Hello Every one,

I bought my 2001 Skoda Fabia 1.4 16v (DOHC) in may some time. I was driving it home and the MIL light came on (also known as Check Engine Light)

I looked at the code and it was a P0404 (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)

I have had the EGR Valve Cleaned out, That did not work so i replaced it, Still light

So i took the car to a garage and they have cleaned out the Full EGR system and also changed Thermostat and fan belt as my request.

Now the light is still on dose any one have a idear or have had the problem before and fixed it?

I know there are lots of questions on here and all over the web asking about p0404 But none of them seem to have a real reason.

Things i have had wrong with my car is The rev counter jumps affter a little,

it died on the m3 in the middle lane and them started up again 2 times

Thanks For your time Hope you can help

Mike

Edited 26 August, 201114 yr by zyboman

What grade of fuel are you using, only ask as VAG recommend using 98 Octane fuel with the 1.4 16v

What grade of fuel are you using, only ask as VAG recommend using 98 Octane fuel with the 1.4 16v

I have tried 98 and 95 dident make any difrance apart from i had less money in my pocket :p

Thanks

Using a scan tool command the EGR valve to open while watching the actual EGR position (it will probably be labeled "desired EGR" or something similar). The actual EGR position should be very close to the "desired" EGR position. If it is, then the problem is likely intermittent. It may have been a lodged piece of carbon that has since dislodged, or it could be a bad EGR valve winding that intermittently opens or shorts as the valve temperature changes.

If the EGR "desired" position is not close to the "actual" position, then unplug the EGR sensor. Check for a good 5 Volt reference voltage to the connector. If it doesn't show a reference voltage, repair an open or short in the 5 Volt reference circuit.

If there is a 5 volt reference voltage, activate the EGR with the scanner, monitor the EGR ground circuit with a DVOM (Digital Volt/Ohm meter). It should indicate a good ground. If it doesn't then repair the ground circuit.

If there is a good ground, then check the control circuit. It should indicate voltage that varies according to the percentage that the EGR is open. As it's open more, the voltage should increase accordingly. If it does, then replace the EGR valve.

If the voltage doesn't increase incrementally, then repair open or short in EGR control circuit.

Using a scan tool command the EGR valve to open while watching the actual EGR position (it will probably be labeled "desired EGR" or something similar). The actual EGR position should be very close to the "desired" EGR position. If it is, then the problem is likely intermittent. It may have been a lodged piece of carbon that has since dislodged, or it could be a bad EGR valve winding that intermittently opens or shorts as the valve temperature changes.

If the EGR "desired" position is not close to the "actual" position, then unplug the EGR sensor. Check for a good 5 Volt reference voltage to the connector. If it doesn't show a reference voltage, repair an open or short in the 5 Volt reference circuit.

If there is a 5 volt reference voltage, activate the EGR with the scanner, monitor the EGR ground circuit with a DVOM (Digital Volt/Ohm meter). It should indicate a good ground. If it doesn't then repair the ground circuit.

If there is a good ground, then check the control circuit. It should indicate voltage that varies according to the percentage that the EGR is open. As it's open more, the voltage should increase accordingly. If it does, then replace the EGR valve.

If the voltage doesn't increase incrementally, then repair open or short in EGR control circuit.

I will test all that when i get it back soon. I know when i try doing the scan tool the car judders as if it died but didnt if you know what i mean.

Thanks

Mike