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2 questions: boost and oil

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Spent few hours in a garage today (fitted Oet's RARB, few other things) and few things i'm not too sure about on my MK1 octy vrs:

1) had to pour in Mobil 1 (fully synthetic 0-40) oil as forgot to bring my new oil and realized that only after taking oil sump for changing oil pickup pipe). Is it ok or should I change it for semi 10-40?

2) saw my mate's new toy (snap-on solus scanner). connected it and went for a test drive results were this:

Engine Load: 120%

Air charger pressure: 1640mbar (equals to 1.6BAR)

and this was followed by P1297 error code (Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)

My car is stock AFAIK, so pretty sure it's impossible to have 1.6BAR even with the most aggressive remap on K03s. Car pulls ok in first and second, third is still ok, last two gears - a little dumb maybe and turbo is very loud i'd say. Checked pipes - no splits. Any ideas why does it think i've got 1.6BAR and a leak, instead of 0.7BAR (as that's what it should be)?

p.s. luckily i managed to change oil pickup pipe... 107k on the clock and was never changed, nearly blocked

fxcam1308401204693.jpg

Edited by mindaugas

To be honest, the oil you have used is percect anyway. Using semi 10w40 is a big no no on the 1.8t due to the high temperature turbo.

As for the boost, it sounds like the car is mapped to me, and it has a boost leak.

  • Author

done 22k miles on semi-synth 10-40 and still running. Reading http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=95412.0 at the moment and starting to get confused... so which oil is the best then?

Is there an easy way to find out if it is remapped? everything is stock (recirc valve, hoses, etc), does not look like someone messed around with it.

You have to subtract 1013mbar (atmospheric pressure) so you've only got 0.6 bar boost,which sounds about right if you have a slight boost leak.

Doh, forgot that part!!

Does sound like it's standard then, but with a boost leak, or a split dv.

Just out of interest, how did you find changing the pickup? I've got a new one to fit on mine, and think it's going to be easy.

  • Author

so without boost leak it should be 0.7 bar right?

as for pick up pipe - pretty straight forward. drain oil, remove sump, then two bolts and your pipe is off. clean the sump (as you will have some **** in it), remove old sealant from the edge of the sumo, clean it it properly (i used a little polishing machine), add sealant, bolt sump back, give it 30mins for the sealant to settle down, carry on with oil filter etc

no point changing the oil pick up, just give it a clean with some carb cleaner, it's just a gauze after all

I've got it now, so might as well. :dull:

I'll keep the old one for next time though.

  • Author

no point changing the oil pick up, just give it a clean with some carb cleaner, it's just a gauze after all

condoms could be washed and re-used as well lol

jokes aside, you can clean old one and put it back (just get another O ring), but if you don't have carb / brake cleaner on hand then it's pretty much the same price as I paid £8 i think for brand new pipe (got it from skoda). do it once and forget as i don't think many VRSes will manage to get 200k on the clock :)

Doh, forgot that part!!

Does sound like it's standard then, but with a boost leak, or a split dv.

Just out of interest, how did you find changing the pickup? I've got a new one to fit on mine, and think it's going to be easy.

There is 2 bolts on the sump next to the gearbox that are a pig to get too make sure you have a very very slim 10mm socket or a long allen socket, before you drain the oil and remove the rest of the sump bolts.(Speaking from experienceemoticon-0114-dull.gif)

Mine has been running 0w40 Mobil 4 for 4-5 years with no issues, doesn't use any.

22k on semi synth? Christ - Im hoping that includes some changes.

Edited by Liverpool-Lad

  • Author

Mine has been running 0w40 Mobil 4 for 4-5 years with no issues, doesn't use any.

22k on semi synth? Christ - Im hoping that includes some changes.

lol

i meant 22k in total as at that time i wasn't aware of the fact that semi synth is a big no no. was changing every 5-6k and had no issues as well.

condoms could be washed and re-used as well lol

jokes aside, you can clean old one and put it back (just get another O ring), but if you don't have carb / brake cleaner on hand then it's pretty much the same price as I paid £8 i think for brand new pipe (got it from skoda). do it once and forget as i don't think many VRSes will manage to get 200k on the clock :)

You mention mileage: :D Bet this one has used a lot of fuel in it's time.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2002-SKODA-OCTAVIA-VRS-RS-BLACK-1-8T-VGC-/110645916005?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item19c302b165

Not sure how many more there are with that sort on. I guess there will be a few.

Using semi 10w40 is a big no no on the 1.8t due to the high temperature turbo.

Please can you elaborate, i thought so long as it is the correct vw spec then a 10w/40 was completely fine as a regular fixed interval oil?

Please can you elaborate, i thought so long as it is the correct vw spec then a 10w/40 was completely fine as a regular fixed interval oil?

Semi synthetic oil is what caused all the sludge problems over in the states. Owners were taking their 1.8t's to Jiffy lube etc, and having the oil changed with cheap oil. It's OK on old pushrod V8's, but not on the 1.8t. The turbo runs especially hot, and semi synth oil, which wasn't designed for these temperatures can block the oil lines, causing turbo failure.

BTW, there is nothing wrong with 10w40 oil, it's just semi synthetic oil you can't use. 5w40 is probably better, as it isn't as thick when cold, so will flow easier.

Sorry to hijack the thread but is that rule for not putting semi synthetic in the 1.8t the same for the 1.9 tdi ? As far as i know mine has been given semi synthetic since i've had it, now its on 130k don't fancy putting any more pressure on the engine than i have to.

Regards Dave

I think it's fine, as long as it's not a PD engine, then you need PD specific oil.

I think it's fine, as long as it's not a PD engine, then you need PD specific oil.

No, its not a pd engine, thanks for the speedy reply :thumbup:

Regards dave

Semi synthetic oil is what caused all the sludge problems over in the states. Owners were taking their 1.8t's to Jiffy lube etc, and having the oil changed with cheap oil. It's OK on old pushrod V8's, but not on the 1.8t. The turbo runs especially hot, and semi synth oil, which wasn't designed for these temperatures can block the oil lines, causing turbo failure.

BTW, there is nothing wrong with 10w40 oil, it's just semi synthetic oil you can't use. 5w40 is probably better, as it isn't as thick when cold, so will flow easier.

Thanks.

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