Changing Brake Pads on a Felica

[Zanelad]

Hello,

I am going to check the brake pad wear on the front brakes of our 1.3 1998 Felicia. I think that

they'll need to be replaced.

I've changed pads on other cars and bikes, but that usually just needs the retaining pins

to be removed and the pads taken out.

The Haynes manual makes the method for the Felicia seems rather more complex.

Is it so, or am I just worrying too much.

Any tips and advice would be more than welcome.

Thansk, Z.

[Ben Cordy]

Nah it's dead simple. There is 2 bolts that join to the sliding pins, sometimes you need to stop these moving with an open ended spanner. Once you've undone these the caplier will come off with a push and tug, then push the piston back in with a bit of wood (make sure brake fluid cap is off) and a g clamp. Then pop the new pad in the carrier bracket and slide the caplier back over. And tighten! Simples.

[Zanelad]

Nah it's dead simple. There is 2 bolts that join to the sliding pins, sometimes you need to stop these moving with an open ended spanner. Once you've undone these the caplier will come off with a push and tug, then push the piston back in with a bit of wood (make sure brake fluid cap is off) and a g clamp. Then pop the new pad in the carrier bracket and slide the caplier back over. And tighten! Simples.

Thank you. The manual mentions an open ended spanner but you make it much easier to understand.

I'll do it next week, just as well the wife's got the week off and won;t need the car for work.

[TeflonTom]

You do need quite a slim open ended spanner though, the normal type ( like snapon or facom) are a little bit too thick to get in-between the caliper and the shoulder on the bolt.. Sometimes it's easier to use pair of long nose mole grips on it instead.

[VWD]

You do need quite a slim open ended spanner though, the normal type ( like snapon or facom) are a little bit too thick to get in-between the caliper and the shoulder on the bolt.. Sometimes it's easier to use pair of long nose mole grips on it instead.

Don't know about the bolts, but I normally use a pair of cycle tyre levers to push the old pads back . Then undo bolts ,and change pads.

[Zanelad]

Well, that was easier than I expected. About an hour from start to finish, including faffing about getting everything I'd need form the garage.

Hardest bit was persuading the pistons that they wanted to retract. Eventually they agreed.

Thank to all who replied. It was certainly easier than the Haynes manual led me to believe.

Edited 28 March, 2012 by Zanelad

[colzie64]

Well, that was easier than I expected. About an hour from start to finish, including faffing about getting everything I'd need form the garage.

Hardest bit was persuading the pistons that they wanted to retract. Eventually they agreed.

Thank to all who replied. It was certainly easier than the Haynes manual led me to believe.

G clamp and a 30mm socket located inside the piston and piston retraction is a dawdle