cheshire_cat

Not a bodywork expert but I would have thought it is repairable , probably best to check with a body shop and if you can remove it yourself will save some money but they may want to do the whole job . If your game take a look @ YouTube and see if your brave enough 😉

Up date cleaned the contacts ( about 70) on the onboard controler and the switching now occurs at a lower voltage, 13+ So depends on the length of trip since last engine start and battery voltage also if the radio is adding to the total drain). @switch off and locking of the car this can be as fast as 10 minutes and alls well. On 09 model year ( onward ) was the first year the onboard and power control were integrated into one unit “ vehicle voltage control unit” Does anyone know the “ normal” Bolero drain when switched off? Before vehicle system shutdown. Hope this helps someone. 🌝

Always been a UniRoyal fan mid price good wet grip and sub brand of Continental - but each to his own 🌝

This might give you a smile . Have a good one🫣😉

Hi, the car is original to me and so no changes to the radio have been made. I now believe the power control and body control module were combined at about this time. So am going to see if I can get that checked despite it otherwise functioning normally. Drain is @ instruments- 126mA radio@560+mA ( off) and canbus@ 120mA. @ 14.5+ volts everything switches off fine it then takes a few days for the voltage tO degrade before it switches them ( only them) back on 🤯

Not much to update but when connected to the battery charger and the voltage gets up around 14-14.5 the draining culprits - control for can databus and radio cut off, followed by instrument cluster wipers/ turn signal fuse being turned off , when turning off charger the reverse happens @ < 14v and drain recommences . Is there a separate power control to the can bus or is it a body control module fault? ALL other accessories lighting etc behave as expected Any thoughts anyone ?

Well it improved it which isn’t saying much but @ 14 years old the rubbers past it’s best, what it did help with is softening the area/ lichen ( which is like concrete) along the inside edge of the rubber where it squeegees the glass, this can then be carefully removed with a blunt knife, easy to cut the now softened rubber. Only time will tell.

I’m trying out WD40 looks good but early days yet, I believe it’s largely based on veg’ oil

What sort of cost is postage and fitting these days Camskill are a bit shy until you order . Quite keen now you’ve mentioned it 👍

From memory it does vent back into the valve “chest”/ rockerbox

Just be aware that Haldex oil is different from diff’ oil. Don’t get the two mixed up double check which fills which🫣

Opie are a good reliable business👍. Prices OK too especially with free carriage 🙂

Hi chaps, sorry this has been a long time coming and not definitive so far. Having spent much time messing about I still had not come to a conclusion as to wether or not the can bus was operating properly. On measuring the c’b’ ohms were 65( should be 60 ) and can hi and low appeared to be the same voltage 2.5? V 🤬 Having given up and gone to my local VW specialist they diagnosed the radio as faulty, but did write on the invoice “ can bus OK”🤔. This does not really tell me if the canbus power and instrument drain is “ normal” Having now been relieved of hard cash 🙀. I am noT convinced I learned anything but will leave the radio out completely to see what happens. Thanks for the kind offer Liger1956 but I will manage without a radios if necessary but if anyone knows of a Bolero fix it would be good, most seem to get binned🫣

Over 50% of my battery drain problem is down to the Bolero unit whilst this is seems to be the source of many various faults, has anyone solved the problem of “ leakage” or had the unit repaired and if so what is the exact problem ? It could be leakage or refusal of the canbus to isolate it after. “ time down” Thinking of rewireing to ignition only, anyone see any problems. It’s the original unit to the car .

Going from my old sketch, looking from the left hand side of the car, with the main drive( prop shaft) to your left facing forward. The rear diff filler and drain are @ 3 o’clock fill and 6 o’clock drain. Adjacent to the left hand rear wheel driveshaft into housing. On the Haldex the drain is extreme bottom left of the casing and filler almost inline above it @ the top I have listed bevel gear ( front) .9 litre of Fuchs Titan Sinopoid FE 75W-85 also for the rear diff .925 litres. It’s an API=GL5 = VW G 052 — 145A1 or 190A2 Gearbox ( main) 2.3 ltrs of Titan Sintofluid FE 75W = API=GL4 = VW G052 171 A1= 178A2 = 512A2 . They keep updating and these Vw numbers are most likely well out of date but may help. NB Haldex “ coupling oil” as they call it is listed @ G0552175A1 or G060 175 A2 . It’s a lot of stuff and maybe out of date so double check — hope this helps

Don’t know if you sorted this but it would be a good idea To change it. I used Fuchs Titan can’t remember which grade off hand. My 09 4x4 same car gearbox was changed @ approx 15k miles from new , it was like brown water. 😖. They fit crappy to thin oil to get the economy numbers up. ( bloody EUSSR 🤮) so if yours is still OK definitely change it, Note there is a rear diff AND the Haldex which do not take the same oil .

Did you get sorted ? 🤔

To measure the drain you can either use a DC clamp meter( on the battery earth lead) or disconnect the battery and measure amps between negative and earth point. To do this it will be necessary to 1 switch off the interior sensor ( door pillar switch to OFF ) 2- leaving the drivers door open lock the latch with ascrew driver ( 2 clicks). 3 - do the same with the bonnet whilst leaving it open. Fit the meter whichever, then using the fob lock the car. Leave for nominally 40 minuted but VAG say 2 hours . Measuring with the fuses in place seems to be the “ modern method” this is measuring the mild lot reading across each fuse. A reading ***mV should after a few seconds go to Zero .that’s good. Any non zero reading should be noted fuse number - fuse size and its reading, using a chart cross ref the reading and fuse size to give a real value. With the internal fuse box it may be a good idea to get a photo before touching anything as there are a lot of empty spaces - easy to make a mistake🙀. I’m guessing the radio is prob’ly the main culprit but check them all. Keep us posted- good luck It’s worth noting that VW say if the problem persists and all readings are good leave sleeping for 24 hours 😖

Could try measuring the “resting” or parasitic drain should be below 40 mAmps preferably less. Note after locking up +2 hours

I have the engine light on and a P0100 Maf code. The engine starts and runs fine no jerks or stuttering when plugged in or disconnected. The Maf looks clean, is it worth spraying on a petrol engine ( well maintained ) I am getting a constant flow reading of 684. 06gms/ sec. ( plugged on or not) Having looked @ the plug I get ( ignition on) no.1 4.9v temp signal? no’ 2 ground no. 3- 12mv no’4 11v no’5. 3.12 volts Is the Maf duff or is it the main feed, no3? not doing it’s thing ( should be 12v?) any suggestions welcome

Barnet formula ? it's been a long 3 years

is that English or Scots tax payers take a look here

am right that north of the border there is a push on this no luck down here, makes you wonder when you see how its gone in Norway

I think many superchargers are on "private property" as a result of red tape in "public" areas and the hassle of getting anything done with our sclerotic local authorities, (our village has two e bays in its new car park but no chargers also hotels must find it brings in trade as do Tesla"destination" chargers

interestingly in the 3rd location the guy charging was running from I think south yorkshire into North Wales this was 1/2 way and he was doing this 3 days/week in a BM' he was 9 months in and well chuffed with his fuel savings