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trolley jack points

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By the time i got to this last night it was pitch black and subzero, so not pics of me jacking the car up lol..

I did however take some pics in the garage so you can see the unit a bit better:

8454723746_3b514974af.jpg

PROTECH Products Sidelift Jack Pad - MODEL #1007 by lotus-gt, on Flickr

Underside:

8454723646_713213101e.jpg

PROTECH Products Sidelift Jack Pad - MODEL #1007 by lotus-gt, on Flickr

Size:

8453627369_5a0d487e1d.jpg

PROTECH Products Sidelift Jack Pad - MODEL #1007 by lotus-gt, on Flickr

On my trolley jack:

8453624979_7e4f5f52c9.jpg

PROTECH Products Sidelift Jack Pad - MODEL #1007 by lotus-gt, on Flickr

As you can see the "slots" are pretty deep, which means no weight is carried by the seam itself - the weight of the vehicle is held by the sill either side of the seam. The slot is sized such that there is no potential for movement once the pad is located.

:)

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  • Hopefully this will help....

  • Just out of interest, does anyone know whether the jacking/lifting points on the Mk2 Octavia are the same as the Mk1? Reason I ask is because I'm having the wheels on my car resprayed (colour change

  • I bought some inch thick rubber blocks off ebay that I use between the trolley jack and the sills. Never had any problems, except the one sill that was already mangled when I bought the car. I have he

Looks good. Reckon we could get some of those machined up pretty easily, if we find the right place :)

Not sure about that adaptor. The jacking point is behind the lip and not on both sides of the lip, you need to ensure the weight of the car is taken behind/inside the lip. Therefore the surface area of the adaptor that is actually presented to the jacking point is quite small. Also, you will sometimes find that the jacking point side inside the lip is not level with the side outside of the lip. The jacking point side can be further up (it was on my vRS). This means that when you put that adaptor under it it will be lifting the weight of the car on the side outside of the lip. Not very well explained but I know what I mean!

I know from experience as I had something very similar machined for me and it didn't really work very well. I just use a block of wood now.

That's the guy I got my blocks from.

It would seem that I have a mangled rear n/s sill courtesy of a previous owner/garage, and I am also nervy about jacking up "modern" cars, whereas previously I used to do all kinds of maintenance using trolley jacks/axle stands/ramps.

Some of the tips/photos in this thread are really helpful.

Cheers guys.

I got such a sticker, loose, with the documentation. Always wondered where to stick it.

Oooh matron.

Not sure about that adaptor. The jacking point is behind the lip and not on both sides of the lip, you need to ensure the weight of the car is taken behind/inside the lip. Therefore the surface area of the adaptor that is actually presented to the jacking point is quite small. Also, you will sometimes find that the jacking point side inside the lip is not level with the side outside of the lip. The jacking point side can be further up (it was on my vRS). This means that when you put that adaptor under it it will be lifting the weight of the car on the side outside of the lip. Not very well explained but I know what I mean!

I know from experience as I had something very similar machined for me and it didn't really work very well. I just use a block of wood now.

I used a solid block of oak with a groove cut in it. Never had any problem with the jack, the block or the seam.

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