So my other half got a 2007 MK2 Fabia second hand the other week, it had done 20000 miles and was in really good nick. However we've noticed that the car is quite rough whilst sitting at the lights or in traffic.

It still had a weeks warranty left so we took it to the garage and they replaced the ECU.

It's now not as rough but there's still a definite wobble whilst the engine is ticking over, it's like a wave every coupld of seconds and early impressions suggest that it's worst when there's less petrol in the tank.

I've had a search round the forum and it seems as though a rough idle is not too uncommon for these motors and one of the suggestions is to use better quality fuel (which we're now giving a go). I just wondered how rough does the engine run on these posts? Ours doesn't seem very mild and it's quite distracting when sitting there getting a vibration on your bum!

The engine runs really well otherwise.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Edited 7 February, 201115 yr by PeterUK

So my other half got a 2007 MK2 Fabia second hand the other week, it had done 20000 miles and was in really good nick. However we've noticed that the car is quite rough whilst sitting at the lights or in traffic.

It still had a weeks warranty left so we took it to the garage and they replaced the ECU.

It's now not as rough but there's still a definite wobble whilst the engine is ticking over, it's like a wave every coupld of seconds and early impressions suggest that it's worst when there's less petrol in the tank.

I've had a search round the forum and it seems as though a rough idle is not too uncommon for these motors and one of the suggestions is to use better quality fuel (which we're now giving a go). I just wondered how rough does the engine run on these posts? Ours doesn't seem very mild and it's quite distracting when sitting there getting a vibration on your bum!

The engine runs really well otherwise.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Hi Peter. which model is it? I have the 70ho 12v and whilst the engine has a characteristic 3 pot sound it is in no way rough at idle and there is no vibration.In fact on occasions whilst at traffic lights I've given the engine a little rev just to be sure it hadn't stalled it was so quiet. I don't know whether the 6v engine gives more vibration, maybe someone who has one can confirm.

Hi, thanks for answering - it's the 6v.

The dealership said 'no it shouldn't be doing that' and then proclaimed to have fixed it by replacing the ECU; but it's still there, albeit not so bad.

Edited 7 February, 201115 yr by PeterUK

What's the idle speed? What you are describing sounds characteristic of an engine that's idling too slowly. It might just be the dealer needs to reset the engine idle, as the battery would have been disconnected to fit the new ecu. This could mean the engine idle needs a reset. Or you may find it will do this itself once you have been driving it over the next few days. I'm not sure what ecu setup program your car runs. Horkin, you may have more informatin on this regarding engine idle speed mate! Should be the same as the 6v.

Edited 8 February, 201115 yr by Estate Man

I have the same engine as you, and no it isnt rough at idle at all.

What's the idle speed? What you are describing sounds characteristic of an engine that's idling too slowly. It might just be the dealer needs to reset the engine idle, as the battery would have been disconnected to fit the new ecu. This could mean the engine idle needs a reset. Or you may find it will do this itself once you have been driving it over the next few days. I'm not sure what ecu setup program your car runs. Horkin, you may have more informatin on this regarding engine idle speed mate! Should be the same as the 6v.

My engine on start up when cold( just started it to check) is idling at 1000rpm and smooth as a babies bum!

Edited 9 February, 201115 yr by horkin

I know nothing about the MKII. Is this the same HTP engine as in the MKI fabia? If so it could be the coolant temperature sensor, or clean the throttle body out that might do the trick.

Just to confirm, my car idles at just under 1000RPM cold and 800RPM warm

Just to confirm, my car idles at just under 1000RPM cold and 800RPM warm

seems to be spot on to me

Thanks for the help guys - whilst my missus was driving yesterday the exhaust management warning light came on so we've booked it in to the dealers tomorrow.

Will let you know the outcome....

Thanks for the help guys - whilst my missus was driving yesterday the exhaust management warning light came on so we've booked it in to the dealers tomorrow.

Will let you know the outcome....

Faulty coil pak (common problem) or dicky spark plug.

Management light came on because it detected a misfire. The light will go out on its own after several starts (usually within 2 days) provided the misfire is fixed (or it goes away by itself).

Edited 14 February, 201115 yr by xman

My other half heard back from the garage and they now say one of the valves need to be removed and possibly replaced; it's 2 and a half weeks out of warranty now so they're going to contact Skoda to see if they can offer any kind of goodwill repair gesture otherwise it's 'quite a large sum of money' :(

Fingers crossed eh?

My wife's MKI had the same problem. I just p/x'd it to avoid having to do anything about it.

have noticed something similar in my mk1 2006 model, kind of like is dropping for a second or two, or doesn't like sitting at idle. putting a bit of gas on to bring up the revs slightly and it will go back to sounding normal.

Edited 16 February, 201115 yr by Gumby

My other half heard back from the garage and they now say one of the valves need to be removed and possibly replaced; it's 2 and a half weeks out of warranty now so they're going to contact Skoda to see if they can offer any kind of goodwill repair gesture otherwise it's 'quite a large sum of money' :(Fingers crossed eh?

From your OP you reported the fault when you still had one week of the warranty left, so the fault occurred during the warranty period. The garage must have believed there was a fault as they replaced the ECU.

From your OP you reported the fault when you still had one week of the warranty left, so the fault occurred during the warranty period. The garage must have believed there was a fault as they replaced the ECU.

You make an excellent point Moley. This IS covered under warranty so the OP'er must be sure to remind the garage of the fact that the problem was still there after the ecu replacement. The law is very clear on this.

Yes that didn't escape my notice and even at the initial check under warranty the garage said it could be the ECU or a valve problem. I'll see what they say tomorrow but I will push this as it was initially reported under warranty.

Thanks lads.

Yikes, missus has heard back from the garage and they reckon the cost of repair is about £1000 and that they will put in a goodwill request next week.

Not impressed and the other half is going to contact Skoda direct to explain that she feels, as the problem was reported under warranty, and she then took it back a week and a half after it was 'fixed' it should still be repaired under warranty.

Yikes, missus has heard back from the garage and they reckon the cost of repair is about £1000 and that they will put in a goodwill request next week.

Not impressed and the other half is going to contact Skoda direct to explain that she feels, as the problem was reported under warranty, and she then took it back a week and a half after it was 'fixed' it should still be repaired under warranty.

Hello, There has been talk in recent issues of "Car Mechanics", I think from about November to March, of a known valve problem with the 1.2 three cylinder engine. The cure seems to be to replace the cylinder head. I don't think its that common as a letter in the Owner's Club magazine didn't get any replies. Car Mechanics said an RAC patrolman said it came up on his database.

I'd like to hear how you get on.

Good luck, John

I know that the 1.2 6v HTP engine (for whatever reason) doesn't stay at a steady rev, whilst doing emissions tests on them for MOT's i noticed that they fluctuate even if your foot is locked into place. But i'm assuming it's a bit more than that so here's a couple of suggestions -

Ask your garage to adapt the throttle valve

&

Ask them to perform a cylinder leak test and a compression test.

The results from those will give a clear inclination as to whether or not it needs a cylinder head. Considering the ECU change almost settled the issue i'd say it could be a coding fault, the new ECU will have come with basic settings and a throttle valve adaptation could be the cure.

Usually i wouldn't suggestion such tests be carried out for an engine that's hunting but from experience i know that the 1.2 6v has had cylinder head issues in the past on the mk1 fabias, i'm not sure if they straightened it out for the mk. 2 fabias or not.

Edited 21 February, 201115 yr by AshCooper

Thanks lads - I went down to the garage on Saturday to find out what's going on and it does now appear the cylinder head needs replacing which Skoda are going to cover the costs for thankfully.

They're ordering the part today to arrive on Weds, hopefully the next post will be 'Problem fixed'

Thanks again for all your help.

Edited 21 February, 201115 yr by PeterUK

Okay so after just over two weeks the missus picked up the car yesterday and the juddering has pretty much gone thankfully

If we concentrate whilst the car's sat at the traffic lights we can feel the faintest of wobbles a couple of times a minute but nothing like it was before when our legs were shaking around because of it every 2 seconds.

It took a few days longer than expected as they realised they had to order in another part after 'something had seized in the manifold' when fitting the new cylinder but pretty pleased with the garage

Edited 3 March, 201115 yr by PeterUK

Thanks for the help guys - whilst my missus was driving yesterday the exhaust management warning light came on so we've booked it in to the dealers tomorrow.

Will let you know the outcome....

Hi, my wife's Fabia 6v htp also has had a lumpy idle when warm (at 800 rpm) since we bought it. It had a misfire 2 days ago and lost power. Found to be the coil pack on no.2 cylinder had gone. After being replaced, hey presto the lumpy idle has all but disappeared - even though the warm idle speed is still 800rpm! I wonder what would happen if no.s 1 & 3 coil packs were replaced too (not cheap). Just thought that this might provide you with an alternative solution - worth a try on a diagnostic test. With only 3 cylinders I don't think the idle 'wobble' is ever going to be eradicated - even though it's got balanced crankshafts.