My car (mk 2 2007)went for it's MOT a month ago,I was told it would need new discs.Last night the brakes were squeaking.

I'm wanting to do the disc's and pads myself to save money.Do I need any special tools to do the job ?

I was a YTS mechanic 20 years ago,the only main problems i remember from then is forcing the piston in the caliper back with a large grips.

any advice would be great.

thanks

James

Get a piston windback tool as cheap and makes the job easy..........measure the total thickness of the new pads and discs, then push the piston back so that there is this same gap plus an extra 2mm (whilst doing this put a hose on the caliper bleed nipple and undo it to let the fluid out instead of forcing it back through the ABS unit!). Then copper grease the metal back and sides of the pads where they make contact with the calipers (thin layer).....also put a bit of blue (medium strength) loctite on the caliper guide pin bolts.........

Torque setting from my other tech post

FRONT BRAKES:

Guide pin bolts for FSII & FSIII calipers = 28Nm (21lbf ft). Always copper grease for bushes and use "blue" threadlock on threads!

Guide pin bolts for C54-II caliper = 30Nm (22lbf ft). Always renew.

Mounting bracket bolts for C54-II caliper = 125Nm (92lbf ft).

Brake disc splash shield bolts = 10Nm (7lbf ft).

Brake disc = none given, older VW used to state low value of around 10Nm (7lbf ft).

Thats assuming thepiston is the wound type. I know on the mk5 golf andmk2 octavia chassis the rear pistons require a piston winding tool, but the fronts were able to be compressed/pushed back in.

Not had a achance to look at mine yet

Front pistons just push in

I replaced mine at the start of the year & if I can change them anyone can

Matthew

Front piston is straight push in......I know....(rears are wind clockwise and push)....just that the tool makes the job easier!....should have made it clearer in the above post....

Front piston is straight push in......I know....(rears are wind clockwise and push)....just that the tool makes the job easier!....should have made it clearer in the above post....

large water pump pliers/grips do the job easy peasy.take the brake fluid resevouir cap off and just push it all the way back don't faff about measuring.then just pump the brake pedal once fitted and replace cap

Edited 20 December, 201114 yr by barrheadred

take the brake fluid resevouir cap off and just push it all the way back don't faff about measuring.then just pump the brake pedal once fitted and replace cap

The trouble with that method is that you can overflow the resevoir and it can affect the seals/valves in the ABS unit and or the master cylinder.....which is why I stated the more accepable longer way above......

nope.thats why I said take the cap off then push back.surely for the novice out there this is a much easier way rather than running the risk if

1.rounding the bleed nipple

2.not clamping hose hard enough and leaking fluid everywhere and having to re bleed the brakes.

3.clamping too tight and damaging the flexi

both ways work just as well but I think this is easier

Edited 20 December, 201114 yr by barrheadred

nope.thats why I said take the cap off then push back.surely for the novice out there this is a much easier way rather than running the risk if

1.rounding the bleed nipple

2.not clamping hose hard enough and leaking fluid everywhere and having to re bleed the brakes.

3.clamping too tight and damaging the flexi

both ways work just as well but I think this is easier

If the brake fuild is at the Max mark and you start pushing the pistons into the calipers the displaced fluid from the calipers goes back into the resevoir and could flow out the top of the resevoir, which is why it's better to drain the excess fluid from the bleed nipple!

1. use a long reach socket to undo it initally (and a bit of penetrating oil) then use a ring spanner to open and close it with the hose attached.

2. hose on bleed valve should be some clear plasic piping (from B&Q) that is a tight push fit on bleed nipple (this is what I use and never had a problem. I use a clear glass jar to run the pipe into.

3. never needed to clamp the flexi brake hose to the caliper, and it should never be done (in my opinion) as it can damage the hose braiding!

It might be a bit longer but it is alot better!.....

If the brake fuild is at the Max mark and you start pushing the pistons into the calipers the displaced fluid from the calipers goes back into the resevoir and could flow out the top of the resevoir, which is why it's better to drain the excess fluid from the bleed nipple!

1. use a long reach socket to undo it initally (and a bit of penetrating oil) then use a ring spanner to open and close it with the hose attached.

2. hose on bleed valve should be some clear plasic piping (from B&Q) that is a tight push fit on bleed nipple (this is what I use and never had a problem. I use a clear glass jar to run the pipe into.

3. never needed to clamp the flexi brake hose to the caliper, and it should never be done (in my opinion) as it can damage the hose braiding!

It might be a bit longer but it is alot better!.....

sorry mate my mistake I thought you posted to clamp the flexi when undoing the bleed screw,but just re read it.my dislexic''ness kicking in lol

just a small point.if the brake pads are worn down the chances are the level won't be at full.

any hoo I guess we will need to agree to disagree