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Aux Belt Tensioner - Potentially Starting To Fail

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Sorry to drag this up again but I am doing the alternator pulley today. But you the &@*! do you get the pulley off the power steering pump. Mr Haynes says to put an allen key in the centre of the axle and undo the pulley bolts but the centre on mine is circular???

Also Mr Haynes is very wrong about removing the alternator from the bottom, you can't do it as there is the bracket which holds the alternator, compressor, fuel pump which is in the way. Spent about 1.5 hours so far and not really achieved anything yet.

You don't need to remove the pulley from the power steering pump. Undo the bolts and push the pump out of the way.

Brain re-engaged now. I realised you need to loosen the pulley bolts before you remove the aux belt. Obvious really...

rbaldwin - On my car you have to remove the pulley to get at 3 of the 4 bolts which hold the pump to the engine.

Edited by trundlenut

Always thought you had the AHF, not the ASV.

Always thought you had the AHF, not the ASV.

I think mine is more PITA than ASV.

Alternator is now out and pulley came off second attempt, quick tap with a hammer and it loosened off. Just got to get the bloddy thing back in the car now and reattach everything I had to undo/remove to get it out.

The little retaining clip thing for the cable on the alternator is almost impossible to see with the alternator in situ.

Edited by trundlenut

Right then, finally got it all back together before it rained and it all sounds good and the tensioner isn't wobbling around any more either.

If anyone around the Notts/Derby area needs to borrow the tool for removing the pulley give me a shout. Hopefully I won't need to use it again for a while.

  • Author

Right then, finally got it all back together before it rained and it all sounds good and the tensioner isn't wobbling around any more either.

Nice one.... not a difficult job, but a time consuming one!

  • Author

Right then, finally got it all back together before it rained and it all sounds good and the tensioner isn't wobbling around any more either.

Nice one.... not a difficult job, but a time consuming one!

Even with the tool that lets you remove the pulley in-situ, you can still end up scraping your knuckles.

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Even with the tool that lets you remove the pulley in-situ, you can still end up scraping your knuckles.

I can't imaging trying to remove the pulley in-situ is an easy task, as there is not much room in there....

I can't imaging trying to remove the pulley in-situ is an easy task, as there is not much room in there....

It's not too bad when the car is on a lift.

With the alternator still bolted to the engine, it can make the pulley itself easier to remove, as the alternator is not moving about.

Here's the Metalnurd tool. It's a shortened version of the standard tool

post-2559-0-12791400-1308993719_thumb.jpg

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The benefits of a real garage.... I have to make do with some scaffolding planks to lift the car up a bit in the air!

It's not too bad when the car is on a lift.

With the alternator still bolted to the engine, it can make the pulley itself easier to remove, as the alternator is not moving about.

Here's the Metalnurd tool. It's a shortened version of the standard tool

post-2559-0-12791400-1308993719_thumb.jpg

Interesting. Mind you the first one I did had to be left soaking in penetrating oil overnight and then plenty of brute force to get the pulley off, so I;m not sure if that would have been possible to do in-situ.

To stop the alternator moving around when removing the pulley I strap it to a workmate with a loading strap.

I must admit I do have quite a few bits of skin missing after yesterdays adventures. The design and fitment of the bit of plastic which sits vertically in the wheel arch in front of the air con compressor is a particular pain to get on and off.

The next plan is to clean out the EGR and inlet manifold. I could see the EGR is well gummed up when I took the boost pipe off.

Interesting. Mind you the first one I did had to be left soaking in penetrating oil overnight and then plenty of brute force to get the pulley off, so I;m not sure if that would have been possible to do in-situ.

To stop the alternator moving around when removing the pulley I strap it to a workmate with a loading strap.

I must admit I do have quite a few bits of skin missing after yesterdays adventures. The design and fitment of the bit of plastic which sits vertically in the wheel arch in front of the air con compressor is a particular pain to get on and off.

The next plan is to clean out the EGR and inlet manifold. I could see the EGR is well gummed up when I took the boost pipe off.

When you take off the inlet manifold, you may need to remove the little heatshield so the hex socket doesn't round off the inlet manifold bolts above it. Also, be careful not the break the pipe from the exhaust to the EGR.

You should replace the head/inlet manifold gasket, the EGR/manifold o-ring and the EGR/EGR pipe gasket.

When you take off the inlet manifold, you may need to remove the little heatshield so the hex socket doesn't round off the inlet manifold bolts above it. Also, be careful not the break the pipe from the exhaust to the EGR.

You should replace the head/inlet manifold gasket, the EGR/manifold o-ring and the EGR/EGR pipe gasket.

Thanks for that, I was thinking that the pipe from teh EGR to the exhaust looked a little delicate. I have a full set of gaskets in the boot ready. As a minimum I will just do the EGR but I would like to get the manifold off too as it is bound to be cacked up as bad as the EGR valve.

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