I got my first Skoda on Monday. It is a 1 year old 1.6 diesel SE. So it has the standard alloy wheels (nice!).

Being a bit of a a tinkerer, I wasn't impressed by the look of the drum brakes at the back. They were painted a dismal shade of grey and were starting to go rusty. With the alloy wheels having 5 narrow spoke the drums are very much on display. So I bought some matt black spray paint and prepared to repaint the drums.

HOWEVER!!

When I tried to remove the first wheel, it was firmly stuck on the hub. I had to use a cold chisel and lump hammer to separate the wheel from the hub. The back face of the wheel is tapered where it meets the hub and the chisel sat on this taper and acted as a wedge. Once the wheel had stated to move - when there was a small gap between the two components - I used a metal bar as a lever to gradually pry the wheel off. I put a piece of wood between the bar and the spoke of the wheel to prevent damage to the alloy.

This took about 30 minutes and would have been very difficult if I had been stuck at the side of the road with a flat tyre.

All 4 wheels were firmly stuck on their hubs.

The cause was a build up of rust on the central boss of the hub. This was easily removed with steel wool and some fine emery paper. I then put some grease on the hub to reduce the risk of it rusting further. The wheels then went back on easily and should be OK to remove in future.

I f you have a fairly new car, I strongly recommend you check that the wheels come off easily or clean and grease the hubs to ensure they aren't a problem if you need to change a tyre when on a trip. This problem may only apply if your car has allow wheels.

Finally, I painted the drums which now look neat and tidy with the matt black paint

i had a similar issue when i DID have a flat. i'd assumed when serviced that something along the lines of what youve done would happen but apparently not. it was dark, it was raining and it deffo wasnt pleasant

hehehehe

Edited 16 September, 201114 yr by Sonner

Tip:- use copaslip or high melting point grease!

I've a 08 fabia steel wheels is this an issue ? All new fabia's come with painted black gloss paint so this issue won't be an issue with alloys

I've a 08 fabia steel wheels is this an issue ? All new fabia's come with painted black gloss paint so this issue won't be an issue with alloys

The back of the black alloys ISN'T black, just natural alloy!! Galvanic corrision is a b*gger! Wont affected steel on steel

Yes, I had the same problem on my old 56 plate Fabia, used a 'kin great nylon hammer to get mine off. Copaslip is the answer . Must check the Scout.

Hi guys

To save your self smacking F--k out of your wheels and marking them

Loosen all the wheel bolts a few turns drive it round in a tight circle right then left ""IN A SAFE PLACE NOT ROUND A MOTOR WAY ISLAND LOL" and the will come loose off the hub. Clean the wheel and the hub and coat in copper slip job done.

Hope this helps

Chris K

Hi guys

To save your self smacking F--k out of your wheels and marking them

Loosen all the wheel bolts a few turns drive it round in a tight circle right then left ""IN A SAFE PLACE NOT ROUND A MOTOR WAY ISLAND LOL" and the will come loose off the hub. Clean the wheel and the hub and coat in copper slip job done.

Hope this helps

Chris K

Good tip, thanks, I'll try that if they're stuck.

Hi guys

To save your self smacking F--k out of your wheels and marking them

Loosen all the wheel bolts a few turns drive it round in a tight circle right then left ""IN A SAFE PLACE NOT ROUND A MOTOR WAY ISLAND LOL" and the will come loose off the hub. Clean the wheel and the hub and coat in copper slip job done.

Hope this helps

Chris K

+1 this is what i did first time I had the wheels off

CAUTIONARY NOTE:

Yes, you can do that and it's ok to do if you are careful, but much better to hit the tyres with a mallet from the inside. They always come off ok. To the uninitiated, be careful if you do it any other way. You should only need to slacken the bolts by half to three quarters of a turn. Anymore and there is a chance you could damage the discs, pads or calipers, or even the wheel itself. We had many a customer over the years who had done just that. Alloy wheels can crack if not done up properly and can do so if you undo the wheel bolts by 'a few turns'. When the wheel let's go of the hub it can do so with considerable force even at a very low speed in first gear. If there is any slack between the wheel bolt and wheel this can cause hairline cracking to start. Just be careful.

Not trying to rain on anyones parade.

Edited 17 September, 201114 yr by Estate Man

Thanks for your advice and comments.

Just a small suggestion from the world of sailing. Boats often have aluminium masts and you must NEVER put copper or brass fittings on them. The reason is that the two metals act like a battery and the aluminium rots very quickly. For this reason (I may be over cautious) I never put coppaslip on alloy wheels. I prefer a heavy waterproof grease or possibly Waxoyl painted on the hub face to reduce corrosion..

SB

Thanks for your advice and comments.

Just a small suggestion from the world of sailing. Boats often have aluminium masts and you must NEVER put copper or brass fittings on them. The reason is that the two metals act like a battery and the aluminium rots very quickly. For this reason (I may be over cautious) I never put coppaslip on alloy wheels. I prefer a heavy waterproof grease or possibly Waxoyl painted on the hub face to reduce corrosion..

SB

+1 for waxoyl, or just a smidgen of silicon grease which is completely inert and withstands heat ok

Loosen the bolts and just going forward and backward with a stab on the brake should be enough. :yes:

Instead of coppaslip (as mentioned, never use this on aluminium wheels) use silicone or aluminium grease).

The back of the black alloys ISN'T black, just natural alloy!! Galvanic corrision is a b*gger! Wont affected steel on steel

Sorry not the alloy wheel , the hub now comes painted black too withstand the sticking