Here I am again with a new twist on the old problem.

Since I replaced the plugs and leads the problems went away until one day I was stuck in traffic and the engine stalled and wouldn't restart until an hour later when it had cooled right down.

I had suspected that the coil pack was defective since plugs, leads and coil packs are all hand in hand so I went ahead and ordered a new pattern coilpack which I replaced.

The car seemed to run smoother until the weekend when I was again in traffic and felt the engine lurch and CEL came on, managed to catch it before it stalled and was almost home when it lost power and the CEL started flashing (never done this before).

I scanned the engine for DTC's and got this:

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.1

Monday, 16 May 2011, 14:01:32.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 01: Engine Labels: 036-906-034-APE.LBL

Controller: 036 906 034 BK

Component: MARELLI 4LV 3335

Coding: 00071

Shop #: WSC 23018

VCID: 5CCB1773DF25

TMBND46Y2Y3061827 SKZ7Z0Y0527718

8 Faults Found:

16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

P0300 - 35-00 - -

16685 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

P0301 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate

16687 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

P0303 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate

16688 - Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected

P0304 - 35-00 - -

16684 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

P0300 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate

16685 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

P0301 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate

16688 - Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected

P0304 - 35-00 - -

16786 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

P0402 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate

Readiness: 0000 0000

Does anyone have any idea what is going on here please, the new coil pack seems to have made it worse after a promising start.

Please, only reply if you have useful experience with this type of problem.

Is yours the engine with the seperate coilpacks on each cylinder?

You have misfires on all cylinders as shown by your fault codes above.

Only use oem coilpacks from my experience but it looks like you have a different issue than a faulty coilpack. Random multiple misfires usually suggest that a fault is appearing that is triggering the ecu to try and adjust the timing to offset something else and it's going out of range too far and stalling your car.

Cleaning the TB and recalibrating would be a good start and check all your earth points. Also make sure your brake light switch isn't faulty.

Any other faults on the car or was that all?

^^^^^^^ +1

Then run an ecu reset as per my post;

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/201016-how-to-reset-the-engine-ecu/

That should help!!

My engine has a single coilpack and separate leads as stated.

I already did the the TB clean and adaptation a couple of months ago.

This only seems to happen when the engine reaches the temperature where the fans cut in while driving, doesn't happen if the engine reaches that same temperature while idling unattended.

Could the brake light switch be causing this problem?

*Bump

Help if you can please.

Any other faults in the car now?

I presume you've changed the temperature sensor? Would seem logical as problems are related to the engine being hot. Also worth cleaning the EGR system. Try some fuel additive to clean the injectors. Also worth cleaning the crankcase breather hose with some carb cleaner. Did the plugs you took out look like you'd been burning oil? Is the oil consumption ok?

Car has no faults other than the above.

Have cleaned EGR valve, breather is clear, oil consumption is mild and consistent with glazed bores.

Temperature sensor, plugs, leads and coilpack are all new. Car is run only on high octane unleaded.

Can this multiple misfire be caused by the cam position sensor failing?

P0402 -your EGR valve might be sticky, even if it was cleaned, might need changing

Thank you, I didn't notice that code hiding down there.

I did clean it thoroughly but it may well be faulty.

Could it cause misfires on all four cylinders like this?

As I remember it can, if it got stuck open at idle. Will have rough idle and multiple misfires on all cylinders.

Thanks hap, I think you may be on to something with that.

New EGR valve on order.

What is it with VAG cars? As soon as they hit 10 years old they start to stick their legs in the air for the dumbest of reasons.

Now I only have to worry about whether to colour code my glovebox catch and make sure all the kool kiddies approve of my choice of alloys. Decisions, decisions

What is it with VAG cars? As soon as they hit 10 years old they start to stick their legs in the air for the dumbest of reasons.

Now I only have to worry about whether to colour code my glovebox catch and make sure all the kool kiddies approve of my choice of alloys. Decisions, decisions

Most cars these days I swear have a self detonate programme that hits later on in life!!! Trouble is that most previous owners never really looked after this engine properly...(super unleaded fuel...best oil.."driving it".....etc.)..so creating problems later on!!

P.S. I swapped my brakelight switch (quick diy job) for a new one just to make sure.....also think I'll clean my ERG valve later on this year.....and get a new crankcase breather filter as I cleaned it a few years ago...but a right pig to do!!

Edited 20 May, 201115 yr by fabdavrav

Ok,

Replaced the EGR valve, reset the ECU while I was working on it by disco'ing the battery.

Put it all back together, reconnected the battery, started and allowed it to tick over for half an hour.

Stopped engine reset clock, stereo, electric windows etc.

Went for a short drive, all ok, parked up, plugged in VCDS and reset all the fault codes, CEL went out and has not yet returned. Car feels fluffy but should improve as ECU re-learns it's best settings.

Acid test comes Monday when I must drive 30 miles across country.

Wish me luck, I'm terrified, this is comfortably THE MOST unreliable car I have ever owned and I'll be getting shot as soon as I can afford to replace it. Bear in mind mine is a 67K minter with FSH, god alone knows what they're like if neglected!

VAG should be heartily ashamed of themselves. Japanese for me from now on.

Bear in mind mine is a 67K minter with FSH, god alone knows what they're like if neglected!

VAG should be heartily ashamed of themselves. Japanese for me from now on.

I don't have a FSH on my car (I bought it new) only have invoices from dealer for timing belts/pumps etc.....and only the first 2yrs of "stamps".....but so far in 10yrs of having it it has not let me down.....but I look after it much more than the "services"....a full FSH doesn't meen a "mint" car in terms of mechanics...driving style and petrol type can really screw this engine!!!

And Jap cars....hhhmmmmmm.......my mates had Mitsu' FTO and the rare "evo"? version, and a highly tunned Subaru P1 (330bhp)........the money he spent!! .....all were "mint" cars.......P1 he got rid of....major engine rebuild required in the end.....6months after getting the gearbox rebuilt!!! (Known Subaru problem)....now drives a small Sukuki Swift (Sport version)....having much more fun....also wishes he never sold his Ford Puma 1.7lt..as this was good!

You have changed a lot of parts to be sure, doesn't make it unreliable though when the fault was just one maybe two components.

Skoda Fabia is the 2nd most unreliable car on the road according to warranty direct. It's a funny one, always do fantastic on the JD Power survey. My furby was a fab car.

You have changed a lot of parts to be sure, doesn't make it unreliable though when the fault was just one maybe two components.

I agree with you in principle, however what DOES make it so unreliable is the simple truth that when I drive the car I'm never entirely sure if it's going to actually get me where I want to go, and if it does, whether it's actually going to get me home or not!

My issue is not with the actual component failures, it's with the engine management software which renders the car completely undriveable and fails to correctly report the fault so it can be fixed.

All the parts I have changed had failed or were failing, all contributed in some way to each others downfall causing a 'failure cascade', the spark plug erosion from excessively lean mixtures caused by failing EGR valve, the plug leads due to age and failing plugs, the coil pack due to age and failing leads, NONE of these parts are under the watchful eye of the ECU and replacing all of them improved the symptoms incrementally. The temperature sensor was simply elderly and, again, since it's measurements had not fallen outside the range of what the ECU considered reasonable, was not being reported. The EGR valve seems to have been at the root of all the problems and despite stripping and cleaning was clearly failing intermittently.

I'm not out of the woods yet, I still don't trust the MAP, Cam or Crank position sensors.

We'll see on Monday. Going to give it a good wash and hoover out this weekend.

Purely for the forums' general enlightenment, when a professional garage says to you:

"It's the throttle body" or "It's the ECU"

What they are actually saying is:

"I haven't got a clue what's wrong with it, but if you'll agree in principle to spend £500 (throttle body) or £1000 (ECU) I'll get it sorted somehow, might take a while though"

There's nothing wrong with this, but bear in mind that you're paying for his training time on your vehicle and it's probably the EGR valve anyway

Almost speechless with disbelief, car behaved flawlessly yesterday, went for a 25 mile round trip and it was just perfect.

Jumped in this morning to pop up the road for some milk and as soon as I restarted it to drive the half a mile back from the shop the EPC and CEL lights came on together and the engine lost all power and wouldn't rev past 2400 rpm with a really lumpy tickover around 1100 rpm.

This car is demonically possessed and I'm tempted to spiritually cleanse it with a spare can of petrol and a match.

Whatever will the ECU say this time I wonder, it MUST be running out of excuses by now!

Have you had a compression check to check for piston ring/wear issues? Sounds really unlucky. I bought mine nearly four years ago and I agree with the poor reliability, I easily spent the purchase price on repairs within the first year or so, many of the faults being common (i.e. design flaws). To be fair though I'm on top of things now and with looking after it carefully the car is running pretty well. I certainly agree with the going Japanese sentiments. Comparing a family hatchback to a tuned Japanese sports car is not a fair comparison.

tag1,

Thanks for the input, no I haven't bothered doing a compression check since there's nothing mechanically wrong with the car.

This is all down to electronic gremlins and is, therefore, a damned bughunt.

I swear you've mentioned this before in a previous thread and I explained that bore glazing was not an issue for me since my oil consumption was low and my plugs clean.

I hate to sound like a stuck record, but the 'ring issue' is a red herring sir.

VCDS reported an intermittent fault with the throttle valve so I reset it and all was well.

I have to assume that I'm chasing my tail with this car and will simply have to drive everywhere with my laptop in the boot so I can reset it if it freaks out.

Hope it settles down this week with regular use, we shall see.