Checked the CV joint gaiters today and noticed that 2 of the "corrugations" are showing signs of perishing. Car has done 150K+ so not surprising. I'm going to do them myself but have got some questions hopefully somebody can answer.

1. What torque setting is the hub bolt meant to be done up too before turning a further 180°?

2. What tool is it and what size will I need to undo the bolts that hold the drive shaft to the differential?

3. What is the likelihood of damaging the ABS sensor if I leave it in place? So really I am asking should I remove it or not?

4. To save me having to separate the CV joint I'm thinking of using one of those universal gaiters that can be stretched over the joint while still in one piece. Are they any good?

Many thanks for your advise on this one.

The abs sensor is no bother, they aren't bolted in, they just wiggle back a bit, no need to remove.

Inner bolts with be a spline type bolt, either m10 or m12 iirc

Stretchy cv boots are pretty lame in my experience, proper boot kit is best.

Remember the n/s shaft comes out without undoing any suspension, on the o/s I just undo the 18mm nut that is on the lower arm going up. This allows the hub enough rotation to get the joint out of the hub.

Thanks for the quick reply.

How easy is it to separate the CV joint?

Still need to know the torque setting for the hub bolt. Haynes manual seems wrong to me.

Will a CV boot kit from TPS come with inner and outer boots do you think? Or does the inner boot not perish in the same way as the outer?

Thanks again.

There is a guide on this forum (technical guides), just buy the outer CV boot kit from VAG it contains everything you need (gaitor, 2-off clips, grease, bolt, snap-ring, washer). I'd expect there is less need to do this work on the inner joint as it is never articulated to the extremes that the outer one regularly is. Oh, torque is in that guide and if I remember, its the same as Haynes quotes. You will probably need a biggish torque wrench and a bigger knuckle bar to get the final turn in without resorting to using a tube on a smaller knuckle bar.

Edited 9 April, 201214 yr by rum4mo

Thanks for the replies. Got a few more questions:

1. At the end of the job, does the ABS sensor push in and only go so far in. I.E. Is there any risk of the sensor going in to far and hitting the the sensor ring?

2. Is the drive shaft more than likely going to be rusted in to the hub?

I am a bit worried about taking the CV joint apart and am seriously considering using the stretch type boots. I know Tech1e doesn't think much too them, but are there any brands that are better than others or are they all a bit of a waste of time?

Thanks

The CV boots normally knock off with a firm thump from a copper mallet and the sensors just push in, can't push them too far.