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DPF light.......how often

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Higher rpm on tickover, engine cooling fans continue after the engine is turned off, a drop in mpg on the dashboard.

Thanks.. I had the higher tick over recently, wondered what it was.. :D

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Unless I've missed someone posting it....check the oil level. In the summer when mine was serviced the guy refilling the engine oil overfilled it, quite a bit. Because of this I was finding the DPF light coming on at least once a week and just before they took the car in to drain the oil and put the correct ammount in it was coming on every day regardless of how I drove.

So that would be my advise check the oil level now. I've a PD170 vRS

Cheers for the link.....well the inevitable happened and the glow light, warning and limp mode came on on way home from work, about a mile from the dealer I bought it from (non Skoda). My concern is what they are going to do with it, they say they can do exactly what Skoda do but I'm not sure I believe them. Skoda dealer said they can have a look at it tomorrow but obviously at cost (computer check and forced recent.... Anyone know how much I can expect to pay?).

I know of a company who do forced regens for 35, not skoda though but gives you an idea I guess.

Cheers for that, I'd love to know what a forced regeneration actually was as I see and hear it mentioned all too often. The article a couple of links above is useful, but doesn't explain in enough detail about the forced regen process. For £35, it can't be a whole load of work

I'm guessing a forced regen will involve holding the engine at an increased tick over to raise the exhaust gas temperature enough to turn the soot deposits into ash at the same time as instructing the ECU to begin the regeneration process (computer diagnostics / software).

Basically drive the car into the garage, plug it in to the computer which then automatically increases the engine rpm and forces the DPF to do its thing?

It'll probably be an hour’s labour charge as I don't think there are any consumables used.

According to the link on a VAG dust particulate filter you should get the DPF light on at 55% capacity. If the requirements for a regen are not met and the DPF reaches 75% capacity this is when you get the engine management light, glowplug light and end up in ‘limp home’ mode in addition to the initial DPF light.

The garage can still attempt a regen at this point but if the filter is allowed to reach 95% capacity then it is game over and a new DPF is required.

I’m assuming the software required to increased the rpm and instruct the ECU to begin the regen is widely available so I would be inclined to believe that the supplying dealer will be able to help.

My concern would be that despite making the effort to allow the car to regen itself it hasn’t worked, even if the garage is able to force a successful regen it sounds to me as though you may be in the same situation again sooner than you’d like? Perhaps there is an underlying issue. The link does mention that the DPF relies on a number of different sensors – one of which may not be working correctly?

I'm guessing a forced regen will involve holding the engine at an increased tick over to raise the exhaust gas temperature enough to turn the soot deposits into ash at the same time as instructing the ECU to begin the regeneration process (computer diagnostics / software).

Basically drive the car into the garage, plug it in to the computer which then automatically increases the engine rpm and forces the DPF to do its thing?

It'll probably be an hour’s labour charge as I don't think there are any consumables used.

According to the link on a VAG dust particulate filter you should get the DPF light on at 55% capacity. If the requirements for a regen are not met and the DPF reaches 75% capacity this is when you get the engine management light, glowplug light and end up in ‘limp home’ mode in addition to the initial DPF light.

The garage can still attempt a regen at this point but if the filter is allowed to reach 95% capacity then it is game over and a new DPF is required.

I’m assuming the software required to increased the rpm and instruct the ECU to begin the regen is widely available so I would be inclined to believe that the supplying dealer will be able to help.

My concern would be that despite making the effort to allow the car to regen itself it hasn’t worked, even if the garage is able to force a successful regen it sounds to me as though you may be in the same situation again sooner than you’d like? Perhaps there is an underlying issue. The link does mention that the DPF relies on a number of different sensors – one of which may not be working correctly?

great post, thanks. In the process of arranging new dpf filter job through the dealer, they claim its not a w/tee item but the car is not 30 days bought yet, so any issues and I'm afraid I'll be returning the car 'unfit for purpose' and asking for my money back. Then again, if they do decide to put a new DPF in, I assume the car should / will be in a position where I would want to keep it (in the knowledge that the dpf is new??)

a further thought on this.......the dealer told me the scan on the car showed no faults and that the sensors were working as they should be, this led us to discuss replacement of the DPF and I am awaiting their authorisation from the dealer tomorrow. My question is....if it did need a replacement dpf, would this not show as a fault on the scan?

Last thing I would want to do is argue the toss to get the dpf replaced, only to get the car back and have similar problems (due to that not being the actual problem in the first place!) :doh: :no:

Edited by liverpoolphil

JML DPF cleaner....interesting, whats peoples views on this stuff?

I have used this in mine, I was getting the same, regens all the time. This has cleared it up very well. Also, I have read up about the regen process. It states to drive the car at 2000 - 2500 rpm in 4th or 5th. This is to keep the temp before turbo over 700 degrees c. If you put it in 6th and do 2000 - 2500 rpm the temp before turbo drops (I monitored it with VCDS). So keeping it in 5th at about 65mph burns off perfectly.

Anyway, as for the JML, I think it is definitely worth it mate. emoticon-0148-yes.gif

Edited by Deneo

update on this, car going in for a brand new DPF on friday :) Hopefully will be the last of these issues

Hopefully will be the last of these issues....or maybe the beginning :dull:

picked car up tonight, the told me they replaced the DPF and had to replace one of the sensors (temp sensor) as it got threaded when bing removed. It was 6pm when I could pick it up so the "techies" were gone. Got 1/2 mile fown the road, DPF, glow plug flash and engine management light come on, back into limp mode :(

Back to the dealer tomorrow morning :'(

  • 4 months later...

Was this ever sorted ?? I have just experienced the 'limp' mode allthough my car is allot older than yours, and would be interested to know the outcome of yours ?

just a general DPF question..> Ive heard banded around that it would cost £1000-£1200 to replace a DPF. Why so much ? Is it the part price or the labour involved to fit it ? Is that a dealer price ? Can you get it replaced much cheaper at an independant or is it just best done at a dealer ?

I ended up having the dpf completely removed, after repeated problems following a new dpf install. Car is like a completely different car now, improved mpg, much smoother and generally a really nice car to drive (how it should be)

Why so much ? Is it the part price or the labour involved to fit it

Think its a bit of both TBH, the part isnt the cheapest and we all know the dealer labour charges are in a league of their own. I actually found out that the dealer (non skoda) I bought my car off had a non-skoda dpf fitted, a bit naughty IMHO but overall cheaper I guess.

Edited by liverpoolphil

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