I had a friend bleeed my brakes, amd the pedal was spongy, so i took it to a garage, who bled 3 wheels up, pedal getting harder and harder..... then on last wheel pedal goes soft (i think they let air in by not topping up res) took fotr test run weak brakes and flashing handbrake symbol.....

they had the car today also and saying they not happy with it, and will ring me in the morning, is there a trick to this or are they being thick??? I need help as they seem to have made no progress

Any help is more than appreciated, i havent had my car for a week now and work becoming difficult

Edited 21 May, 201214 yr by DSS199

Has to be bleed using a pressure bleader not pumping pedál as it fecks the seal on the master cylinder

The owners manual doesn't mention a pressure bleeder?=(

if this is true, how do you fix ?

Edited 21 May, 201214 yr by DSS199

also need to do all four, futhest away back to nearest brake to MC, then do the MC itself, whilst not letting the level get low and reintroducing air in. Its good to have someone on board to get them just to keep the level topped up whilst you do everything else.

But if the master cylinder seal has been damaged, how would i know/ fix

i did my old mans mk4 golf, and it was back, front, clutch, master cylinder. on hose clutch is on the same system

But if the master cylinder seal has been damaged, how would i know/ fix

no fixing,replace the master cylinder

I want to buy this vacuum pump to bleed the brakes.It sucks the fluid from the bleeders

try bleeding it again in the correct order first, ensuring no air is introduced, if it still doesnt work, then you may have to look at the MC

Another garage has said bring the car in and they will look, they think it the MC or the vaccum

dont assume the worst, i know you are not meant to bleed vag cars by pumping pedal, but have seen it done numerous times without damage to the MC, i still think by the sounds of it it needs bleeding properly, including the MC bleed, if that wasnt done, there will be air in it, due to letting the level drop

Ah, i dont know if they will have tried this.... can anyone quide me on pumping through the MC ?

same process, 2 bleed nipples iirc, under the mc, fiddly to get to, do the furthest away from the seal, then the nearest to the seal (bulkhead), whilt drawing fluid with the pressure bleeder

They sure are fiddly to bleed the blighters on the master cylider, unless you happen to have flare nut spanners with a wickedly bent handle. Last time I just cracked them off with a socket and let the fluid fly (using a pressure bleeder). Brake cleaner got rid of all the evidence. (Just had to cover my nice poly bushes first!!!

Well garage say the master cylinder is knackered so new original part £100

Wow expensive mistake

Yup thanks, note to self, dont let a friend work on your car.... as a mechanic

Ah ha!!!!

Fixed.... without new MC, garage (following advise from you top lads at BRISKODA) Tried a pressure bleeder, and hey ho!

Its done..... Phew

A big thanks to all that commented and suggested you saved me £100

whoop whoop well done just remeber in future pressure bleeder

I will..... just hope others have read this and avoided the panic

Glad you got sorted - its hot enough at the moment without extra need to start sweating

Well relatively sorted, if i push pedal hard it sinks a little and goes soft

that's not good

I know tell me about it, i have a mate who has a garage, bit of a drive away who says it may be the vacuum pipe, so will let him have a look at somepoint

Also the car does stop relatively well, can still lock wheels etc, the pedal does not go to the bottom

Edited 28 May, 201214 yr by DSS199

Well brakes appear fixed..... hard pedal, but now i have ASR and TCS lights on permanent, is there a way to clear these to see if they come back? with a diagnostic box....

Getting fed up now lol

Where about are you m8?