After replacing my drive belt thanks to the help of people on here (many thanks!!) I tested my alternator clutch as there is a funy noise when the air con or heater is on. It does spin only one way. However, its quite stiff, and doesn't spin freely. Is this normal? Or should it spin freely?

Start the car with the aircon off, bonnet open and wheels straight ahead and observe the tensioner. Turn the steeringwheel so the car is on full lock, observe the tensioner. Turn on the aircon, observe the tensioner and now with the aircon still on put the wheels in the straight ahead position again and observe the tensioner.

Does the tensioner bounce at any time, if so when?

Start the car with the aircon off, bonnet open and wheels straight ahead and observe the tensioner. Turn the steeringwheel so the car is on full lock, observe the tensioner. Turn on the aircon, observe the tensioner and now with the aircon still on put the wheels in the straight ahead position again and observe the tensioner.

Does the tensioner bounce at any time, if so when?

Hi, I will check this tonight when I finish work. By the way, I was refering to the alternator pully. Can the tensioner pully be faulty too if it is bouncing? And is a small amount of movement normal? Or should it be dead still.

Hi, I looked at it yesterday and when the air con is on the tensioner jumps about. What do I need to replace?

After replacing my drive belt thanks to the help of people on here (many thanks!!) I tested my alternator clutch as there is a funy noise when the air con or heater is on. It does spin only one way. However, its quite stiff, and doesn't spin freely. Is this normal? Or should it spin freely?

sounds like it's on it's way the one I PM'd had the grease on the middle(rachet)"bearing" turning to charcoal whillst the inner and outer were fine but what a racket it made!!! I'd take the hint and get a new pully there are different styles while the going is good--best of luck

Thanks for the help cheshire. However I am a little confused. Is it the tensioner that needs replacing or the alternator clutch(the one I said was bit stiff)?

Thanks for the help cheshire. However I am a little confused. Is it the tensioner that needs replacing or the alternator clutch(the one I said was bit stiff)?

I'd change the alternator clutch and whilst its being done you could also check the bearing on the tensioner pully, if a little rough some can have their seal pealed back and bearing regreased (not done one on a Skoda) my understanding is the alt'clutch is what makes the tensioner work overtime--have a search on you tube for a vid' I think it was put on by LITTENS who make the alternative version

I'd change the alternator clutch and whilst its being done you could also check the bearing on the tensioner pully, if a little rough some can have their seal pealed back and bearing regreased (not done one on a Skoda) my understanding is the alt'clutch is what makes the tensioner work overtime--have a search on you tube for a vid' I think it was put on by LITTENS who make the alternative version

Hi, Thanks for the help. Much appreciated. I think I will replace it. Just out of interest, incase you know. Is it just a case of a normal torx bit on a breaker bar to undo it? Probably a T50 from my guess.

Hi, Thanks for the help. Much appreciated. I think I will replace it. Just out of interest, incase you know. Is it just a case of a normal torx bit on a breaker bar to undo it? Probably a T50 from my guess.

The alternator requires a special tool to remove the pulley. There are two different tools from sealey, one is an SX401 and I think the other is an SX400, one is cheaper because it has less attachments.

You will also require plently a penetrating oil and a hefty portion of brute force, or an air gun.

The alternator requires a special tool to remove the pulley. There are two different tools from sealey, one is an SX401 and I think the other is an SX400, one is cheaper because it has less attachments.

You will also require plently a penetrating oil and a hefty portion of brute force, or an air gun.

and a vise might help too

and a vise might help too

It would need to be a big one. I used a ratchet strap to fasten the alternator to a bench. The tool works by the inner part holding the axle of the alternator stationary whilst the outer loosens the pulley.

On my old Polo (1.9 SDi) I had a string of broken tensioner bolts. Turned out to be the Alternator Pulley. After it was replaced there were no more problems.

Sounds like yours will be the same problem.

Rob.

So.... How stiff should the alternator clutch be? Mine can be turned relative to the alternator pulley by hand but not super easilly.

 

Should it be pretty much free one direction?

 

Thanks!

 

 

I my experience there is some resistance in the freewheeling direction but if its making the tensioner bounce about its no good and needs replacing

I think mine is ok then! just i do seem to get some jumping around when driving then taking my foot off the accelerator. ( I can't see the tensioner at this point unfortunately)

 

Anybody know if the AC compressor on a pd100 axr has a clutch or what. my AC pipes are destroyed from a previous owner crashing. Anyone know if having the AC compressor spinning without any gas is bad?

 

Thanks!

 

the heat dries out the grease which then becomes hotter and slowly turns to coke/carbon then seizes up  slow but accelerating process with age miles and heat  should be easy to see if it has a clutch or not  it's not the gas but the lube which is the problem has someone shorted the supply and return pipes?

Thanks for the info

 

the AC comressor has just a pipe attached that is damaged and has a hole in it. Guy i bought the car bought it as cat C  and never fixed the AC. Otherwise running pretty good just a bit shaky when starting from slow or when starting from cold. Not convinced it's belt related but unsure what else it'll be