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how to tell if remapped?

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evening guys, i had my vrs in my local skoda dealer today (robinsons norwich) having the central locking fixed ( done new lock module fitted) when i picked the car up they said they had changed the coilpacks as they noticed they hadn't been changed (skoda update or somthing?) now driving the car it feels more savage in power like it's been mapped!!!! the previous owner said how he thought the car had been remapped and i said i had owned a remapped one before and it didn't feel like it! having driven my lcr to look at the vrs didn't feel as quick as that, i now have driven then back to back again and the vrs now feels as savage as the lcr!!! would the coilpacks make that much difference? the vrs had no misfires flat spots etc decent mpg etc to indicate a running issue.

so how can i tell if the car has been remapped without sticking it on the rollers?

Get a boost gauge on it (even if you fit one temporarily and have the tube running out under the bonnet and in through the window)

If it's boosting higher than 10psi then its remapped - stage 1 remaps are about 14-15psi peak boost

Or if you know anyone with VCDS you can log the boost on there (think it needs to be the full version though)

If you think it feels as quick as a Leon Cupra R (225bhp BAM engine) then I would say it's likely to be remapped!

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i will be wanting a boost gauge in the future, will have to see if anyone local has vcds.

thanks.

Jamie, was yours ever remapped, it seems to peak at 11.5ish and hold around 8 but seems to come on very strong at certain points then flatten off?

On a quick note, what was the cost of the central locking fix & what were the symptoms?

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On a quick note, what was the cost of the central locking fix & what were the symptoms?

drivers door wouldn't lock by remote or key, all other doors were fine also drivers mirror wasn't working needed a new drivers door module/ aculator cost was £200.

Hmm mine doesnt unlock by the fob, key works and locks on the fob.

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Hmm mine doesnt unlock by the fob, key works and locks on the fob.

yep i normally do things myself but after reading on here the list of options i thought it best to take it in and have done rather than

going through different bits here and there.

Jamie, was yours ever remapped, it seems to peak at 11.5ish and hold around 8 but seems to come on very strong at certain points then flatten off?

Hi mate - mine is still going strong then? Have you done much to it?

No mine was never remapped. I had it after a lease company I think who had it from new from Caffyns at Ashford so I doubt the lease company would have let the owner remap it, and I never did anything to the engine apart from the Forge DV and panel filter.

I wouldn't take the Liquid Gauge as being 100% accurate, but it's always run really well for a standard VRS, ran an average of 188bhp and 179ft/lb torque when we had it on the rolling road in Canterbury back in 2007.

If it's got flat spots in the boost might be worth thinking about replacing N75 and some of the hoses. I replaced one under the inlet manifold when I had it (that had a split in it) but there may be other hoses etc. starting to deteriorate at that age.

Hi Jamie,

yeah she is still going strong, not done much apart from a service, but she is due in to the garage in Jan to have the G60/VR6 clutch/flywheel plus a few other bits in preperation for a remap :D

I was going to order some silicon breather hoses, so will get that done. I did notice on the liquid gauge you can check the operation of the N75 and it does seem to be responding right.

Hi Jamie,

yeah she is still going strong, not done much apart from a service, but she is due in to the garage in Jan to have the G60/VR6 clutch/flywheel plus a few other bits in preperation for a remap :D

I was going to order some silicon breather hoses, so will get that done. I did notice on the liquid gauge you can check the operation of the N75 and it does seem to be responding right.

Yep, N75 always seemed to be working right according to the LG. There are a few things on the engine that could be past their best - it's never had the MAF or spark plugs changed as far as I know and the coilpacks could still be the pre-recall ones but they never seemed to cause any problems so I didn't bother getting them checked or replaced. If you're getting it remapped live on a dyno the tuner will probably do a few runs first and then check all the pipes/valves/MAF etc if they think it's not running 100% on the standard map before they put the remap on.

Would be interested to see what its like with a remap and the G60/VR6 conversion, maybe if theres a Castle Combe thing next year or a Briskoda national meet we could meet up?

(sorry to hijack the thread - PM me back so we don't clutter it up!)

Get a boost gauge on it (even if you fit one temporarily and have the tube running out under the bonnet and in through the window)

If it's boosting higher than 10psi then its remapped - stage 1 remaps are about 14-15psi peak boost

Or if you know anyone with VCDS you can log the boost on there (think it needs to be the full version though)

If you think it feels as quick as a Leon Cupra R (225bhp BAM engine) then I would say it's likely to be remapped!

speaking of a BAM engine - would it be a better bet to upgrade the vrs motor to a similar spec or is it possible just to drop in a BAM motor from the Leon (is it the same spec engine in the TTs and S3s or are they better again than the Leon motor)I am just thinking what is cheaper. Is a BAM motor a direct replacement that can be bolted in or will it be tha case that it will not fit due to things like a bigger turbo or other anciliary parts bolted on in different places to the Octavia ones? is there anyone on here who has transplanted an S3, TT ot Leon motor into their octy?

please let me know

See other thread re. BAM engine. There are a few people on here who have done BAM conversions or who are running the K04 turbo on the AUQ lump

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