I had recently done a complete tyre/wheel check due to continuous vibrations felt in steering wheel and front/rear seats,doors. Subsequently I had a complete wheel balancing( which was not far out enough to give those symptoms, as the fitter said) and a wheel tracking (which was out by 0.8 ). Took it out for a test to discover that this operation made no difference to my problem.

I took the car to mechanic who change anti-roll bar bushes front/rear as well as rear drop links (front ones were ok). I have also had both rear wheel barrings replaced, and then tested the car again.

Although there is an improvement ( steering wheel vibrations diminished), while driving, there is still vibration felt through the entire car.

I would much apreciate if anyone could help with some advice.

Buckled wheel or flat spot on tyre?

Warped brake disc?

Try swapping the wheels front to back to see if the problem moves to the rear of the car.

As for the brake disc - can you feel a pulse through the pedal when braking reasonably hard from motorway speeds?

Does the vibration come in at a certain speed or is it there at all speeds?

Hi Andy,

Thanks for your reply; I have recently swapped back -to-front wheels to keep them uniformly worn, but the problem was there even before swapping. I have checked for any wheel damage,but nothing can be seen other then small scratches,no bends however. As for the brake discs, just had them replaced with new, about 3000 miles ago, checked them and it looks all uniformely worn,nothing unusual. I cannot think of anything else...

Hello!

I have the same problem like you (vibrating seats, chassis, sunvisors) except the steering wheel vibration. I have balanced my wheels about four times, aligned the suspension two times (at front and at rear too)I borrowed complete wheels from my friend and at last I bought four brand new tyres. The improvement isn't huge, the vibration still exists, although the intensity of the vibration depends on the perfection of the wheels (lesser vibration at new tyres)

So now I have only two ideas. My car have 130.000km with the original shock absorbers in and of course I feel that the car is so unstable during quick steering movement, althogh to my mechanic's mind, the replacement of the shock absorbers won't solve the problem.

My other idea is the drive shafts. They are balanced by their manufacturer and if they get injured they can cause vibration during acceleration .. but my car shakes over 100-110km/h without reference to acceleration.

I hope I could help with these ideas. Two heads are better than one.

If you found the solution please post it!

Regards

Zoli.

Hi Zoli,

I haven't thought about adjusting my suspensions or about checking the drive shaft ( I should have a few words with my mechanic !!), but I will be doing it first think tomorrow and will let you know.

Gabi

Hi Andy,

Thanks for your reply; I have recently swapped back -to-front wheels to keep them uniformly worn, but the problem was there even before swapping. I have checked for any wheel damage,but nothing can be seen other then small scratches,no bends however. As for the brake discs, just had them replaced with new, about 3000 miles ago, checked them and it looks all uniformely worn,nothing unusual. I cannot think of anything else...

You need to measure the run out on the brake discs with a gauge mounted to the suspension - you won't be able to tell visually.

You are thinking along the right lines though - driveshafts, brake discs - basically anything that rotates. If the problem is the same when swapping wheels front to back then it is likely to be a suspension component or driveshaft/hub/bearing related.

I have personally seen a problem where it was the hub that had warped before, so the brake disc was no longer at right angles to the driveshaft passing through the hub.

Can you feel the vibration more on one side than the other to try and narrow it down to which corner of the car is at fault?

Hi Gabi!

I think the suspension adjusting won't eliminate this problem, but of course not helpless.

The problem is not at the wheels.

I don't think, your discs have axial wobbling because you don't feel vibration at the brake pedal during drastical braking.

To inspect the drive shafts for failures you need to remove them from the car, than you can check the joints too and after dismantling the bare shafts. The tortuousity of the shafts can inspect for example in a lathe. It's a quite difficult process, I'd like to carry this off.

To determine where the vibration comes from is very difficult and you can easily mislead yourself. I felt the vibration comes from the right side of my car, than I changed only the right-side wheels to the borrowed ones and there is no change. After changing four of them the vibration become lighter .. it's a tricky and stressful "game" which I'm in too.

Zoli.

Hi Andy,

Thanks for your reply; I have recently swapped back -to-front wheels to keep them uniformly worn, but the problem was there even before swapping. I have checked for any wheel damage,but nothing can be seen other then small scratches,no bends however. As for the brake discs, just had them replaced with new, about 3000 miles ago, checked them and it looks all uniformely worn,nothing unusual. I cannot think of anything else...

You never mentioned if you could feel it through the brake pedal or if the vibration was at all speeds or came in at a certain speed.

Is it still there if you dip the clutch and coast for a second or two?

I took it out for a test and could not feel any vibrations coming through the brake pedal,but I can feel it while the engine is idle and when accelerating between 30-40 mph. The vibrations are stiLl there as I increase the speed,although you can feel the most better at lower speed.

I had tested the car at speed,with gearbox disengaged and also with clutch depressed, the problem is still there.

Hi Gabi!

I think the suspension adjusting won't eliminate this problem, but of course not helpless.

The problem is not at the wheels.

I don't think, your discs have axial wobbling because you don't feel vibration at the brake pedal during drastical braking.

To inspect the drive shafts for failures you need to remove them from the car, than you can check the joints too and after dismantling the bare shafts. The tortuousity of the shafts can inspect for example in a lathe. It's a quite difficult process, I'd like to carry this off.

To determine where the vibration comes from is very difficult and you can easily mislead yourself. I felt the vibration comes from the right side of my car, than I changed only the right-side wheels to the borrowed ones and there is no change. After changing four of them the vibration become lighter .. it's a tricky and stressful "game" which I'm in too.

Zoli.

Hi Zoli,

Many thanks for your reply;I keep thinking more and more about the drive shafts. I have noticed the other day ,while engaging from 3rd to 4th gear,between 35-45 mph, that not only the vibrations were at their peak,but also there was a slight knocking noise. As I said previously,I am no mechanic but I can distinguish between apparent noises and real ones,and I hope that this might help in identifying the real problem without to much guess work. At this point I am thinking of removing the old drive shafts and replacing with a low milleage from a local car breaker or have the original ones have all bearings,hubs etc. changed. Any suggestions are much appreciated.

Hi Gabi!

Hmmm-hmm, In this case, I think it won't be the drive shaft. 35-40mph is not as high speed to feel the effects (vibrations) of an unbalanced part.

Don't you hear a definite knock when you stop the engine?? A dying dual mass flywheel can cause vibrations too .. and knocking especially when stop the engine.

Try this out too .. This test costs nothing.

Regards

Zoli.

Hi Zoli,

Many thanks for your reply;I keep thinking more and more about the drive shafts. I have noticed the other day ,while engaging from 3rd to 4th gear,between 35-45 mph, that not only the vibrations were at their peak,but also there was a slight knocking noise. As I said previously,I am no mechanic but I can distinguish between apparent noises and real ones,and I hope that this might help in identifying the real problem without to much guess work. At this point I am thinking of removing the old drive shafts and replacing with a low milleage from a local car breaker or have the original ones have all bearings,hubs etc. changed. Any suggestions are much appreciated.

I can feel it while the engine is idle

Do you mean you are moving with no load on the engine at idle speed, or do you mean the car is stationary and idling?

If it is whilst stationary start looking at clutch and dual mass flywheel and engine mounts.

Hi Gabi!

Hmmm-hmm, In this case, I think it won't be the drive shaft. 35-40mph is not as high speed to feel the effects (vibrations) of an unbalanced part.

Don't you hear a definite knock when you stop the engine?? A dying dual mass flywheel can cause vibrations too .. and knocking especially when stop the engine.

Try this out too .. This test costs nothing.

Regards

Zoli.

Hi Zoli,

Dual mass flywheel as well as new clutch and new gearbox bearings have been installed last week;however,when I took it out for a test drive, I have noticed that there was a strong hiss noise while I was moving in the first gear. Now,after using it for about 400 miles,it almost disappeared (the noise). I have referred this to the mechanic,who advised me that the hiss will eventually die down with wear?!

There is no knocking sound when stopping the engine,and this knocking sound I felt it the other day while driving and accelerating fairly high(3500 rpm), today instead nothing,although I did took it up to 4000 rpm's.

There is another important event happening again today...I have only had one of the injectors replaced ( Bosch type,lasted 195000 miles). This morning when I started at cold,soon after it started playing just like when I had the problem with other injector;sudden lost of power,as if I have had filled up with bad fuel,although I have used either premium diesel or normal from reputable garages and added additives. Could it be possible to have a second injector failure? I am really getting a bit uneasy with all the expenses.

The reason why I said drive shafts was also because every time I drive over rough terrain,you can hear a rattling noise and there is a distinct tremor when reversing with full steering locked out.

EGR light is on,I'll have a VAG test on it tomorrow and will be able(hopefully)to post some codes,and maybe put an end to this nightmare.

By the way,I forgot to mention that prior to replacing the injector,my mechanic swapped the injector 1 with 2 and vice versa,and it seem to have worked for 1week,before we decided that there was nothing else to do but to replace it.

Do you mean you are moving with no load on the engine at idle speed, or do you mean the car is stationary and idling?

If it is whilst stationary start looking at clutch and dual mass flywheel and engine mounts.

Hi Andy,

What I ment was the tremor is felt while stationary with engine idle.

Since clutch and dual mass flywheel were replaced last week, I have only got left the engine mounts.

Thanks for that Andy,will check it out and keep you posted.

If you are stationary it is a fair bet that it is something to do with the engine, engine mounts or subframe mounts.

You had the clutch and DMF replaced???? WOW expensive job. How many miles are on this car again, as about all you have left to look at are big-end bearings and crankshaft bearings. Have you had the crankshaft end-float checked when the gearbox was off?

Start with the simple stuff first though - have you had the exhaust checked - it isn't touching the bodywork anywhere is it, or a power steering pipe or similar touching the bodywork and transmitting the engine vibration??

If you are stationary it is a fair bet that it is something to do with the engine, engine mounts or subframe mounts.

You had the clutch and DMF replaced???? WOW expensive job. How many miles are on this car again, as about all you have left to look at are big-end bearings and crankshaft bearings. Have you had the crankshaft end-float checked when the gearbox was off?

Start with the simple stuff first though - have you had the exhaust checked - it isn't touching the bodywork anywhere is it, or a power steering pipe or similar touching the bodywork and transmitting the engine vibration??

Hey Andy,

Thanks for getting in touch; a bit expensive as I have bought genuine parts through VW own parts dept.,about 1k,labour was just over 30%, a family friend u see! Ok,,the car has 195550 miles now and just had all gearbox,kit clutch newly fitted. I have not asked my mechanic if he had checked big-end bearings and crankshaft bearings,however,since tonight i have had strong signals that there is a likelihood of having a second injector failure I will have no choice but to see the mechanic in the morning and have those questions answered too.

Will keep u posted

Thxs Andy

Hi Gabi!

Huhh, it's getting worse :(

I have no experience with diesel engines, I have never had one except a Peugeot 205 1,8D 13years ago so I can't give you advice about possible engine failures, otherwise I agree with Andy (08. August 2011 21:03 post) and his advices.

But hasn't your car had an accident before?? Your car's problems (knock, hiss, vibrations, tremor) look so complex and diversified.

Tremor and rattling at full steering lock may indicate drive shaft problem, but the question is that wheather the problem with the drive shaft is originated from a normal deterioration or from a deformed chassis/suspension?

I wish my suspicions about chassis deformation would fictitious!

Zoli.

Hi Zoli,

Dual mass flywheel as well as new clutch and new gearbox bearings have been installed last week;however,when I took it out for a test drive, I have noticed that there was a strong hiss noise while I was moving in the first gear. Now,after using it for about 400 miles,it almost disappeared (the noise). I have referred this to the mechanic,who advised me that the hiss will eventually die down with wear?!

There is no knocking sound when stopping the engine,and this knocking sound I felt it the other day while driving and accelerating fairly high(3500 rpm), today instead nothing,although I did took it up to 4000 rpm's.

There is another important event happening again today...I have only had one of the injectors replaced ( Bosch type,lasted 195000 miles). This morning when I started at cold,soon after it started playing just like when I had the problem with other injector;sudden lost of power,as if I have had filled up with bad fuel,although I have used either premium diesel or normal from reputable garages and added additives. Could it be possible to have a second injector failure? I am really getting a bit uneasy with all the expenses.

The reason why I said drive shafts was also because every time I drive over rough terrain,you can hear a rattling noise and there is a distinct tremor when reversing with full steering locked out.

EGR light is on,I'll have a VAG test on it tomorrow and will be able(hopefully)to post some codes,and maybe put an end to this nightmare.

By the way,I forgot to mention that prior to replacing the injector,my mechanic swapped the injector 1 with 2 and vice versa,and it seem to have worked for 1week,before we decided that there was nothing else to do but to replace it.

Hey Andy,

Thanks for getting in touch; a bit expensive as I have bought genuine parts through VW own parts dept.,about 1k,labour was just over 30%, a family friend u see! Ok,,the car has 195550 miles now and just had all gearbox,kit clutch newly fitted. I have not asked my mechanic if he had checked big-end bearings and crankshaft bearings,however,since tonight i have had strong signals that there is a likelihood of having a second injector failure I will have no choice but to see the mechanic in the morning and have those questions answered too.

Will keep u posted

Thxs Andy

An injector failure won't help as the car will be running on 3 cylinders, which will cause vibration! If you keep getting injector failures get the loom replaced as well whilst they are in there. A good mechanic can hear bottom end problems (big ends and mains) and a quick removal of the sump can confirm excessive wear. It is unusual for injector failures on the PD110 and PD140, it is the PD170 that normally has these problems.

Hi Andy,

Hi Andy,

It looks like there is nothing to do with the injector, as this morning I had the same problems as before having the injector replaced.

I had a diagnostic check done and after I cleared the faults it keeps bringing up the EGR cooler valve problem. I have just had a recon turbo delivered and had the mechanic remove the EGR unit and the cooler valve, remove all the dirt,clean and test them before deciding to go for a new EGR cooler valve new unit.

The vibrations looks to generate from an inner driveshaft barring badly worn. I will have them tomorrow in.

Will keep you posted

Gabi

Hi Andy,

Hi Andy,

It looks like there is nothing to do with the injector, as this morning I had the same problems as before having the injector replaced.

I had a diagnostic check done and after I cleared the faults it keeps bringing up the EGR cooler valve problem. I have just had a recon turbo delivered and had the mechanic remove the EGR unit and the cooler valve, remove all the dirt,clean and test them before deciding to go for a new EGR cooler valve new unit.

The vibrations looks to generate from an inner driveshaft barring badly worn. I will have them tomorrow in.

Will keep you posted

Gabi

Odd that the vibration shows up when idling if it is an inner driveshaft joint?

Glad you are getting to the bottom of it though. Where are you in the UK if you want a second opinion?

Odd that the vibration shows up when idling if it is an inner driveshaft joint?

Glad you are getting to the bottom of it though. Where are you in the UK if you want a second opinion?

Hey Andy,

Sorry for Kate reply; away on a much needed holiday.

You were spot on in diagnosing that the injector failure was directly related to a damaged loom wire. I was not able to see any damages with the naked eye but since replacing it ,I haven't had anymore problems, (TOUCH WOOD), in that area. It cost me about £50,job done.

I have also had the boost pressure sensor G13 replaced as well as the Boost pressure control valve N75,costly (£190), but worth it as when I had a second scan,faults related to G13 and N75 were gone,I am now left with the only error which points at EGR cooling valve. Unfortunately they cannot sell the valve separately,so, another £255,which I have just bought it.

Big day tomorrow,will have the cooler installed and I honestly hope to come to an end with the engine related problems. Oh,just forgot that I had an oil change with filter done before mounting the recon turbo, this time I have changed from Mobil1 ESP 5W-30 to Quantum Platinum(recommended for PD engine,as it is written on it) 5W-40. Since the car has high mileage ,I was recommended to do so. Any suggestions?

Quite a big shopping list for tomorrow again,if it turns out to be needed ( engine+subframe mounts,big-end +crankshaft bearings and Crankshaft end-float )

Will keep u posted

Gabi

Hi Gabi!

Huhh, it's getting worse :(

I have no experience with diesel engines, I have never had one except a Peugeot 205 1,8D 13years ago so I can't give you advice about possible engine failures, otherwise I agree with Andy (08. August 2011 21:03 post) and his advices.

But hasn't your car had an accident before?? Your car's problems (knock, hiss, vibrations, tremor) look so complex and diversified.

Tremor and rattling at full steering lock may indicate drive shaft problem, but the question is that wheather the problem with the drive shaft is originated from a normal deterioration or from a deformed chassis/suspension?

I wish my suspicions about chassis deformation would fictitious!

Zoli.

Hey Zoli,

So sorry for late reply, went on a holiday for a few days,just got back now.

I suspect that the problem relies with the dual mass flywheel,and I am suspecting that it was either the wrong part supplied or fitted wrongly.

I am having the gearbox removed to check on the problem,any ideas where I might be able to find workshop references,manuals etc , which provides guidance on the correct procedure of removing/ replacing a gearbox,clutch or flywheel?

Thanks for your help

Gabi

Hi Gabi!

Sorry I haven't noticed your message since now.

I don't think, that your DMF is the false. The vibration during idling originated from the engine and from its mountings.

Wrong fitting?? Hmm, maybe, the hiss noise while shift to a gear is not normal. Where does your clutch start to engage? Does it disengage fully? Do you feel vibration on the clutch pedal while you push it down?

Removing of the clutch is not an easy job for an ordinary man especially without proper tools. I wouldn't try to perform it myself.

Next week I will have a look at my front wheel bearings with my mechanic. I suspect that the right side bearing is worn, because during left turns (at about 20-30km/h) I hear a strange hissing noise (not so loudly, but in the right corners I hear nothing)

I hope finally I will find the cause of my car's vibration. I will let you know if it succeed.

Look for the possible noises while you turn by your car! The tremor at full steering lock would come from a faulty drive shaft joint.

Regards

Zoli.

Hey Zoli,

So sorry for late reply, went on a holiday for a few days,just got back now.

I suspect that the problem relies with the dual mass flywheel,and I am suspecting that it was either the wrong part supplied or fitted wrongly.

I am having the gearbox removed to check on the problem,any ideas where I might be able to find workshop references,manuals etc , which provides guidance on the correct procedure of removing/ replacing a gearbox,clutch or flywheel?

Thanks for your help

Gabi