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eletrical problems

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Hi all,

my wife and i each have a superb, hers is a 1900 TDI elegance 2003 model

and i have a problem with the electrics, its the same as others, rear interior lights work but not the front and so on, i have done some reserch about the CCM under the carpet and my questions are,

do you need to take the passenger seat out?, if so is there going to be a problem with the air bag

i am going to take the battery out and clean the drain holes, so i would assumn that im going to lose the radio code, is there a way of stopping this as i dont think i have it anymore.

is here anything other advise that i need.

oh and by the way the car has a sunroof if that makes a difference!!!

mine is a 2000 tdi elegance with sunroof again,

and this has the following problems

the central looking on the passenger door somtimes does not lock

the "orange coil light" on the dash is coming up and the display is saying that it needs to go into the workshop. now my friend has the equipemnt to find the faults but the code relates to "a partical filter"(i think it was) which my friend say my car hasnt got, only french cars have it???? any ideas

thanks in advance :)

Edited by padsman

Sounds like yours is a 2.0 tdi, so it does have a DPF in the exhaust, and it sounds like it's either been clogged up or your additive tank to aid DPF regeneration has run out, so you need a major service and this tank topping up. This is a dealer item and I think most people who have been will tell you the cost is north of £300 just for the DPF fluid top-up, plus all the rest.

It could be much more than this for example if it is deemed that the DPF has reached the end of its useful life. Then it's into 4 figures.

  • Author

Sounds like yours is a 2.0 tdi, so it does have a DPF in the exhaust, and it sounds like it's either been clogged up or your additive tank to aid DPF regeneration has run out, so you need a major service and this tank topping up. This is a dealer item and I think most people who have been will tell you the cost is north of £300 just for the DPF fluid top-up, plus all the rest.

It could be much more than this for example if it is deemed that the DPF has reached the end of its useful life. Then it's into 4 figures.

thansk Oh_Superb, Good job its a company car then :rofl: should this happen at 75000.00 miles??,

Yes the seat needs to come out to do the job properly, there is a way to put the radio into remembering the code - it's in the handbook, can't remember how to do it off hand.

Providing you do not turn the ignition on with an airbag disconnected then you will be fine, if you do then the airbag light will come on and you will need VCDS to clear the light and code.

Also the sunroof drains can block up, check they are clear by running a hose down each drain.

The 2.0 has a DPF and a tank in the boot that needs topping up by a dealer, they also suffer from premature oil pump faliure - do yourself a HUGE favour and research this .... then get shut ASAP.

The MKI Superb is a great car once the water ingress has been cured, but the last thing you need is a time bomb waiting to go off with the PD140 engine! (this is the only engine with the crap oil pump drive - the 1.9 is bomb proof!)

EDIT just seen it's a company car, so not your bill when it fails - just don't be tempted to buy it!!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

ok update, last wk end i took out the front seats and carpets ect, to find a swimming pool underneath the carpet, i dried it out, and then took a look at the CCM which was completly dry??, with no signs of corrison at all. but the problem persists.

i did start to trace back the wiring from the front interior lights and found where the wires go into the conectors in the passenger footwell, so i took the conector apart and wired a lead direct from the battery and bingo the lights came on...

now the wife has come home tonight and has lost all lights to the inside, but the rears still work if you move the switch from door switch to on all the time,

so im now wondering if its the switches that tell if the doors are open, this leads me onto my next question, where are these switches, as there is nothing on the door shuts?????

HELP PLEASE :-(

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

any help guys,

The switches are in the door lock itself.

99% certain that wont be the problem though, it nearly always is the nodes (wiring joints) under the carpet that lead to the failure of the lights etc.

You need to chase all the wires back that are low enough to of been in water and any wires going bad (black or green copper) cut them out and replace them.

One question though, if it is a company car then why are YOU doing this?

  • Author

sorry,it my fault, this is the wifes car, and i just want to get it sorted for her :wall:

If you've had the water ingress (which it sounds like you have), the wires inside the nodes will be corroded.

There should be a cluster of about 8 or so (haven't got diagram to check atm) red & black wires joined together in a single node. These are the connections for the interior lights and they corrode very easily even if exposed to damp air let alone actual water. Pull the rubber sheath off and have a look and there's a good chance there'll be some corrosion on the wires. Cut back to new clean wire, resolder and seal with heat shrink material.

There's another node of 4 blue wires that also corrodes and is linked to the interior lights that can be fixed in the same way.

Most important thing is to reseal the pollen filter housing at the bulkhead to prevent future problems like this. When I repaired mine I also drilled a 4mm hole under the CCM for water to drain out through the bottom of the car so there will be no standing water in the future even if the pollen filter seal dies again.

<a href="http://nackuk.blogspot.co.uk/2010/06/with-some-of-interior-lights-puddle.html">http://nackuk.blogspot.co.uk/2010/06/with-some-of-interior-lights-puddle.html</a>

Edited by BDZ10

I'd guess that the wires you are looking for are in the rear footwell this group of wires control interior lighting. Remove the covering from these wires and strip back each wire and reconnect using a soldering iron also use heat shrink as an insulation (i would recommend a small gas soldering very handy and precice cost around £20-30 and can also be used to shrink the heat shrink) while your at it remove the left side kick panel and using a hairdrier dry out the bunch of plugs in this area cause if dampness gets in there you will end up with an issue with the orange oil level light not being able to reset if you ever run low on oil because the bonnet open switch wires can corrode and as this resets the oil level sensor it can be a pain in the butt. There is also some other funny things that happens with dampness in the kick panel i.e dot metrix sometimes illumintes in red and in german!

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