recon or new rack ?

[poorly_felicia]

friends felly is in need of a new steering rack - there is play in the inner rack (pinion gear worn i think). the tie rods are also relatively knackered. The pinion adjuster is maxed out and there is still play. (its not power steering btw)

Went down to local factors, can get a "as new" AMK recon rack for £35, or who-knows-what at skoda dealership.

anyone have experience with recon racks? AMK ?

also - was recommended by someone that no matter what i get it would be well worthwhile really packing grease into it as they are usually pretty stingy at the factory / recon place.

thoughts?

[fordfan]

AMK is a brand supplied by a lot of motor factors for items such as CV joints and steering racks. We had one problem with a rack for a Vectra some years ago (it may have been AMK), where the track rod ball was tight in its socket which resulted in the track rod fracturing.

In my view a recon rack at that price would be better than a second hand one for a little less. Personally I've fitted racks from motor factors to my own cars and never had any problems.

[RainbowFire]

If you're feeling brave, I believe Tom did a thread on replacing non-PAS with PAS

[poorly_felicia]

If you're feeling brave, I believe Tom did a thread on replacing non-PAS with PAS

i did ask them, but they want the cheaper alternative i would have enjoyed the challenge though

[TeflonTom]

ahh dammit i threw a steering rack in a skip a couple of days ago.. never mind :wonder:

[RainbowFire]

^^^^^ is always the way.

[FellyMagic]

the law of sod in action again..

[poorly_felicia]

the law of sod in action again..

well, swap is done. what a stupid place to put the rear clamp botls though

thank god for my dads 1/2" UJ ! (i dont have one lol and i could not figure out a way of removing the rear bolts without one lol)

[TeflonTom]

yeah it's a right royal pain up the keeshter having to drop the subframe to get the steering rack off

[poorly_felicia]

yeah it's a right royal pain up the keeshter having to drop the subframe to get the steering rack off

Tom, i cannot believe that you of all people do not own a 1/2 inch drive UJ for sockets etc!

i didnt have to drop anythhing with the UJ - was still a pain in the rear though (had to bend all funny)

[TeflonTom]

yes you must have little fingers like japs, it can be done without dropping the subframe on the non-pas models, but access to the fluid unions is really tight on the pas ones

[poorly_felicia]

yes you must have little fingers like japs, it can be done without dropping the subframe on the non-pas models, but access to the fluid unions is really tight on the pas ones

no i got big manly hands thank-you-very-much in all seriousness, it was a pain getting the socket to stay on the rear bolts, even with the UJ, and i was sorta half in the bay with one leg in the air. was a proper comedy look i reckon

the only diffucilt bit now is getting the steering wheel 100% straigh, its ever so slightly cocked to the right, butmoving the wheel one spline is too much. and yes, i did properly centre / align the rack and i got it tracked at the same place i entrust my MR2 with, and it drives straight and proper, its just a little wonkey. hmmmmm - any ideas?

by the way i changed the whole lot - recon rack, new rod ends and rod end locknuts

IDEA : can i correct the wheel by adjusting each rod end by say 1/4 turn and see? as its cocked to the right i think drivers side come in 1/4 and passenger out by 1/4

would that work?

Edited 3 March, 2011 by poorly_felicia

[TeflonTom]

yes just tried to post, wind one end in, and wind one end out but i got a dropped connection so it didn't work i think

[poorly_felicia]

yes just tried to post, wind one end in, and wind one end out but i got a dropped connection so it didn't work i think

cool, thanks! how much tolerance is there you think (im bound to spin the tie rod a little when i undo the locknut) before its re-tracking time again? would 1/2 turn each side difference make no real significant difference or is it tighter than that?