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Replacement Clutch

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Doing a bit of research about a clutch and was wondering what everyones views or actual experience are?

So far the Sachs upgraded clutch seems to be the best option for anyone running any kind of power over stock.

How many people either changed or upgraded the flywheel at the same time?

Anyone know anything about this product as an alternative to Sachs: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250804951207?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp4712.m570.l1313%26_nkw%3D250804951207%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

Has anyone used these guys before? http://www.clutchmasters.com/

From reading up on the Sachs it looks like there is mixed reviews on the day to day driveability of it in terms of stiffness and bite point. Anyone care to share their actual experience? B)

Had a Sachs fitted recently and love it. For day to day driving it is absolutely fine and seems very similar to oem, just more positive with a slightly stonger bite. Doesn't take long to adjust to and certainly handles all the extra power/torque no probs. My standard flywheel was fine too.

  • Author

"Anyone know anything about this product as an alternative to Sachs: http://www.ebay.co.u..._fvi%3D1&_rdc=1"

Just given these guys a call and they seem to know their stuff. Pretty tempted to get this package. The company is called Techniclutch, Tel: 0800 083 4142.

Anyone had any experience with them or the product?

I think I would be sticking with Sachs myself. Your standard flywheel will be fine so no need to buy one of those. The price is also quite a bit more than a Sachs from Jkm, don't forget that you need to factor in fitment of about £200 as well.

The Sachs is very good. Mine bit too well for the first 20 miles after fitting, to the point where I kept stalling it. Now it behaves like an O.E. clutch but is harder to push. If I do a lot of town driving it does hurt my knee a little but I prefer that to a slipping clutch.

My car had done around 95k when it was changed so I bought a new flywheel to go with it. The one that came out was still in good condition but while it was all out I had it changed. I read the flywheels tend to go if the clutch has been slipping for a while.

It would be worth fitting a new slave cylinder while it's all out too, they are cheap enough and if they go you will need to open up the clutch again.

Even though the SACHS one will be more expensive than a cheaper non-branded version, one thing sums it up. They are fitted as Original to the car! - Stick with OE and it'll see you over another 100,000 miles!

also, its worth doing the whole job (DMF and CSC) while you have the gear box in pieces - It'll end up costing you more in the future if it goes pop, and you have to repeat the job all over again!

Edited by EuroCarParts

The Sachs one mentioned is uprated as the original doesn't have enough clamping pressure for the extra power. Some of the o.e flywheels on these cars are Sachs but most are LUK as I thought were the clutches. You can tell by looking through the inspection hole in the bell housing (I believe it's called that) to tell which brand of flywheel you have.

I got my flywheel and slave cylinder from Euro car parts who beat a rival companies quote by quite a margin.

  • 2 years later...

The Sachs one mentioned is uprated as the original doesn't have enough clamping pressure for the extra power. Some of the o.e flywheels on these cars are Sachs but most are LUK as I thought were the clutches. You can tell by looking through the inspection hole in the bell housing (I believe it's called that) to tell which brand of flywheel you have.

I got my flywheel and slave cylinder from Euro car parts who beat a rival companies quote by quite a margin.

 

Is this possible on a MY12 vRS? I was under the impression the only way to establish which one was to strip it down!

Shark fitted a Sachs Clutch to mine along with the remap.  The whole caboodle including the DMF.  Was a bit juddery at first, which Tony advised me about. This soon settled down and now feels just like a std clutch, not noticably heavier, just works nice and smoothly.  The judder and vibration under power has gone too.

Shark fitted a Sachs Clutch to mine along with the remap. The whole caboodle including the DMF. Was a bit juddery at first, which Tony advised me about. This soon settled down and now feels just like a std clutch, not noticably heavier, just works nice and smoothly. The judder and vibration under power has gone too.

I agree that they feel like stock if you use your car nearly every day, but go on holiday and hire a car then return to a Sachs installed car -OMG they're stiff!

Thanks Martin, shame no reply to your post as to where the inspection port is. I want to be able to identify the make before ordering the clutch, as no point trying to fit a sachs clutch to the luk flywheel.

Sent from my ME301T using Tapatalk

Thanks Martin, shame no reply to your post as to where the inspection port is. I want to be able to identify the make before ordering the clutch, as no point trying to fit a sachs clutch to the luk flywheel.

Sent from my ME301T using Tapatalk

Ahh I didn't see I'd posted. It's underneath, quite easy to find when your under the car.

Ahh I didn't see I'd posted. It's underneath, quite easy to find when your under the car.

OK, don't suppose you have a picture? 

No I don't but it's easy to find and view with a torch.

Getting a sachs fitted next week, but with original dmf as there is nothing wrong with it.

Sent from my ME301T using Tapatalk

Did you find the inspection hole, is it an LUK flywheel?

Make sure you get a new concentric slave, pointless putting it all back together then finding the extra clutch pressure wrecks the slave.

I didn't look, but skuk, tps and the chaps at shark checked the reg number and all came back with a sachs unit fitted. Slave cylinder will be ordered tomorrow, presumably just the boggo standard oe version from the dealer?

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Edited by stever750

Yeah or euro car parts had luk when I ordered mine.

Got a sachs compatible part number from tps yesterday. In no rush, as the original oe clutch has stopped slipping, at least in 3rd and 4th anyway. Might be months before I actually need to change it.

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  • 1 month later...

Do any of you have a part number for the uprated sachs clutch ? I am trying to decide on the best route to take on my vrs. I'm shark stage1 but have all the hardware to go 2+ now. All was fine @ stage1 until I've fitted induction kit and full exhaust. Knowing my luck my clutch will be LUK. What are my options then ? Can I completly replace with sachs uprated clutch and Sachs DMF ?

I bought mine from Jkm performance. Very knowledgeable and great customer service. I'm sure they could help you out. Thoroughly recommend the Sachs too.

Skuk, tps etc should all be able to confirm whether you have luk or sachs clutch. Part numbers on my shark receipt are 883082 01422 sachs cover 240mm VAG, and 881864 999502 sachs plate audi / vw 240mm organic.

Seeing as my OE clutch seems to have taken on self healing properties I might be selling it soon!

Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk

And yes, to be absolutely sure you could change the clutch and DMF to sachs irrespective of what's currently fitted. That's how I understand it.

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