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Hello people, i have been reading these forums for months now so decided to join, any how, i have just got my skoda through its mot after spending £300 to get it through, any how it has got a problem now and i really hope to get it fixed after spending alot of money on the car, when driving down the road at a constant low speed it kangaroos(jerks like no petrol has got through or mis fired) it still drives ok thou just keeps kangarooing,jerking, anyway took it into my local garage and they said it was a few seals need replacing between the master cylinder to the servo, 2 little O shape seals(washers) and 1 horse show like seal(washer) but they cant fix it as they cant find the parts(i dont want to scarp the car after all this), anyway they cant seem to get these parts, so i am going to post on the wanted thread here, but i wanted to find out how this could be the real problem, what would these few seals have to do with the car kangarooing(jerking, like running out of petrol, mis fireing, hard to explain really) oh and if i cant find the seals can they be made with like a gasket sealant sort of stuff, or where i might be able to get hold of these parts, thankyou guys.

Edited by christopher s
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Sounds odd to be a braking problem? Are they sure its not something like the fuel filter or something? I confess I don't know enough about the workings of the servo but I don't get how it would cause that?

Good luck finding out.

Regards

Matt

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Hmm my first thoughts would be distributor, cap, and rotor arm. Remove the cap (2 clips) and check the rotor arm (i.e. distributor shaft) does not move too much left to right - there should be minimal movement.

If you really do need the seals best place is Jorily for a brake servo. This comes with the seals in place. The only thing missing is the horseshoe bit - which I suspect might be possible to order at a Skoda dealers.

If there was a problem with the seals though, IMO the vacuum would be gone and the brakes would be terrible (note they're not quite as good as brakes on a modern car as standard).

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:) If you spray WD40 or similar round the servo/master cylinder with the engine idling and the engine runs differently as the fluid temporarily seals the leak you will know wether not the seals are leaking.

Don't suppose you are anywhere near me? [Royston, Herts].

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thx guys for these replys, i have had some personal problems the last few weeks, anyway a few days ago we took to a official skoda garage to get confirmation, and they did indeed say it was the servo, but they cant get one at the moment and they dont think they will, they just took the pipe off from servo and the problem went away, dont know how that worked myself as surely it would be worst with more air leakage(oviously the brakes did not work then), i did find someone that had a used servo, a place called roadside rescue, only thing i worry about is buying it and it not a good servo, anyone used these guys, oh and i think i may need a distrubtor also, cheers

anewman - garage said distributor does move and it should not, but i think its the servo that is the main problem that is causeing the jerking, so would a servo not come with the horseshoe seal, garage said i just need a servo.

daverapid - i live in trowbridge, wiltshire.

Edited by christopher s
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I don't believe a servo would come with the horseshoe bit of plastic.

506000.png

Part numbers in above pic which are probably relevant are

4 - 114595800

5 - 114595783

27 - 114595761

Bear in mind officially the Favorit parts are no longer in production. You could still try call a dealer and ask if they can get hold of them though. Other possibility is to ask Jorily.

If the distributor does move, this will mean the timing is out and it would lead to jerking. The same happened with me - and it got bad enough for the car to actually stop running. I would personally swap the distributor and get the timing lined up first, as it's an easier job than doing anything with the servo. There is no mechanical retard/advance system (it's handled electronically) in the distributor so it should not move back and forth.

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Thankyou for that, my skoda garage has tried there sources the last few days with no luck and i have emailed jorily also no luck, so when the garage said i need a servo, its just the 3 spacers i really need then 4 , 5 , 27 ?, also a waste of time getting a servo if i dont get the spacers as well then it seems, i dont know what to do now, spent so much on it recently.

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i have emailed jorily also no luck

Try raise them on the phone. Not unknown for emails to go unreplied- guessing there's an aggressive spam filter being used.

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I don't believe a servo would come with the horseshoe bit of plastic.

506000.png

Part numbers in above pic which are probably relevant are

4 - 114595800

5 - 114595783

27 - 114595761

Bear in mind officially the Favorit parts are no longer in production. You could still try call a dealer and ask if they can get hold of them though. Other possibility is to ask Jorily.

If the distributor does move, this will mean the timing is out and it would lead to jerking. The same happened with me - and it got bad enough for the car to actually stop running. I would personally swap the distributor and get the timing lined up first, as it's an easier job than doing anything with the servo. There is no mechanical retard/advance system (it's handled electronically) in the distributor so it should not move back and forth.

Is it easy to get the timing lined up correctly ?, do i not just replace the distributor myself with one i get hold off, cheers

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Is it easy to get the timing lined up correctly ?, do i not just replace the distributor myself with one i get hold off, cheers

The distributor can rotate 360 so it needs to be in the correct location. You need to turn the engine to TDC. There's a marking with numbers on the engine block most likely covered in muck/crud, and a mark on the crankshaft (the bit the drive belt goes round at the bottom) which is rather difficult to make out. Then there is a dot on the distributor under the cap which is very obvious, and with the engine at TDC, the rotor arm needs to point to this. Note with the line on the engine being next to 0 on the engine block, there are two possible positions the engine is in. One will have the rotor arm pointing away from the mark, and one at the mark. Use the existing one as a guide.

To turn the distributor there is a 10mm clamp nut & bolt holding it in an extension tube. You loosen this and turn as desired. It's worth bearing in mind on old/used ones these will be difficult/impossible to turn - best way is, with distributor off the car, to completely remove this bolt and use brute-force to extract, then renew the o ring oil seal inside the distributor and reassemble. Try and get the new distributor in as close a position as possible to the old one so you won't need to turn much - remember it will turn as you push it in when the drive gear meshes with the engine internals. The replacement can be checked for movement off the car by grasping the gears at the bottom and checking for free movement at the rotor arm.

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The distributor can rotate 360 so it needs to be in the correct location. You need to turn the engine to TDC. There's a marking with numbers on the engine block most likely covered in muck/crud, and a mark on the crankshaft (the bit the drive belt goes round at the bottom) which is rather difficult to make out. Then there is a dot on the distributor under the cap which is very obvious, and with the engine at TDC, the rotor arm needs to point to this. Note with the line on the engine being next to 0 on the engine block, there are two possible positions the engine is in. One will have the rotor arm pointing away from the mark, and one at the mark. Use the existing one as a guide.

To turn the distributor there is a 10mm clamp nut & bolt holding it in an extension tube. You loosen this and turn as desired. It's worth bearing in mind on old/used ones these will be difficult/impossible to turn - best way is, with distributor off the car, to completely remove this bolt and use brute-force to extract, then renew the o ring oil seal inside the distributor and reassemble. Try and get the new distributor in as close a position as possible to the old one so you won't need to turn much - remember it will turn as you push it in when the drive gear meshes with the engine internals. The replacement can be checked for movement off the car by grasping the gears at the bottom and checking for free movement at the rotor arm.

Thankyou for that detailed reply, still looks a bit daunting to a non mechanic thou, cheers!

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