I changed my fuel filter earlier and I bled the system using a squeezy bulb to pull the fuel through the filter and bled out of the bleed nipple on the pipe just above the pump. All the bubbles of air appeared to clear and I did this until just diesel came out of the nipple.

On restarting it ran for a few seconds and then died. I assume air has got in the system and I have been churning the starter, but to no avail.

Have I done it correctly (the Haynes manual doesnt say how to bleed the system) ?

How do I know that I do not have another coincidental problem - like the immobliser or the solonoid malfunctioning. ?

If the immobliser doesnt switch off, how do you know - is a light supposed to come on for example ?

I cannot see any way of testing the solonoid (as on an older diesel for example where you can take it out easily and remove the plunger).

Any help gratefully received.

Mike

I changed my fuel filter earlier and I bled the system using a squeezy bulb to pull the fuel through the filter and bled out of the bleed nipple on the pipe just above the pump. All the bubbles of air appeared to clear and I did this until just diesel came out of the nipple.

On restarting it ran for a few seconds and then died. I assume air has got in the system and I have been churning the starter, but to no avail.

Have I done it correctly (the Haynes manual doesnt say how to bleed the system) ?

How do I know that I do not have another coincidental problem - like the immobliser or the solonoid malfunctioning. ?

If the immobliser doesnt switch off, how do you know - is a light supposed to come on for example ?

I cannot see any way of testing the solonoid (as on an older diesel for example where you can take it out easily and remove the plunger).

Any help gratefully received.

Mike

Its unlikely that the immobiliser is preventing start up if you`ve just changed the filter, its actually easy to remove it but we don`t give the details in live play. Undo 2 of theinjector pipes where they sit on the injector tops and turn the engine over it should quite soon fire up on 2 then tighten them back as its running and it will soon clear itself and be back to normal.

Edited 31 January, 201115 yr by rolo

remove the plastic T piece on the filter (with the return pipes on) and fill the filter from the hole untill full. then crank it for a while till it starts and runs, they can be a bitch sometimes :yes:

Thanks all.

I had already done the things advised, so I assumed it may have been something else. BUT, after giving the battery a good charge & much cranking (and a quick spray of 'Easy Start) it fired up last night.

I am pleased that I dont have to change the fuel filter again for a while.

I have only had this car a few months, its my first Skoda & apart from this hassle I am very pleased with it.

I didnt have a tag with the 4 numbers on with the keys required to get a new key when I got the car, and if the immobilisor dies I will be up the proverbable creek without a paddle, so for future reference can someone email me ([email protected]) with details of how to bypass the imobiliser. I did it once on a 2.8 Fiat Ducato TD van & it was quite simple.

Ta

Mike

To be fair if you had an immobiliser problem having the login code wouldn't be much help anyway, so I wouldn't worry in that regard - it's only really useful for learning new keys and/or removing old ones. Besides, the majority of immobiliser issues with Felicias are symptoms of other problems (typically battery or alternator) anyway.

For new keys, an independent locksmith could either clone an existing transponder or extract the code from the box (which is pathetically easy with the right kit) to program a new one in-car, and dealer systems can automatically retrieve the necessary data online from the factory, so the technicians don't need (or indeed have access to) login codes either.