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Could anyone advise on the EGR unit,how to test it before deciding to go for a new one? I have heard from other forums that you can attach a vacuum pump and the valve should move upward? Is that true? I have had mine down,clean it of all the dirt accumulated over 195000 miles and pushed with the finger the valve in an upward movement,but it was impossible to move it. Could this be a sign that needs to be replaced?

Any feedback about your own past experience and knowledge would be appreciated.

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Could anyone advise on the EGR unit,how to test it before deciding to go for a new one? I have heard from other forums that you can attach a vacuum pump and the valve should move upward? Is that true? I have had mine down,clean it of all the dirt accumulated over 195000 miles and pushed with the finger the valve in an upward movement,but it was impossible to move it. Could this be a sign that needs to be replaced?

Any feedback about your own past experience and knowledge would be appreciated.

as it's the vac type yes you could just vac it and it should move, at 195k I'm surprised anything could pass thro' however now you've done the dirty bit why not just replace but block off the vac line? unless it has some other mods it will work just as well but you will almost certainly get a dash light up which could be programmed out --probly not worth the cost it won't hurt if you can live with it--- if there is a problem just reconect the vac the main failure at high miles is the valve stem seal which allows oil to leak from the vent holes

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I can't advise you on the EGR, but what I would say is have you considered fitting an EGR delete kit?

Hi ,

No,I haven't , mainly due to my understanding that by doing this EGR delete op. its emissions will increase. I am into business with local government transport department,and their regulations are very strict regarding CO2 emissions.

Thanks anyway for your suggestion.

Edited by skoda2007
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as it's the vac type yes you could just vac it and it should move, at 195k I'm surprised anything could pass thro' however now you've done the dirty bit why not just replace but block off the vac line? unless it has some other mods it will work just as well but you will almost certainly get a dash light up which could be programmed out --probly not worth the cost it won't hurt if you can live with it--- if there is a problem just reconect the vac the main failure at high miles is the valve stem seal which allows oil to leak from the vent holes

Hi,

Would it be possible to just change this valve stern seal only,without replacing the whole unit? I have had a quote for the whole unit for about £75, but if I could avoid this cost by just replacing that seal,it would just be fantastic.

I was going to ask u another question related to why I found oil in the air intake manifold which connects to the turbo charger ,although all pipes have been cleaned and a new turbo installed? Would this be all related to the EGR stem valve seal? Could this damage my turbo,should I not do something about it?

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Also,in addition to the above query,could you guys help with some pics/diagrams which shows how to check the electric wires running from the N345 valve to the ECu unit? I know that this topic has been answered but I would still need more info (my mechanic needs help :rofl: )

Thanks all

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Hi ,

No,I haven't , mainly due to my understanding that by doing this EGR delete op. its emissions will increase. I am into business with local government transport department,and their regulations are very strict regarding CO2 emissions.

Thanks anyway for your suggestion.

Even with the delete kit fitted the emmissions will still be with in legal limits, and will pass any MOT inspection.

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Hi,

Would it be possible to just change this valve stern seal only,without replacing the whole unit? I have had a quote for the whole unit for about £75, but if I could avoid this cost by just replacing that seal,it would just be fantastic.

I was going to ask u another question related to why I found oil in the air intake manifold which connects to the turbo charger ,although all pipes have been cleaned and a new turbo installed? Would this be all related to the EGR stem valve seal? Could this damage my turbo,should I not do something about it?

the seal which would cost approx 10pence is almost imposible to change there was a fix attempt on FRED'S some time back with epoxy -I don't know how long it lasted BUT unless oil is leaking thro' the egr vent holes - the seal is OK there will always be oil in there even with a new turbo near as I can tell a catch tank will take out approx 35ml/1k miles but not all of it If I was starting with a new one (pneumatic) again I would keep the valve in tact and fit a switch in the vac line that way you can get fast warm up in winter and less clogging the rest of the time --"I'll get me coat( anorack)"

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