Torque Settings for bolts

[fabdavrav]

Please find some more below from Haynes with a bit more clarity on bolt positions, and additional personal experience notes. I am not liable for any of this (covering my own back)!!!

This is for Fabia MKI.....but as Roomster is based on this, should be the same!!!

PETROL ENGINE GENERAL

Spark plugs = 30Nm (22lbf ft)

Sump drain plug = 30Nm (22lbf ft)

Manual gearbox filler & drain plugs = 25Nm (18lbf ft)

Road wheel bolts = 120Nm (89lbf ft). Tighten up in diagonal cross pattern.

FRONT SUSPENSION:

ARB saddle clamp over bush = 20Nm (15lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. The lower bolt on the drivers side cannot be reached with the wheels in the air as the angle of the drive-shaft covers the bolt, so do this bolt first when undoing, and last when tightening, and jack the wishbone up on this side under the ball-joint to raise the drive-shaft out of the way!!

ARB drop link both ends = 40Nm (30lbf ft) Do not fully tighten top (strut) end until car is fully supported (evenly) on wheels! Always renew the nuts.

Balljoint to lower arm = 20Nm (15lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn These are the three small bolts, only resuse the captive tri-nut plate twice, and reuse the bolts no more than three times!

Balljoint to hub carrier nut = 20Nm (15lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn, Always renew nut.

****************************************************************************

Front pivot bolt for lower wishbone = 70Nm (52lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn.

Lower arm rear mounting bracket plate (console) has 1 large bolt and 2 small ones.

Large = 70Nm (52lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn.

Small = 20Nm (15lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew these bolts.

Front (console) subframe to underbody bolt (the one that you get to through hole on wishbone) = 50Nm (37lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn (Yes I know that this is a lower torque than rear bolt, but logically the rear one takes more force as the suspension tries to go up and back into bodywork, which is why it also has a reinforcing place and a further 2 bolts!!

Steering rack to subframe/console/underbody (four bolts) = 50Nm (37lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn.

Gearbox link to subframe bolt = 40Nm (30lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn.

***If you have had to move/replace console, ARB, etc. I have found this to help setting it up even!! Slacken all the above bolts up to line ******(especially front pivot). Then push the aluminium consoles (you might also have to push the subframe) to rear of car and outwards max diff is about 5mm. Then fully tighten the rear console bracket bolts (6 total) and front console bolts (2). Then tighten (evenly) the front pivot bolts to 1/2 torque (this positions the sub frame), then fully tighten the four steering rack bolts. Now you can go back and fully tighten the front pivot bolts, and the gearbox link to subframe bolt!!!

Suspension strut bottom clamp bolt & nut = 60Nm (44lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew nut.

Piston rod nut to top mounting = 60Nm (44lbf ft) Always renew nut.

Top mounting bolts to bodywork (three of) = 15Nm (11lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew.

Main 12 point hub nut (all older types should be replaced with this type) = 50Nm (37lbf ft)+ 1/8 turn (45 deg. Use once only design!!) Tighten the nut up just enough to fully draw the driveshaft into the bearing unit, refit the wheel (do not fully tighten the five wheel bolts, wheel should not move, and no gap between wheel and hub), then put car on ground, then fully tighten the main hub nut, then fully tighten the wheel bolts in diagonal cross pattern!!

Road wheel bolts = 120Nm (89lbf ft). Tighten up in diagonal cross pattern.

REAR SUSPENSION:

Main pivot bush through bolt & nut = 45Nm (33lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew nut. These should be done up so that they just touch the mounting bracket, then refit wheels etc. and lower car to ground. Open hatch and bounce car up and down from centre of hatch lower lip (this settles the bushes). Now you can fully tighten the bolts up (leave the car on ground!!)

Piston strut to beam bottom mounting bolt & nut = 40Nm (30lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew nut. These should be done up so that they just touch the mounting bracket, then refit wheels etc. and lower car to ground. Open hatch and bounce car up and down from centre of hatch lower lip (this settles the bushes in piston mounting). Now you can fully tighten the bolts up (leave the car on ground!!)

Piston rod nut to top mounting = 25Nm (18lbf ft)

Top mounting bracket to bodywork bolts(two of) = 30Nm (22lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew.

Stub axle bolts (four off) = 30Nm (22lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew.

Main 12 point hub nut = 70Nm (52lbf ft)+ 1/12 turn (30 deg). Always renew. This one doesn't need car to be on ground etc. like front one!!

Road wheel bolts = 120Nm (89lbf ft). Tighten up in diagonal cross pattern.

FRONT BRAKES:

Guide pin bolts for FSII & FSIII calipers = 28Nm (21lbf ft). Always copper grease for bushes and use "blue" threadlock on threads!

Guide pin bolts for C54-II caliper = 30Nm (22lbf ft). Always renew.

Mounting bracket bolts for C54-II caliper = 125Nm (92lbf ft).

Brake disc splash shield bolts = 10Nm (7lbf ft).

Brake disc = none given, older VW used to state low value of around 10Nm (7lbf ft).

REAR DISC BRAKES:

Guide pin bolts = 35Nm (26lbf ft). These need to be counter held to stop rotation and "blue" threadlock on threads.

Mounting bracket bolts = 30Nm (22lbf ft)+ 1/12 turn (30 deg), and "blue" threadlock on threads.

Brake disc = none given, older VW used to state low value of around 10Nm (7lbf ft).

DIESEL ENGINE MOUNTINGS INC. VRS!

Drivers side engine mounting to;

Engine = 30Nm (22lbf ft) + 1/4 turn

Body = 20Nm (15lbf ft) + 1/4 turn

Centre nut = 40Nm (30lft ft) + 1/4 turn

Passenger side mounting to;

Transmission = 40Nm (30lft ft) + 1/4 turn

Body = 50Nm (37lbf ft) + 1/4 turn

Rear torque arm to;

Subframe = 40Nm (30lft ft) + 1/4 turn

Transmission = 30Nm (22lbf ft) + 1/4 turn

1.4lt 16v PETROL ENGINE MOUNTINGS

Drivers side engine mounting to;

Engine = 20Nm (15lbf ft) + 1/4 turn

Body = 30Nm (22lbf ft) + 1/4 turn

Passenger side mounting to;

Transmission = 40Nm (30lft ft) + 1/4 turn

Body = 50Nm (37lbf ft) + 1/4 turn

Rear torque arm to;

Subframe = 40Nm (30lft ft) + 1/4 turn

Transmission = 30Nm (22lbf ft) + 1/4 turn

Edited 10 May, 2011 by fabdavrav

[hertsnminds]

The front axel of a Roomster is based on the Fabia but the rear axel is from the Octavia. The engines were all updated when the Fabia MkII was so shouldn't the settings reflect the MkII Fabia not the MkI ?

[fabdavrav]

The front axel of a Roomster is based on the Fabia but the rear axel is from the Octavia. The engines were all updated when the Fabia MkII was so shouldn't the settings reflect the MkII Fabia not the MkI ?

As I state at the begining of the post "this is a guide written for Fabia MK1"

VAG used the same sub-frames/platforms etc from the MK1 Fabia for the MKII Fabia, with only minor improvments!

SuperPro list the same no. bushes for the Fabia MkI & MKII, which are also listed as the same for the Roomster MKI & MKII

The console bush on a MKI Fabia is being replaced/upgraded by the Skoda Dealerships with the bush from a 4x4 Octavia estate...and the Rear beam axle bush on the Fabia is the same as a MKIV Golf...which is the same as an Octavia...things apply across the whole VAG range of cars alot more than you think!!

Edited 22 April, 2011 by fabdavrav

[Black_Thunder]

On ‎21‎/‎04‎/‎2011 at 14:44, fabdavrav said:

Please find some more below from Haynes with a bit more clarity on bolt positions, and additional personal experience notes. I am not liable for any of this (covering my own back)!!!

This is for Fabia MKI.....but as Roomster is based on this, should be the same!!!

PETROL ENGINE GENERAL

Spark plugs = 30Nm (22lbf ft)

Sump drain plug = 30Nm (22lbf ft)

Road wheel bolts = 120Nm (89lbf ft). Tighten up in diagonal cross pattern.

 

FRONT BRAKES:

Guide pin bolts for FSII & FSIII calipers = 28Nm (21lbf ft). Always copper grease for bushes and use "blue" threadlock on threads!

 

NEVER use copper grease on any rubber component!  Copper grease is not a 'grease', in the traditional sense of being a lubricant.  Copper grease is actually an anti-seize compound, designed for high temperature applications - and should only be used on metal-to-metal surfaces.  Most copper greases are actually an abrasive, and if used on constantly sliding surfaces, will cause rapid wear - especially on rubber bush sleeves on brake callipers.  Just use the correct red-coloured 'RubberLube' brake grease on rubber calliper bushes (decent motor factors will stock this, though refuse anything from the Comma brand).  If you can't get hold of RubberLube, then any conventional silicone grease will do, though be aware that Rocol silicone grease has a high NLGI rating, so could potentially make the slides a little sluggish.  95% of drivers probably would not realise, though!

 

Copper grease CAN be used on spark plug threads, and also on roadwheel bolts - on both threads, and the taper or conical bolt-to-wheel interface.  Anti-seize compound is strongly recommended on aluminium (or magnesium) alloy roadwheels - including hub-centre, and mounting faces.

 

As for the sump drain plug, because these now have an integrated and non-removable sealing washer, the entire sump should be replaced.  Though many stealers often fail to replace it.