iddy bibby box

wicked little sub

http://www.jlaudio.c...r-systems-93133

iddy bibby box

wicked little sub

http://www.jlaudio.c...r-systems-93133

Price is wicket too

£199 they use to be

although i may be getting the feeling im the only that doesnt see that as a bad price

whats your budget mate?

300 quid for whole setup(including sub). I mean I can go without sub, it just a question where to put it. I don't want ANY box in me boot. So if I can get shallow sub in side compartments, I might go for it.

not jl audio then

vibe might be worth a peek?? i dont know from experience tho but for the budget you got its a name that seems to h

ld up pretty well

if you can get alpine r types ( again unsure on price ) they use to have a good strong rep

maybe a nose about on ebay..... ive sold of jl stuff for next o nothing so you should be able to build a set up well just be abit aware of gitbags out to do you

i sold a jl a4300 for under a ton and it was mint

i'll keep my eyes open, if i see anything i'll stick up a link mate

Just do the speakers and amp now leaving the sub until later / never.

As long as you put in sufficient power cable (and your linked one looks like plenty), you shouldn't end up duplicating too much work if you add stuff later. You could even run the subwoofer RCA cable from the head unit to the boot area while you're doing the front + rears feeds, so that's power and audio signal ready to plug into the sub should it ever materialise

Right...

The shallow fit one you linked looks pretty good, comes in around 4" should be poifec'.

I'm going for an odd option- running 1 channel as the left hand side (front & rear), 1 channel as the right hand side (same again) and bridging 2 channels for the sub.

This allows me to run all 4 speakers and a sub, with a nice full sound.

It's also fairly easy to do.

Also going to try a little recommended tip from someone here- running the power for the amp under the car in some well-protected trunking, then coming up in any of the underfloor grommets I can find.

I would say the sub in the access point is a great place for it, I still have all my boot space (I need it as a surveyor!).

Just do the speakers and amp now leaving the sub until later / never.

As long as you put in sufficient power cable (and your linked one looks like plenty), you shouldn't end up duplicating too much work if you add stuff later. You could even run the subwoofer RCA cable from the head unit to the boot area while you're doing the front + rears feeds, so that's power and audio signal ready to plug into the sub should it ever materialise

Mhhh, good idea. Do all the wiring and if i want sub later on (probably never) i can just stick it in.

So I need RCA cable from headunit to AMP, earth cable from AMP to chassi and power cable from AMP to battery. And then just connect speakers to AMP? :wonder: yes?

You'll need 2 RCA pairs from the head unit if you're amplifying the front and the rear speakers. 3 if you're whacking in one for the sub while you're at it.

Also the remote switch-on from the head unit.

Finally the power from the battery to the amp, then a short earth outward from the amp.

Once that's all in you'll feed speaker cables from the amp back to the 4 corners. That's all!

If you installed a sub / amp later you'd add a power distribution thing in the boot, save you running two power cables as I've just done before it got dark. The remote switch-on you can just split in the boot.

You'll need 2 RCA pairs from the head unit if you're amplifying the front and the rear speakers. 3 if you're whacking in one for the sub while you're at it.

Also the remote switch-on from the head unit.

Finally the power from the battery to the amp, then a short earth outward from the amp.

Once that's all in you'll feed speaker cables from the amp back to the 4 corners. That's all!

If you installed a sub / amp later you'd add a power distribution thing in the boot, save you running two power cables as I've just done before it got dark. The remote switch-on you can just split in the boot.

OK, so how that remote switch on cable looks like? :S

Edited 6 January, 201214 yr by hunker7

Remote switch wire is normally Blue and should be labled from rear of head unit or can use electric arial supply. Only has to be thin gauge as not carrying any power just enough to turn on Amp when head unit is switched on.

Thanks everyone for help. Now, just 'DO IT' left. :clap:

Unless of course your not worried about front to back fading and your 4 channel amp can run all for channels from 1 set of rca in

Or a tasty 5 channel that will run a whole system from just the single rca lol

Just strip the seats n run them thru

Goodluck bud