I am going to be fitting my 312mm discs this weekend (weather permitting) and would just like some advice on bleeding the brakes afterwards.

I think I'm going to get hold of one of those pressure bleeders - I have one for my MTB which is great, but unfortunately can't connect it to the fabia.

Anyway, I am going to use Castrol Super dot 4. My question is: Should I do a full system bleed (ie. start at the back and work my way round to the front or will I be OK just doing the fronts? If I am better off bleeding the whole lot, should I first of all bleed the fronts to remove the air after fitting the new calipers or would it be ok to do the rears first (starting furthest from the master cylinders)???

Thanks in advance...

I am going to be fitting my 312mm discs this weekend (weather permitting) and would just like some advice on bleeding the brakes afterwards.

I think I'm going to get hold of one of those pressure bleeders - I have one for my MTB which is great' date=' but unfortunately can't connect it to the fabia.

Anyway, I am going to use Castrol Super dot 4. My question is: Should I do a full system bleed (ie. start at the back and work my way round to the front or will I be OK just doing the fronts? If I am better off bleeding the whole lot, should I first of all bleed the fronts to remove the air after fitting the new calipers or would it be ok to do the rears first (starting furthest from the master cylinders)???

Thanks in advance...[/quote']

Helloooo

Can I have some techie advice please??? Don't want to make a mess of me motor!

Helloooo

Can I have some techie advice please??? Don't want to make a mess of me motor!

Bleed the lot. I've bled mine through with DOT 5.1 after initally only bleeding the fronts and it makes a noticeable difference, the standard fluid is completely toilet :thumbdwn:

I used a Gunson Eezibleed and the name is misleading if you have the Ibiza strut brace, it's a right bugger to get at and you have to make sure it's on tight or you'll get brake fluid everywhere. If you have the brace, you're best off removing it to do this job.

Brake fluid is nasty stuff so you wanna avoid spilling it + getting it onto your skin

Brake fluid is nasty stuff so you wanna avoid spilling it + getting it onto your skin

Too right. Wear latex gloves, can usualle be bought in boxes of 100 for less than a fiver from your friendly local motor factors... or probably twice that from Halfrauds

Do they have to be bled in a certain sequence or is there a particular method to follow to prevent air being trapped in the system?

Sure someone posted a while back about vag equipment being needed to properly bleed the system. Maybe i'm wrong here.

If you are improving the "quality" of the fluid, you should in theory bleed the ABS pump too. In order to do this, you will need VAG-COM. In reality, for normal road use it is unlikely to make any difference what so ever when the fluid currently contained within the ABS pump mixes with the new fluid.

Do they have to be bled in a certain sequence or is there a particular method to follow to prevent air being trapped in the system?

Sure someone posted a while back about vag equipment being needed to properly bleed the system. Maybe i'm wrong here.

Don't think so. What was said was that a pressure bleeder should be used instead of pumping the brakes as pumping them can reverse the seals in the master cylinder, which means an expensive trip to the Skoda parts bin. Not sure about the order, must confess I don't remember which order I did them in but it seems to have done the job!

There is a recomended seqence of bleeding, but tbh as long as the system doenst run dry you should be fine.

The sequence documented for many VAG cars is :-

The sequence described below must be followed for all four brake calipers.

1 - Right-rear brake caliper

2 - Left-rear brake caliper

3 - Right-front brake caliper

4 - Left-front brake caliper

There is a recomended seqence of bleeding, but tbh as long as the system doenst run dry you should be fine.

With the eezibleed it's pretty easy, it works at a pressure of less than 20psi and holds over half a litre of fluid at a time so you'll only let air in if you're careless.

Thankyou all for your help...

Does anyone know if I can get a spare cap that fits the fabia brake fluid resevoir? I've got a very similar set-up for my mtb and have realised that everything is identical bar the resevoir top cap... would it be easy enough to make one with an old cap from the scrappy and some rubber washers???

The sequence documented for many VAG cars is :-

The sequence described below must be followed for all four brake calipers.

1 - Right-rear brake caliper

2 - Left-rear brake caliper

3 - Right-front brake caliper

4 - Left-front brake caliper

Does RHD or LHD make a difference to this sequence?

Thankyou all for your help...

Does anyone know if I can get a spare cap that fits the fabia brake fluid resevoir? I've got a very similar set-up for my mtb and have realised that everything is identical bar the resevoir top cap... would it be easy enough to make one with an old cap from the scrappy and some rubber washers???

Don't see why not, so long as you can make it air-tight and up to the pressure. I'd imagine (but can't say for sure) that the cap is a common fitment with other VAG cars...

Does RHD or LHD make a difference to this sequence?

Nope.. Brake systems are identical.

Aim to use about 1/2 a litre per wheel, maybe slightly more for the rear.

bleeding the ABS block isnt essential, i didnt do it

Following on from this, anyone want to recommend a good brake fluid. In the past I've used Silkolene Pro Dot 4 (race spec :confused: ) on my Scooby which was recommended for me by a couple of tuning places. What's everyone on here using and where did you get it from?

Chris

If it's Silkolene, try oilman.