Chaps,

Following the excellent details on this 'ere forum, I've just replaced my OE clutch ('03 vRS) with the VR6/G60 conversion, and first impressions (3 miles so far!) are good - it is an appreciably lighter action and seems to engage nice and smoothly.

The biting point is about 75% of the way down to the carpet, so you only have to lift your foot a little and it moves off. Thing is, this means there's a lot of dead travel at the top of the pedal. I wonder if there's something easy I can do about this - I thought of simply getting under the dash and fixing something to whatever acts as the mechanical stop at the top of pedal travel, so as to make the pedal sit lower down. As I believe it's a hydraulic clutch, I guess it's not as simple as just adjusting a cable!

Any suggestions?

(edit - it occurs to me that I don't necessarily want to adjust the clutch bite, I'd be happy just moving the upper limit of the pedal)

Edited 28 March, 201115 yr by jezash

Wedge a bit of wood above the pedal :thumbup:

I don't think there's much you can do to be honest, there isn't really any adjustment on it. Like you said with it being hydraulic, it's auto-adjusting.

No adjustment possible, as long as there is no air in the system.

the pedal will bite a bit higher after about 300 miles.

My clutch behave the same when was new ,but after 300-350 miles started to bite a bit higher ,just perfect.

I had a poke around last night - experimented with putting an M8 bolt through the bracket which the pedal butts up against with a couple of nuts - quite easy to adjust the end position. but it seemed (perhaps not surprisingly) that significantly reducing the upper stroke of the pedal caused the clutch to slip again under high torque. so I guess I'll leave it like it is. thanks for the above feedback guys.

Was worth a shot.

Oh well, see if it gets any different as the clutch wears in.

Try bleeding clutch up again, sounds like its got air in system

Try bleeding clutch up again, sounds like its got air in system

Use a pressure bleed as if you do the pump pedal method the seal on the slave cylinder collapses.

That's only if you are doing the brakes, and it's the seals in the master cylinder which roll over.

I use a pressure bleeder anyway, makes it a lot lot easier.

This pressure bleeder, is it an easybleed thing that you fill and screw onto the header tank? then connect a 20psi inflated tyre to it and then you open the bleed nipples in turn?

If so I got one of them. Hope it works.

cheers.

ps on topic I have found that with the pedal. I think its the clutch as its stronger and so more preasure acting on the cylinder to disengage. not sure but it might make it a tad better with a BN one on there but tbh Id make do as the price of a new one is a fair bit iirc. Mine is the same. you need to make sure you press it all way to the floor when stopped at lights for a few secs. Now tho I just take it out of gear all together. easier on the clutch.

the sache clutch and G60 had only done 12K when It came out the other car and into mine and it looked bit more worn than the 92k original in mine which tbh looks pritty new.

That's only if you are doing the brakes, and it's the seals in the master cylinder which roll over.

I use a pressure bleeder anyway, makes it a lot lot easier.

Clutch slave cylinder does it too.

can someone post links to threads about the clutch change?

i had a feel of this clutch conversion last night and it felt damm nice