Am I right in thinking that my car will have the alloy inlet pushrods, therefore requiring 0.25mm inlet and 0.20 exhaust clearances? Thanks in advance!

Recommend following this method. Quick and easy, no feeler gauges needed. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/90342-the-proud-owner-of-a-tractor/page__view__findpost__p__1108203 Can't remember the specifics, I think there's a label somewhere under the bonnet stating the valve clearances. I just did .25 all round I think, and it seemed perfectly fine.

Recommend following this method. Quick and easy, no feeler gauges needed. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/90342-the-proud-owner-of-a-tractor/page__view__findpost__p__1108203 Can't remember the specifics, I think there's a label somewhere under the bonnet stating the valve clearances. I just did .25 all round I think, and it seemed perfectly fine.

Cheers. Yes, I thought the 'angle' method seemed to make perfect sense. I'm used to working on OHC bikes, and of course the components are so much smaller, that feeler gauges are perfectly accurate. I'm taking a party to see Status Quo on Lytham front in the Favorit tonight, so it will be stone cold in the morning, and I will be hangover-less! Weather permitting, i'll give it a bash tomorrow. Even purchased a new r/cover gasket from Jorily.

Valve clearances adjusted. I used the angle method, and it agreed with the feeler gauges, so i used both. I set the exhaust valves to 0.20mm and inlet to 0.25mm, 7 of the 8 were too tight. I now have a touch more tappet noise, but peace of mind they are correct. I went back over them to double check, I'm a bit OCD with these types of jobs! Just brake fluid and front pads to change now, and all should be well.