Hi,

anyone know the pitch of this bolt? i managed to snap the head off mine when re connecting after changing the strut.

vagcat says its m10x50 but doesn't suggest what pitch it is.

also, the drivers side strut? how are you meant to remove this? or do you just need to spring compress it loads and loads? the passenger side barely needed any compression but the drivers side drive shaft doesn't allow that side to drop enough...

thanks,

toby

Jump on top of brake disc that will get it out

Jump on top of brake disc that will get it out

+1 the drivers side is harder to get out

If you get get leverage you can remove the wishbone bones to sub frame and then get lots of room, but should not have to do that. And yes you need to wind up the compressors lots.

My coliovers as wound down lots so easy to get on and off now

jumping on the brake disc sounds fun how'd you do it in reverse to get the thing back in though?

would removing the wishbone completely work out? it seemed more like the drive shaft was getting in the way? since i'm going to have to replace the passenger side one to sort out snapping that bolt off... i may as well replace the other one too?

i looked up 'm10' bolts and seems there are only two pitch options so unless VW have been funny about it i'll just get a few of each and see which fits...

thanks for pointers

You must replace both the pinch bolt and nut. It is a stretch bolt and self locking nut.

The drop link nut/bolt, strut top nut, the three wishbone ball joint bolts and triple lock nut plate all need to be replaced if undone.

vagcat doesn't list there being a nut for the suspension arm? it appears to be integral or captive to the arm itself? anyway one of them has a thread stuck in it so will be replaced with ball joint anyway.

http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/sk/OCT/2000/202/52/4370131/

this is a 1.6 petrol rather an a VRS / TDi in case there is a difference?

whats the case for replacing all those nuts?

thanks,

toby

The nuts are self locking. The bolts are stretch bolts. These are angle tightened and can't be reused.

I kept the post generic. The drop links are different on different models. Some bolt through into the wishbone - others connect to the strut and have a nut.

i see, so generic high tensile m10s can't be used?

on the same diagram was a different hub which shows the setup you described, mine was the other version...

thanks,

toby

...so generic high tensile m10s can't be used?...

No. To get the correct clamping force you need the correct nut and bolt. The thread on the bolt is critical for the locking nut, which has an 'alien' thread (no nylon insert, split, etc).

bought some new bolts, will post current part numbers later. changed wishbone and 2x strut with the remaining wishbone and ball joint tomorrow.

is there a clever trick to ball joint removal? i managed to pop the first one by tightening against the drive shaft only to be confronted but it happily spinning. hacksawed it off in the end... the other side has a different bolt and is totally solid so is also getting sawn off.

anyway, new bolts in new wishbones definate improvement.

didn't take any pictures but will include all the posts from everywhere that i used in case anyone else wants to try it out.

thanks,

toby

Edited 11 May, 201214 yr by toby

Err look at the bottom of the bolt there's a allen key or torx hole to stop it spinning lol

I re-used bolts on my lupo gti and the other halfs golf gt and were both still alive!

I didnt have to re-fit my standard shock as i fitted a much shorter coilover unit so it was simples

is there a clever trick to ball joint removal? i managed to pop the first one by tightening against the drive shaft only to be confronted but it happily spinning. hacksawed it off in the end... thanks,

toby

Apart from getting a ball joint seperator(not dear) your options are

A open spanner where you can use as a ball joint seperator or as a lever whilst undoing nuts for applying pressure.

sometimes the OEM balljoint has a allen key fixture at the bottom of it so you can use allen key or socket to hold the joint whilst undoing.

Full list of parts when I did front end overhaul and convetred my over to TT/R32

Suspension

1ML 412 331 x 2 Suspension Top Mounts

1J0 412 249 x2 Strut Bearing

N 102 07803(4) x 2 Suspension / Hub Bolt

N 10106402 x 2 Suspension / Hub Nut

Subframe

N 907 528 01(2) X 2 Rear Bolt

N 907 349 01(2) X2 Front Bolt

DOGBONE

N 102 683 02(4) X 2 (Front to Subframe) Bolt

N 905 970 01 X1 (REAR) BOLT (reused)

N 102 466 03 X1 (REAR) BOLT(reused)

Wheel Bearing Housing / Hubs

8N0407256B X1 Right Hub

8N0407255E X1 Left Hub

WISHBONE

8N0407165 X1 Left Cast Wishbone

8N0407166 X1 Right Cast Wishbone

N 103 32001(2) X6 Ball joint nuts

N 908 08801 X2 Ball Joint to Hub nut

N 904 840 03(4) X2 Wishbone Bolt (Front)

N 102 622 01(2) X2 Wishbone Bolt (Rear)

N 015 0814(6) X2 Wishbone Nut (Rear)

KIT5240CADJK x1 SUPERPRO Front control arm set

Consists of:

SPF3394K Front control arm front bushes

SPF3397K Front control arm rear Bushes (castor increase)

STEERING PARTS

N 100 155 06 (7) X 4 BOLTS

N 013 849 4 X2 SEAL WASHER(for rack union)

N 013 848 7 X2 SEAL WASHER(for rack union)

N 905 87602 X2 Wheel Hub Nut

Steering rack boot kit x 1

PFF85-416 x 1 Powerflex Steering Rack mount

1J2 422 105 x1 TT Rack

8N0407365C x 2 Ball Joint(Hub)

8N0422803D x1 Tie Rod Left

8N0422804D x1 Tie Rod Right

8N0422811A x1 Tie Rod End Left

8N0422812A x1 Tie Rod End Right

Jesus that lot would cost half of the car