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Couple of Irritating Problems

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OK, so my Roomie appeares to have developed a couple of problems, and I was hoping some of you kind people may be able to help / point me in the right direction as to what it could be, or what I would need to do to sort them out:

1. On turning the ignition key I get a nice crunch / grinding sound

2. The car on occassions appears to idle at a high rev than normal (not sure if those two are related at all)

3. The Aux connection does not appear to work, have tried connecting my iphone. (this isn't a huge problem, more of an irritation than anything else)

Any help that can be provided will be accepted with great thanks and humility :)

No 2 is the DPF burning soot, it usually smells at this time.

Sorry not this model my mistake.

Edited by bryanb

No 1.

My guess is the fuel pump is making that noise.

On my old car 1.9TDI PD, on ignition there was a ticking first then a small pumping noise

Can't help on the Aux socket as I've never used mine.

The noise when turning ignition on should be the fuel pump (as Togo suggests) The noise comes from the back of the car but should not be too loud and definitely not a grinding sound. Could be that your pump is on its way out.

The intermittent idle could be caused by the "fly-by-wire" throttle pedal that they are fitted with. Mine (1.4TDi too) would sometimes idle at about 1500 revs when sat at traffic lights, gradually reducing to normal revs unless you blipped the throttle when it would return immediately. Replacing the throttle pedal assembly cured it completely. From memory it was about £50 for the pedal and fitting was simplicity itself (3 x 10mm nuts and one plug/socket - takes only a couple of minutes)

As far as I know the 1.4 was never fitted with DPF - think only the latest generation diesels get that.

Good luck

Pete

Agree with Tuscan 30. To the best of my knowledge, the only version of the 1.4TDI to be fitted with a DPF was the Fabia Greenline.

Re. fast idle - a few years ago, there was an issue with the throttle position sensor (part of the throttle pedal assembly) and faulty units were replaced under warranty. There is a lot more information in the Fabia section. HTH

Coincidentally, someone else seems to be having the same issues with engine idling.

May be worth trying this reset method first - no cost involved and I doubt if there's any risk as the engine isn't actually running.

http://www.briskoda....79#entry2698779

(wonder if that would have saved me a new pedal assembly ????)

  • Author

Thank you for your help :)

I must admit I thought the sound was coming from the front end of the car, I was also reading somewhere else on the forums that it could possibly be a fault on the starter motor not engaging / disengaging properly? Any thoughts?

I have also tried that engine idle thing, but that didn't work for me :(

Aah - sorry, I misunderstood your original post. I thought you meant the noise came when the switch was put to iGNITION ON rather than "START" - that's a different kettle o'fish entirely.

You are probably correct in thinking it's the starter motor then. Obviously that'll sound like the front of the vehicle rather than in the tank and if it is grinding it sounds like a bendix or brush problem.

I'd whip the beggar out and bench test it rather than simpy replacing it - there may be a problem with worn ring-gear (flywheel teeth) or maybe there's just dirt in there.

It's a case of getting under there and eliminating the simple things first.

Battery off first though, otherwise it'll get all sparkly down there (apologies if I'm being too obvious but you've got to CYA in today's blame and claim society :think: )

  • Author

My apologies for not making myself clear :$

Is the starter a hard thing to get off, or could I do it without ramps etc?

You'll need ramps at the very least. There's not a lot of clearance under these things.

My workshop manual has stopped working (cd version) and needs to be reloaded onto my laptop - unfortunately the discs are at home and I'm in the middle of the North Sea for the next couple of weeks. Hopefully somebody with a current workshop manual can scan the required pages and send them to you.

I should imagine that it would be a case of isolating the battery, remove undertray (for access) remove electrical connections and then unbolt motor from the bellhousing. Inspect, clean, repair, replace as necessary.

Remember you may need your radio recoding after reconnecting battery.

Do a search on here for starter motor removal.

What mileage has the car done, has it done lots of short journeys thus giving the starter motor a hard life ?

Usual CYA disclaimer applies - advice given in good faith but if it all goes "Pete Tong" then you've never heard of me!

  • Author

The car was ex-mobility when I bought it, covering only 9k in 3 years, so I presume that it's done one hell of a lot of short journeys :/.

Also, could this possible starter motor problem be the cause of the high revs at idle?

Also, could this possible starter motor problem be the cause of the high revs at idle?

N'ah - the two systems are entirely seperate. Starter motor is doing nothing at all once the engine has fired.

  • Author

N'ah - the two systems are entirely seperate. Starter motor is doing nothing at all once the engine has fired.

Thats a so-n-so time to take it to the garage, sitting at high at idle is starting to happen a lot more often, will get them to check the starter motor as well, although that seems to have calmed down a bit at the moment.... oh I love cars lol

Faulty crankshaft position sensor, EGR valve, throttle position sensor, and MAF sensor could cause these symptoms. Faulty coolant temp sensor and inlet air tem sensor could also cause this as when it is cold, ECU commands fast idle.

So the car needs to be scanned with code scanner (e.g. VCDS) first.

Does the engine use a lot of oil? Check oil level, you might be surprised.

High idle could be due to oil seeping into the engine and burning - basically an engine on verge of runaway.

One possible reason could be cracked piston rings, which can happen if the car is used on a lot of short drives and cold engine, as this one. Though realistically more than 1 ring would need to crack, 2 or 3. Many if not most 1.9TDIs actually have one ring cracked (in the cylinder near flywheel), that's why many of them use more oil, but they satill go to 200k and more miles.

Another reason could be a leak from turbocharger seal.

Finally, perhaps it is worth looking at fuel quality, if you recently filled up

  • Author

OK, I have gone for the cheapest option first, and put some diesel treatment in to start with, now it's the weekend, I will check my oil tomorrow :)

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

Well the high-revs appeared to stop for a while, however they did start again, what I have noticed tho is if I put my foot behind the accelerator peddle and push it up, the revs drop back down.

About your minor issue, AUX problem, you need to put your radio in AUX IN mode to connection your external source.

What kind of radio have you got in your roomie?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Apologies for taking so long to reply

I have tried all the options that I can see for the Aux on/in on my radio, but nothing seems to work.

ps. I have the dance radio

  • Author

Well I got myself a new Aux cable, and guess what, it now works  lol

Thank you for all your help with that one :)

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