Today I set about replacing the Engine Oil and Filter on my vRS. This is

how I did it -

Parts Required -

Oil Filter p/n 071115562A = �5.52

Sump Plug p/n N90813201 = �0.96

5 Litres Millers XFE-PD = �21.99

Tools Required -

T25 Torx Screwdriver.

19mm Socket for sump plug.

32 or 36mm Socket for oil filter housing (depending on model)

Washing up bowl (tell the missus first).

(I highly recommend either a 32 or 36mm Impact Socket, about �6 from your friendly

local motor accessory shop. As the Oil Filter housing top cover is made of

plastic, a surface driven socket is a must, because bi-hex sockets will

damage the corners of the housing cover nut).

Time Required – about 1 hour.

Level of Difficulty – Easy, but you need to be able to crawl around under

the car, you'll probably enjoy it if you are a Plumber

1. You'll need to get right underneath the engine, so if you have large, but

currently relaxed stomach muscles like me you'll need to make up a ramp

to raise the front wheels about 6 inches. MAKE SURE THIS IS

ABSOLUTELY SAFE BEFORE PROCEEDING!

2. Open the bonnet and remove the top engine cover by grasping its front

edge and sharply lifting it off its rubber locating grommets, then slide it

forward off the rear fixing.

3. Crawl uinderneath the front of the car, armed with your T25

screwdriver and remove the 9 dome-headed Torx screws which attach the

bottom engine cover to the car. There are 4 down each side, and one at

the back. Lower the cover and push it towards the rear of the car to

detach it from the front edge.

4. Now you can see the sump plug, which faces towards the rear of the car.

Use a 19mm socket to remove the plug and let the oil flow out into the

washing up bowl.

5. Use the 36mm socket to remove the plastic cover from the oil filter

housing. The oil filter element at this point will be connected to the

cover so it will all come out together. Grasp the oil filter and pull it off

the housing cover with a sharp action. Remove the rubber sealing O-ring

from the housing cover, and replace with the new one supplied in the oil

filter box. Push the new oil filter into the housing cover until it clicks into

place. Wipe a little fresh oil around the newly fitted housing cover O-ring,

and a bit more around the small O-ring at the protruding end of the filter.

This ensures the O-rings will not snag and get damaged when you refit the

assembly. Place the whole assembly back into the Oil Filter housing, and

tighten hand tight. Now use the 36mm socket to tigthen up, remember the

O-ring forms the seal, not excessive tightness of the cover! I believe

the oil filter housing cover should be tightened to 25Nm.

6. Crawl back underneath and replace the sump plug with the new one,

again don't over tighten, the washer deforms and makes the seal, not the

tightness of the plug! Hand tight, and then torqued to 30Nm, don't over tighten

because the sump is made of Aluminium.

7. Pour fresh oil into the engine until the level is to the top kink of the

dipstick, then replace the oil filler cap, start the engine, and let it run for

about a minute, check for any leaks around the oil filter housing and the

sump plug, switch off. If you check the dipstick now you'll see the level has

gone down to the botton of the hatched area, this is because the oil filter

housing has now filled up. Take your time, and top up the oil to the

required level, avoid overfilling at all costs.

8. Crawl back underneath and refit the bottom engine cover. Slot it in at

the front edge first, then fit the 9 retaining Torx screws. Fit them all

hand tight first, when they are all in go around with your screwdriver and

nip them all up, firm, but not over tight.

9. Pour you old oil into an unused oil can and place it on one side ready to

go up to the recycle centre, give the washing up bowl back to the missus!

Total cost, including VAT, to change Engine Oil and Filter = �28.47

Good Luck

It should be noted that oil level should be checked once car is back on the level.

it's also worth doing the change when the engine is slightly warm - this thins the oil and will allow more to escape and therfore a better quality change

and I can't stress to strongly - do NOT whatever you do overtighten the sump thread - it will strip - YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.

Top description - it's a lot easier than some people would like you to think

While I was crawling around under the car, I noticed that the (still shiney) oil sump is made of pressed steel. Has anyone ever heard of these needing replacement due to surface rust? I just wonder whether it would be prudent to rub some oil over it to protect against corrosion.

The sump is aluminium, is on all VAG diesel and 99% of the petrols nowadays.

And iirc the sump bung should be tightened to 20 nm and 25 nm for the oil filter cap.

The sump is aluminium' date=' is on all VAG diesel and 99% of the petrols nowadays.

And iirc the sump bung should be tightened to 20 nm and 25 nm for the oil filter cap.[/quote']

Thanks for your valuable help. An ex-member Skoda guru called Ross Clarke, who used to be on here some time ago provided some very helpful hints in a previous thread. I was hoping he would eventually do the How To when he had sufficient time but now I've done it myself. I'll add your comments to my thread. Thanks again

I doubt he would have done any better job than you have, nice one

Very handy, I'll be doing this soon.

Has anybody heard about these:

http://www.filtermag.co.uk/cutaway_detroit.htm

One of these won't fit the Furby due to the lack of steel spin-on oil filter. So I was thinking position some hefty magnets near the sump plug, remove them just before draining the oil, and hey ho, any steel particles get flushed away as the oil drains. But since it's an alloy sump the magnets probably won't stick. Any other possible locations people can think of? :confused:

I doubt he would have done any better job than you have, nice one

Very handy' date=' I'll be doing this soon.

Has anybody heard about these:

[url']http://www.filtermag.co.uk/cutaway_detroit.htm[/url]

One of these won't fit the Furby due to the lack of steel spin-on oil filter. So I was thinking position some hefty magnets near the sump plug, remove them just before draining the oil, and hey ho, any steel particles get flushed away as the oil drains. But since it's an alloy sump the magnets probably won't stick. Any other possible locations people can think of? :confused:

How about magnetising the sump plug?

How about magnetising the sump plug?

Don't know that you can, it's an alloy plug isn't it? Anyway, I'm thinking BIG neodymium magnet from eBay, the sort that could happily support a 50 lb weight, if you did manage to magnetise a standard sump plug the "pulling power" would be too weedy to make it worthwhile...

Excellent and useful advice ,i use a vac pump to empty sump as im a lazy so & so,saves getting under the car and lots of time.

As you seem clued up on servicing ,when you come to change the fuel filter will you please post the "how to" . i ask because the unit now fitted .without a water drain plug, differs from what ive done in the past and would like a guiding hand! thanks

PS --Just noticed you refer to Fabia ,mine is octy 2,if similar then ok

Edited 20 October, 200817 yr by DGW
Pointless quote of original post.

Sorry to raise a really old thread but it's still perfectly valid and I have some further information.

Mine's the PD100 Elegance. The difference is that the socket on the oil filter canister is 36mm rather than 32mm on the vRS. Good job my mate at a garage checked before I bought the socket!

Additionally - if you don't fancy mucking about underneath the car - get a fluid extractor for the oil.

Mine's the PD100 Elegance. The difference is that the socket on the oil filter canister is 36mm rather than 32mm on the vRS

yes, it's a 36mm socket on the 1.4 tdi model too:)

where can i get some millers xfe pd engine oil please . does halfords sell it ?

Halfrauds dont sell it. I got mine from the local motorsave.

Tools Required -

T25 Torx Screwdriver.

19mm Socket for sump plug.

32mm Socket for oil filter housing.

If these are for the Fabia what sizes are the 1.9 tdi 130 bhp octy 1 sizes . Thanks

Friends,

is there anybody who has pictures about changing oil filter for Fabia(mine 1,4tdi)

cheers,

TOSH, Have you ever measured the amount of oil you get out? I have one of these things and it's very nice, but I felt that it didn't empty the sump completely so now it's underneath every time. Your experience would be interesting as, if it's my technique, I'll try again. Saves a fortune on Swarfega and shirts.

Trade Parts Specialists have got Quntum PD oil 5l for 10.07+vat

oil filter 2.79+vat

http://www.thetradepartsspecialists.co.uk/special_offers.php

All genuine parts, you should try them!!!

Just a quick add, the 32m/m socket for the Fabia VRS, wants to be 6 sided, as said, a hexagon socket will/can damage plastic edges to the oil filter cap/nut head.-- The engine oil sump plug 19m/m x 6 sided socket is best used.

UPDATE:- JUNE 2010. 5W40 Engine oil.

This engine oil grade spec 505.01 can be SEMI-synthetic with Millers XFE/PD 5W 40 OR ------

With the same engine oil grade spec 505.01 a FULLY synthetic with Halfords brand (Still gets me somewhat confused)

Edited 6 June, 201016 yr by giandougl

Great guide - so good I thought I would have a go myself, and take some pictures. For anyone that is thinking of trying this: go ahead, it is easy. Here is what I found:

1. It easier and I think safer to use ramps than jacks and pieces of wood. Make sure you put down LOTS of old newspapers (more than what I have done, got oil on my Dads garage floor whoops):

2. Safety first - make sure the Furb is in gear, handbrake on and some bricks are behind the wheels:

3. These are the bits you need (tools not shown) - Oil, new sump plug and washer, fresh oil filter, funnel and something to catch the oil in:

4. Here is the engine sans cover. The oil filter housing is the black cylinder at the bottom:

5. This is one of the nine torx screws that hold the sump cover in place:

6. This is the sump plug. DO NOT over tighten, as previously said, when putting back on!

7. This is the oil draining out, and my attempt at not spilling any (failed). Note, it really gushes out fast then slows to a dribble, so be prepared to move your container:

8. Here is the old oil filter. It is FULL of oil, so take care taking it out!

Mistakes I made / thoughts:

- The vRS takes 4.3 litres (maybe more) so don't buy 4 litres of oil like i did

- I got given a new sump plug by my friendly local (Canterbury) Skoda dealer, but I think only a new washer is required

- DO NOT overtighten the sump (as stated previously, but its important so I thought I would say it again)

- Same goes for the oil filter housing

- Don't forget to change the seal on the oil filter housing. A new one should come with the filter.

And thats about it. Apologies to those who found this a bit basic - this post is aimed at those with no mechanical experience (like me).

Good luck!

Good stuff, good to see folks getting dirty hands and saving a few quid in the process:thumbup:

mmm just measured my 53 plate vRS oil filter hex head and its 36mm so bought the hex socket from Halfords and it fits perfectly. Maybe there are different size oil filter housing sizes?

:confused:

How about magnetising the sump plug?

fabia vrs magnetic sump plug

regards

Austin