CRANK CASE SENSOR 23.00 OR IGNITION SWITCH , BUT SENSOR FIRST PER RAC MECHANIC --- SO ALL GOOD

Edited 17 June, 201115 yr by Papabear

First of all, you need to make sure that the drain holes under the plenum covers are clear. ECUs and water don't mix

It could be as simple as a faulty starter lockout relay. It may seem an odd question, but are the reversing lights working OK?

What are the engine and gearbox codes? There will be on a label in the service book or under the carpet in the boot.

CRANK SENSOR-- per RAC

Edited 17 June, 201115 yr by Papabear

The starter lockout relay is a module that also handles the REVERSING LIGHTS for a car with an auto box. Just because the reversing lights are working doesn't mean the relay is OK, but if they were not it would confirm the relay is faulty. Did you check the reversing lights?

It is important to know the gearbox code. On the label, you should see DLR, DMN, DSD or ECS.

The plenum covers are the panels underneath the windscreen where the wipers pass through. Under the covers there are drains. If these become blocked the plenum chamber can fill with water.

PLEASE SEE ABOVE

Edited 17 June, 201115 yr by Papabear

IIRC, to move the selector out of park, you need to press on the brake pedal. The brake pedal switch has two circuits, one of which goes to the ECU. The ECU/gearbox controller control the lock solenoid on the selector. So a faulty brake pedal switch could be the cause of the failure to get out of Park.

Have you tried starting the car in both Park and Neutral? The starter lockout is disabled when the selector is in park or neutral. The signal comes directly from the gearbox controller.

Even though the ECU is dry now, some of the ECU pins or some of the connectors in the electrical box (also under the plenum covers - below the ECU). You really do need to check.

I'll have a look at my notes when I get into work tomorrow.

PLEASE SEE ABOVE

Edited 17 June, 201115 yr by Papabear

When I've looked at my notes, I can give you some simple tests to pinpoint the fault. In that way, you will only have to replace the part that's faulty.

Fantastic,very gentlemanly of you !!!!

The starter lockout relay is in position 11 on the relay plate above the pedals. It should be labeled 175 or may have the part number 3A0 927 181.

Pin 6 on this relay comes from the ignition switch (thin red/black wire). You should see a voltage when the key is in the start position

Pin 3 on this relay comes from the gearbox PN switch (red/grey wire). You should see a change in the voltage when you move the gear selector out of Park/Neutral to any other position.

Pin 8 on this relay goes to the starter (thick red/black wire). You should see a voltage when the key is in the start position.

To see how to get at the relay plate, take a look at post #15 in http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/177453-leaking-rear-washer-pipe-might-have-caused-electrical-damage/

Post your findings when you have done the tests

PLEASE SEE ABOVE

Edited 17 June, 201115 yr by Papabear

Yes you need a multimeter. Everything is centred on Relay 175. As for a schematic, you have everything you need to draw one. It really is just a wire from the ignition switch to relay 175, a wire from the gearbox to relay 175 and a wire to the starter solenoid.

I don't normally guess which bits to replace - I diagnose the fault. Having said that, replacing relay 175 may make sense if you are not confident doing the tests.

PLEASE SEE ABOVE

Edited 17 June, 201115 yr by Papabear

see post #10 above

PLEASE SEE ABOVE

Edited 17 June, 201115 yr by Papabear

Above the pedals, behind the lower dash panel. You will have to remove a trim panel. Follow the link in post #10.