the issue. I can't be arsed to drive 160 miles each time I need to get a different bit if the one I try doesn't work. Does this make sense? I know I've rambled on.

What you need is a driver door window motor. Attached to the motor is the control unit for the door electrics. On the driver side it controls the window motor, door lock, heated mirror, flashing LED and armrest switches.

What you need is a driver door window motor. Attached to the motor is the control unit for the door electrics. On the driver side it controls the window motor, door lock, heated mirror, flashing LED and armrest switches.

I'd figured that if the car in question has this still attached, I'd try to get it off and see what condition it's in. Mine looks absolutely fine, no corrosion just had a bit of liquid in there. That's why I'm stumped and thought a whole door would include the loom, door lock & microswitch, window motor & control unit. If it's the pins in the plug that goes into the control unit or the red and yellow wire that's been highlighted, I could cannibalise the old loom for bits.

Which pin does the LED work from? If I had that info I might be able to check the voltage in that particular wire. Does the door lock work off the same pin? I know this is a bit like an 'Idiots Guide To Car Maintenance', but once I've been told or figured it out then I can remember for next time. Honest...

I'd figured that if the car in question has this still attached, I'd try to get it off and see what condition it's in. Mine looks absolutely fine, no corrosion just had a bit of liquid in there. That's why I'm stumped and thought a whole door would include the loom, door lock & microswitch, window motor & control unit. If it's the pins in the plug that goes into the control unit or the red and yellow wire that's been highlighted, I could cannibalise the old loom for bits.

Which pin does the LED work from? If I had that info I might be able to check the voltage in that particular wire. Does the door lock work off the same pin? I know this is a bit like an 'Idiots Guide To Car Maintenance', but once I've been told or figured it out then I can remember for next time. Honest...

The power (red/yellow wire) is reaching the window motor control unit or the windows wouldn't work. Part of the circuit board in the control unit has probably burnt out.

If you press the central locking button on the driver's armrest, do the other doors lock/unlock? If so, I would bet that the connections that pass through the 'A' pillar are OK.

If you use the key in the door, do you get any electrical assistance when you lock/unlock the door? My guess is not, but the other doors will work.

You have PM

The power (red/yellow wire) is reaching the window motor control unit or the windows wouldn't work. Part of the circuit board in the control unit has probably burnt out.

If you press the central locking button on the driver's armrest, do the other doors lock/unlock? If so, I would bet that the connections that pass through the 'A' pillar are OK.

If you use the key in the door, do you get any electrical assistance when you lock/unlock the door? My guess is not, but the other doors will work.

Thanks for the pm. As for what happens, the armrest buttons operate everything other than the driver's lock. When I turn the key in the door lock, it opens and closes all the doors. (I can hear it operating the motor in the passenger door) The automatic window feature also works when using the key in the lock. I don't think it's giving me any assistance in the driver's door though. Could this narrow things down a bit?

sounds like you need the motor and loom. they don't always corrode the pins sometimes they fill the ecu up inside and kill it like that. surely there is a scrapyard closer than 160 miles away. pleny of cars being broken on here too in the cars parts section.

we use road rescue in poole for used looms and motors when we are stuck

Could just be the lock motor it's self? One of my back doors was playing up and once I replaced the locking motor it all worked again.

For info the LED only flashes if the system is working properly, for example when mine deadlocked as it should the LED would flash, sometimes it didn't flash and after some investigation I worked out that when the LED wasn't flashing it was because the door was not deadlocking and could be opened from the inside. Just a thought but might he worth sitting inside and getting someone to lock the car and swing if it can be opened from the inside?

Edited 19 January, 201115 yr by Nickbes

Could just be the lock motor it's self? One of my back doors was playing up and once I replaced the locking motor it all worked again.

For info the LED only flashes if the system is working properly, for example when mine deadlocked as it should the LED would flash, sometimes it didn't flash and after some investigation I worked out that when the LED wasn't flashing it was because the door was not deadlocking and could be opened from the inside. Just a thought but might he worth sitting inside and getting someone to lock the car and swing if it can be opened from the inside?

Ah, I see. The LED is to say all's well. It could just be the motor then if everything else is working. I'll check on ebay to see how much they are.