This morning I went to lock the car and noticed the indicators weren't flashing to indicate it had locked. *this is with the remote fob.

I went back to the car and found the drivers door unlocked, and red alarm light illuminated. With it raining here I didn't want to hang around too long so locked it with the key (red light stays on) and have left it.

Before I take it down to a garage can anyone comment on what it could be? I wired in a camera a few days ago into the fuse box using a fuse round #40, but I figured if it was the fuse none of them would lock!

Cheers guys,

Andy

Having had a good search it appears to be a few things that could be causing it.

My interior light works

All the windows work

Using the key works

Interior button works

However;

Drivers side wing mirror doesn't adjust!

How easy/hard is it to replace the actuator for this? I have had the door card off before to replace the speakers, but cant remember how it is fitted on. I also have a friend with VCDS coming over to have a scan of it at lunch time, so will see what that brings up.

Could be a short in the cables where they go through the rubber 'concertina' between the body and the door?

Friend plugged in VCDS and error code ''01811 - Supply Voltage for Door Controller; Drivers Side (J386) '' came up. He suggested a break in the wires as well.

A lot of threads suggest causes, but not many suggest fixes for it. I don't suppose anyone can comment on on likely points of breakage. Door hinge will be the first port of all due to the bending of the cables I guess.

Any suggests welcomed!

Friend plugged in VCDS and error code ''01811 - Supply Voltage for Door Controller; Drivers Side (J386) '' came up. He suggested a break in the wires as well.

A lot of threads suggest causes, but not many suggest fixes for it. I don't suppose anyone can comment on on likely points of breakage. Door hinge will be the first port of all due to the bending of the cables I guess.

Any suggests welcomed!

Hi There,

I had this problem last year on my pre-FL 57 plate.

It occurred after I disconnected/reconnected the battery while I was doing some work on the car.

I then noticed that the door symbol was showing the door open, the interior light stayed on and I couldn't lock the car.

I turned out to be a door control module that had broken / blown when I was messing around with the battery.

I had to replace the module.

Unfortunately I don't know much more about it as it was someone else who did the diagnosis and sorted it out for me.

Thanks for the help mate. The light goes on/off with the door, as does the dash symbol!

Not sure if that relates to a blown control unit or a knackered wire etc... :(

Well i spent over an hour dismantling the door and doing my best to check the wires and i couldn't see anything amiss. I managed to dismantle the pass through sockets in the door frame and the one for the locking was fairly well corroded. I did my best to clean it all off, but it didn't help much. I will try and pick up some contact cleaner to see if that helps though.

The wires all seemed in fairly good nick, including what i could see within the door joint.

Any suggestions would be very welcomed!

Friend plugged in VCDS and error code ''01811 - Supply Voltage for Door Controller; Drivers Side (J386) '' came up. He suggested a break in the wires as well.

A lot of threads suggest causes, but not many suggest fixes for it. I don't suppose anyone can comment on on likely points of breakage. Door hinge will be the first port of all due to the bending of the cables I guess.

Any suggests welcomed!

I can talk you through fixing cables if you really want me to

Sounds like the wiring is OK though. You could try a continuity check and earth check, i.e. see if each cable buzzes through from point to point (needs a wiring diagram and connectors disconnected at both ends). Then make sure that you don't get continuity to earth (except for earth cables ).

I don't know where the 'Door controller, driver's side' is located', but this will help, as you can identify the supply cable and buzz this through.

If the wires are all good, then it's possibly the module. If they are not too expensive, you could try a swap out. Good hunting!

Thanks El Dingo, offer is appreciated! I am first going to try and test the continuity across the block in the door frame. There did seem to be some corrosion there from me adding an extra speaker cable to the block several months ago. Despite my best effort I am not convinced I have cleared it all.

As a result I am going to try and strip away at the trim inside to get to the other side of the door frame to get a continuity test carried out across the block.

Right...Success! The problem was a pin that had corroded off within the terminal block in the door joint. With the use of a paper-clip I managed to 'recreate' the terminal to proof what was doing it. I now need t source a replacement loom, hopefully from a local breakers yard!

Both door lock & wing mirror work again, and it was the pink/yellow wire terminal that had caused the issue. Just in case anyone find this thread suffering the same issue!

Good result - hope it's not too expensive.

My guess on the matter would have been the micro-switch that needed replacing, but good that you've solved the problem