hi all

my not so trusty pick-up is not firing on no`s 1 and 4,i had a simular problem last year,a new coil pack was the answer then,ive tryed swapping coil packs with a spare i have but made no difference,plugs are all good,theres 4 wires in the connector block which attaches to the coil pack,2 thick,2 thin,the thick red wire is live,the thick brown wire is not,could this be the problem ?

i like to think iam pretty good with mechanical problems,engine re-builds mostly,but iam not good on electrics,old cars with points ,condensors,roto arms and dizzys i can understand....sensors and black boxes are a mistery to me...would appreciate any help with this....best regards paul

you dont need to run an hide behind your clockwork ignition

it's most likely to be a dodgy coilpack again tbh,

Since 1 and 4 share a coil (2 and 3 are on the other one), I think I'd have to agree with Tom. For reference, red is the live feed from the battery, brown is earth, green/yellow is the exciter for the 1&4 coil and grey/red is the exciter for the 2&3 coil.

Edited 30 January, 201115 yr by RobinSLXi

the thing to do is, get a test lamp and check you are getting a 'pulse' at the coilpack connector, this way you can discount or confirm a wiring fault

the thing to do is, get a test lamp and check you are getting a 'pulse' at the coilpack connector, this way you can discount or confirm a wiring fault

hi all...thanks for your replys...i did buy a new coil on thursday on the way home...guy at the local auto parts counter searched for part no from my registration number sold me the coil which looks the same but went to fit it today and the block connectors are slightly different...it wont fit...going to take it back tommrow and see if hes got the right one...not cheap at £91.....

will brave the cold this afternoon and see if i have a `pulse` at the coil pack connector....will update later

hows the painting on the pick-up going teflontom....great project.....best regards paul

back from the garage of doom,cold and frustrated

well i braved the cold and went down to the garage to see if i had a pulse.....my wife says` why are you bothering...i know you hav`nt got one `vert funny lady my wife

using my trusty test lamp i un-plug the coil connecting plug and first test the thick red that i now know is the live feed, yes no problems there...next up the earth (thick brown) also good....next the two pulse leads...touching the metal connectors gives no reading on both....so thinking that parhaps the circuit needs to be complete before it will pulse i reconnect and carefully pierce the outer insulation with my test lamp....with the engine started and running on cylinders 2 and 3 i try the grey wire first..still no pulse...then the brown wire...this cuts out the engine...so i guess this is the feed for cylinders 2 and 3

am i testing this correctly or have i got a problem further down the line..........

i would have taken the fuel injector plugs off and taken the spark plugs out and cranked it over on the starter with the coil pack disconnected from the loom, the way you've done it does not prove much, the fault may still be a short in coilpack

edit: yes forgot to say, the ignition drivers are a swtiched earth, so you need to go from connector to batt 12v+ to get a light up

Edited 30 January, 201115 yr by TeflonTom

the other thing you can do is check the primary/secondary resistances of the coils as well to check they haven't broken don't or gone open/short circuit

thank you for the extra info teflontom

back in the garage of doom i remove coil , plugs and fuel injector plugs

connect my test lamp from 12v+ to the grey wire in the coil connect.the lamp lits up immediately,and when cranked starts to pulse

then to the green wire.test lamp lights but is dim.when cranked brightens up a bit but dos`nt pulse

is that two problems ?

the green wire goes straight back to pin 71 on the ecu and is not connected to anything else

i hate to say this but i think you are going to need a new ecu, sounds like the ignition driver circuit has blown, it will be one of the large transistors on the pcb, i don't recommend attempting to fix an ecu as the vast majority of the components are surface mounted and you'll end up doing more damage than good

i have a simos ecu here for a 1300mpi engine, but you will need to reset the settings in the immo unit to get it to work, it's a simple 10 second procedure using vag-com, you dont need the key code or anything.. maybe it's worth checking the vag-com owners register thing on this site to see if anybody local can do it for you

edit: it may still be the case that the coilpack is foobared too, something has caused the ignition driver to fail, most probably a short circuit on the primary winding for cylinders 1+4 (same transformer, wasted spark system)

Edited 30 January, 201115 yr by TeflonTom

hi tom........thinking about it over night i was thinking the same.......it was only late last yeat that i replaced the coil pack but never did find the reason for faiure...i had it checked on vag-com but no faults there....not bad for a 11 year old pick up....would your ecu be for sale...if yes how much would you want for it inc p+p....

thanks for all your help and best regards paul

pm'd

edit: have you disabled private messages? can't seem to send one to you

Edited 31 January, 201115 yr by TeflonTom

pm'd

edit: have you disabled private messages? can't seem to send one to you

hi teflon tom......pm`s ok now...would you like to try again...many thanks paul

pm sent