Hello, this is my first add so please bare with me. I have recently bought skoda Fabia tdi. feels very responsive for a 100bhp model. I am encountering problem when I speed upto 60/70 mph at which point the power cuts out and I can not increase speed above 60/70 mph also the problem is consistent throughout the rev range once I get to this speed and encounter this problem. I can no longer accelerate at any speed. To resolve the problem I have to switch off and restart the car and whollah the power is back throughout, only to hit the same speed of 60/70 mph when guess what it cuts out again. I am very desperate to resolve this problem if any one has any knowledge regarding this matter please help I would sincerely appreciate any and all advice at this stage.

Many thanks for reading.

Moonsq.

It'll be your turbo. More specifically I think this is usually a sticky VNT mechanism. I believe this can be cleaned up(?), but a dealer and probably most garages will replace the turbo.

Had the same thing on my parents - 1.9 100bhp model.

Sounds like limp mode engaging. Given that resetting the engine clears it, it sounds like the turbo (same symptoms as my relatives had when the turbo in their 2.0TDi Octavia went).

If you get it fault-scanned after it going into "limp", you'll probably find there's an overboost code. It could be that the turbo is a bit "sooty" causing the variable vanes to stick, and needs cleaning - Innotec make a cleaner (although I don't know how good it is/if it works). An "Italian tune-up" is also said to help clear it out, although it sounds like it might be a bit past that point?

If the turbo is goosed, an OEM one is in the region of £750 + VAT on service-exchange. :(

I scan cars all the time and it's actually more often the vac system or egr problem than the turbo. Check all your vac hoses and make sure they aren't frayed or split etc. Also clean out the egr valve and intake manifold and see how it goes after that.

Worst case scenario, you might have to clean your turbo out.

Get the car scanned and see what the exact fault and code is before doing any major work.

I scan cars all the time and it's actually more often the vac system or egr problem than the turbo. Check all your vac hoses and make sure they aren't frayed or split etc. Also clean out the egr valve and intake manifold and see how it goes after that.

Worst case scenario, you might have to clean your turbo out.

Get the car scanned and see what the exact fault and code is before doing any major work.

That's interesting and makes sense I've never heard of anyone say it was those.

I scan cars all the time and it's actually more often the vac system or egr problem than the turbo. Check all your vac hoses and make sure they aren't frayed or split etc. Also clean out the egr valve and intake manifold and see how it goes after that.

Worst case scenario, you might have to clean your turbo out.

Get the car scanned and see what the exact fault and code is before doing any major work.

Will have to beat that in mind. Parents Octavia exhibited the same symptoms as the OP (plus an overboost error), and the supplying main dealer diagnosed it as a failed turbo and replaced it under warranty ...

Main dealers will diagnose it as a failed turbo basically every time. A failed turbo is a fairly obvious thing to spot. The shaft will have loads of play and there will be oil in the exhaust and in the intercooler.

Cleaning out the VNT mechanism is a good way of ensuring you don't get a sticky vnt mechanism. There's a few videos on youtube and a few guides on the net showing how it's done. It's the sort of job that takes a while but will save you splashing out £500+ on getting a new turbo and accessories and getting it all fitted.

Edited 20 June, 201114 yr by Bazmcc

Main dealers will diagnose it as a failed turbo basically every time.

Agreed - it's simply less effort and more profitable for them, rather than cleaning one up. With my parents Octavia, it went into limp mode a couple of times, as the OP's one has, and I thought it was the turbo being sooted-up, then one of the management lights came on and the turbo cut out completely (no turbo noise, no boost - exactly like driving an "old-fashioned diesel"). Still, not really sure if getting a free new turbo is a bad thing, if it were just sooted-up!

Hello, first of all thank you to every one who has taken the time to reply I really appreciate all the advice. Today I was advised to go and see someone about scanning the fabia. I went to VOLKSRANGER in birmingham as I live near it. After running a diagnostics I had many fault codes but one in particular was the fault code with the MAP SENSOR so I will buy it/ order it tomorrow and get it fitted and take it from there. They also found other fault codes which concerned the convenience control unit and explained why my passenger window was not operating so I guess I better get that while im at it. I will keep you updated as soon as I have fitted the new MAP SENSOR i will blog the news good or bad.

Once again Thanks for the help I wish this Map sensor is the answer to my problems as a new Turbo is F FRIGHTENING.

cheers and GOD bless.

Moonsq.

had a MAP sensor fail on my octavia at 120k, and my roomster at 135k (skoda do an recon / exchange for about £100, or new for about £230),easy to change

also worth looking at the pipe from the black valve block on the drivers side inner wing (unit with 7-8 pipes coming out) to the turbo, as had that fail and gave similar fault and about £35 and 30 minutes to change

Out of the dozens of cars I've scanned I don't think I've seen a map sensor fail yet. It's an easy test to check if it's working and reading correctly and if you're assuming it isn't working just because of a fault code then it's a bad assumption to make. Usually if the map sensor is reporting boost pressure faults then it's doing it's job perfectly well.

Your prices for the map sensor are WAY WAY out. They're about £45.

Changes of the map sensor being faulty and causing your limp mode is minimal.

Out of the dozens of cars I've scanned I don't think I've seen a map sensor fail yet. It's an easy test to check if it's working and reading correctly and if you're assuming it isn't working just because of a fault code then it's a bad assumption to make. Usually if the map sensor is reporting boost pressure faults then it's doing it's job perfectly well.

Your prices for the map sensor are WAY WAY out. They're about £45.

Changes of the map sensor being faulty and causing your limp mode is minimal.

those are the skoda stealer prices, you can get them cheaper elsewhere

Main dealers will diagnose it as a failed turbo basically every time. A failed turbo is a fairly obvious thing to spot. The shaft will have loads of play and there will be oil in the exhaust and in the intercooler.

Cleaning out the VNT mechanism is a good way of ensuring you don't get a sticky vnt mechanism. There's a few videos on youtube and a few guides on the net showing how it's done. It's the sort of job that takes a while but will save you splashing out £500+ on getting a new turbo and accessories and getting it all fitted.

I would only diagnose a turbo if that is the cause, of course I check EGR system and all the vacuum lines, still doesn't change the fact that people poodle around in their cars and the VNT mech soots up and sticks. The only option we have is to replace the turbo as we have to warranty our work for 12 months minimum.

Last couple I have taken apart out of interest before they have gone back exchange have been quite stuck yet actuator moved what would appear quite normally on test with a mitivac. Also seeing a lot of turbine damage with ends being pitted and missing, I think it's just poor quality metal used.

I was advised to clean my last turbo, although all that accomplished was it allowed the turbo to run properly for a day or two before it went bang, and 700 quid for a replacement.

Im now having the same problem as the OP with a new, 3000 mile old turbo. Ive been advised to get it scanned with the possibility of it being the N75 valve, or the EGR.

Another thing is Ive seen people get around this problem by blocking off the EGR, and even one person who claimed he changed his fuel filter, can anyone confirm either of these?

Edited 21 June, 201114 yr by InFus1on

Fuel filter will make no difference whatsoever.

I've seen limp mode caused dozens of times by a faulty egr system so the first thing I usually do to any tdis I've worked on it test all the valves with ones I know are working and double check all the vac lines. If possible it's best just to fit and egr delete kit, then you have no more problems.

bluecar1 - That £45 price is straight from the dealer.

@Bazmcc: Ye I had a feeling he was talking out of his bottom when I first read about the whole fuel filter thing.

I think Ill look into an EGR delete kit, cant be too expensive Im sure

EGR can cause limp home as the EGR valve acts as a waste gate, I would expect to see an under boost fault rather than an over boost fault.

But lack of power faults can be fairly varied now these cars are getting older, see quite a fuel tandem pump delivery pipes collapsing and starving the pump of fuel, but this won't reset with an ignition cycle.

@Bazmcc: Ye I had a feeling he was talking out of his bottom when I first read about the whole fuel filter thing.

I think Ill look into an EGR delete kit, cant be too expensive Im sure

You will need a remap though to run the EGR delete.

You will need a remap though to run the EGR delete.

I didnt actually mean EGR delete, I meant just the blanking kit, I assume this would still solve the problem.

With tandem pump problems I've found is the gasket failure and therefore the loss of vacuum from the brake servo pipe (where the vac pipe is plugged in), it can then cause further problems in the N75, N239 and N18.

But they can be a nightmare when they airlock too.

What I've noticed is that a faulty N75 or a fault in a certain pipe (can't remember which) will cause underboost errors. Alternatively the other vac line can cause the overboost ones.

Here's a great article on ukmkivs with a load of procedures to suss out how to stop overboost and turbo problems.

http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/p/353504/2444113.aspx

I didnt actually mean EGR delete, I meant just the blanking kit, I assume this would still solve the problem.

They're both the same thing. With the Newer EDC16 ECUs the software logs a fault and shows the check engine light. It needs to be taken out of the software to stop it coming on.

They're both the same thing. With the Newer EDC16 ECUs the software logs a fault and shows the check engine light. It needs to be taken out of the software to stop it coming on.

Really? I read just a few minutes ago that the EGR delete requires the ASV wiring to be removed, which brings up the light, but the blanking kit doesn't adjust the wiring, as it still keeps the ASV enabled, so no light.

It was in a Jabbasport thread about this very subject.

I read recently that Jabba had mapped a light out of a car and then said they couldn't do it on another car which was identical so there are a few confusing bits of information. Even with an EGR delete kit, the entire wiring and valves etc can still be left connected but just blocked off at the appropriate points.

The ASV will be done away with obviously if the pipe is removed. But you can just go with a blanking plate on the exhaust manifold too and keep the main guts of the system there. But as far as I know it throws the same fault codes on certain ecus. Personally, I prefer to rip the whole system out.