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Servicing How-To

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Is there one on here nocking round for servicing the 1.9 TDi lump (the 130bhp version if it makes a difference)? After being less than happy with the last idiots who serviced it, i've decided I'd rather do it myself. Pollen filter, air filter, and the fuel filter seem pretty straight forward. Is that the oil filter in front of the fuel filter (in like a plastic canister). I'm using an oil pump/extractror rather than the usual, drop the sump plug off and put a bucket underneath, purely because I don't have access to a ramp an I don't fancy crawling about on my back in this weather! Plus easier to take down the tip to dispose of it. Any advice gratefully recived

It's simple to service but I would not use the pump in the dipstick method, IMO it's not worth it as you leave all the gunk in the bottom, I jack my octavia up on a trolley jack to get under it.

I have the 110 tdi and the oil filter is infront in the middle under the cover which would be to the right of your car. It has a black plastic cap about 4 inches is diameter. Hope this helps.

An oil extractor works just fine and leaves no gunk in the sump provided a thin tube inserted inside dipstick tube is used, not just the dipstick tube. Make sure you insert the oil extractor tube until it touches bottom of the sump. No gunk left in the sump using this method (and using the sump plug does not magically shift stuck dirt either).

Plus using oil extractor you get actually about 0.25l more dirty oil out of the engine because you can vacuum the inside of the oil cooler (through holes inside oil filter housing).

Larger manually operated vacuum extractors work best, e.g. Sealey TP series.

Small, ball type extractors (e.g. Pela 6k) also work but are not so good for operating single handed while vacuuming oil cooler. Decent electric oil extractors that do not leak and have sufficient power cost 5x-10x manual ones...

I've been using oil extractors for past 8+ years, I even opened engine sump plug at 4 and 8 years on my Octavia and Superb, no traces of gunk or any other stuff in the sump.

I would not use the pump in the dipstick method, IMO it's not worth it as you leave all the gunk in the bottom,

What "gunk"?!

Have you ever removed a sump plug and bits have fallen out with the oil? If you have then I'd say your engine has fallen apart and an oil change isn't going to save it.

What "gunk"?!

Have you ever removed a sump plug and bits have fallen out with the oil? If you have then I'd say your engine has fallen apart and an oil change isn't going to save it.

Yes, not the dreaded metal fillings or anything like that but thicker lumps of oil yes, everytime on diesels and petrols ranging from 25,000 to 90,000 on the clocks.

I've never used a pump but I have been warned off it by other forums, my local garage and my mates, I'm just passing on my opinion from what advice I have received.

  • Author

Yep I'm going for the Sealey one. I know plenty of people who use these without any issues. So am I right in thinking I can get at the oil filter from the top of the engine?

Yes, look for big black round oil filter cap, screw in/out by (gloved) hand on a warm engine. Replace o-rings, coat them with oil before putting on the car, that way the cap will not get stuck.

Regarding gunk, yes, you can have residue left over in the engine, but only if a numpty who changes oil does it on a cold engine, AND uses dipstick tube itself and put a hose over it, instead of putting thin plastic/metal extractor tube into the dipstick tube. Dipstick tube does not extend right to bottom of oil pan, so you'd always end up leaving some oil (1l+) in the engine. On a cold engine, that oil will be thicker and dirtier than the rest.

If you use extractor tube properly, ie insert it all the way until it touches sump bottom, and do the oil change on a warmed up engine, you can get so much oil out that nothing will flow out of sump plug if you are bothered to check it.

Edited by dieselV6

  • Author

Fantastic, big pictures mean I shouldn't really balls this simple job up!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

What an absolute doddle! Done within an hour, only issue I had was the oil filter top, got hold of the specific wrench for it and it came off with ease!

What an absolute doddle! Done within an hour, only issue I had was the oil filter top, got hold of the specific wrench for it and it came off with ease!

Hope you used a PD engine compatible oil :thumbup:

  • Author

Of course! :)

Of course! :)

Sweeet.

I'm gonna have to buy that Sealey suckie. Too old to crawl under the car. And that aero shield is always a pain to remove too....

  • Author

It's a fantastic bit of kit, just takes all the hassle of jacking the car up and removing belly pan's etc. Won't be going to a garage again for servicing and at least I know the jobs been done right!

It's a fantastic bit of kit, just takes all the hassle of jacking the car up and removing belly pan's etc. Won't be going to a garage again for servicing and at least I know the jobs been done right!

Exactly and precisely spot-on right!

I have a Super Classic 1.9 pd, 2004 been using the dipstick vacumn pump since 2005 and never had any trouble. Now 99,000 miles

You can also empty the oil filter housing of oil, quite a fair bit of oil is left in there

I also use it at my work, never had an engine fail yet in over 10 years of use

  • 8 months later...

Looking to do this tonight. Bought the mannesmann oil sucker - hopefully it does the job.

I was a bit more concerned about doing the fuel filter. Is this a straight swap? I've seen somewhere about priming the new fuel filter? Do I need to put some fuel into the new one before starting etc?

Thanks

I have a Pela 6000 pump purchased for just this job, I have to say I was sceptical at first after reading other forums saying "it leaves crud in the bottom of the sump" and "it doesn't get all the oil out" etc etc. So being the unbeleiver that I am I tried an experiment.

Ran engine until oil warm. Jacked car and threw some stands under it. Removed sump plug and allowed oil to drain. Replaced sump plug, then tried using the Pela ... got about another coke cans worth of oil out of the sump. Fairly happy with it to be honest. If you're just dropping fluid from the car at home without the benefit of a garages ramps, oil catch pans, etc etc it makes the job a lot simpler and cleaner. Also the oil is caught in a container ready for ditching at your local council tip.

The Pela is pretty good. I paid £30 some time ago. You only need pump it about 25 times and it does the rest. Also, a nice idea is the catch container has lines on the side signifying 1 litre intervals so you get a resonable idea of how much oil you've just taken out.

Seriously, an oil change can easily be done in about 15 minutes, 20 tops ... 5 of those minutes is just watching it suck out oil, so you know you should at least try look busy for that bit. Grab yourself a brew.

Did my oil with the Mannesmann and I was very impresssed. I managed to get about 4 litres out as I nearly emptied my new 4 ltr tub of vw507.

The other bonus, I can use the Oil sucker to prime the fuel filter.

One question though (and I'm not trying to open old wounds, as I know this is a hot topic), but If I resign myself to service every year/10,000 miles, is there still any advantage in using vw507 spec, or is normal 5w/30 ok? ie, is the advantage of vw507 its ability to last longer, or is it actually better for the engine anyway? Just for the record, I have NO intention of stretching my service to more than 1 year/10,000 miles now (have got 133,000 on the clock).

For the record, I'm not asking the general question of "vw507 or Fully Synth" - only if there is an advantage of one over the other in a yearly service.

I hope that makes sense?

Thanks

Syanide

If you have DPF, only VW507 oil will do as it is ashless. Do not use anything else or bye-bye DPF. I do not think any Mk1 Superb had DPF factory fitted though, even the 2.0TDI nightmare used a different, AdBlue system.

For any other TDI engine, I have been using 505.01 synthetic for past 75k+ miles, the car seems to be fine. The VW XXX.01 (stress on '01') spec is important as it provides increased protection against cam lobe wear, common problem on 1.9 and earlier versions of 2.5 (though for different reasons on each).

My car has 2 oil changes per year, 1 in autumn, 1 in late spring. Note this means that in summer I do 10k-12k miles, in winter 8k-10k, as oil works much harder in winter. The car has 105k m+ and no signs of trouble. And if you have a look at my other posts, I often drive across Europe at 80%+ engine power for hours at a time (think 130mph+ ). So I'd say as long as you use VW505.01, VW506.01 or VW507 oil you will be OK, the last two will let you extend service intervals.

Price difference between 507 and 505.01 can be 30%+ if bought at the same shop.

Edited by dieselV6

guys where would i find out what oil to use for my engine its a 2007 1.9tdi comfort. is there somewhere on the car i can look? thanks in advance.

guys where would i find out what oil to use for my engine its a 2007 1.9tdi comfort. is there somewhere on the car i can look? thanks in advance.

It'll tell you in the handbook.

I'd assume it's an 1896cc PD engine, and if it doesn't have a DPF (which I don't think it will) then 505.01 should be OK, otherwise you need the 507.00.

thanks i dont have a handbook but i,ll get one .

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