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Skoda Superb I- Top ten least reliable cars


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Can this be true

Copied from Daily Mail 29th May 2012

"Top ten least reliable cars

At the other end of the scale, the Renault Espace (2002-) tops the list of motors that most frequently need repairing - according to Warranty Direct data, the breakdown rate is 74 per cent a year on average.

Mercedes R-Class (2006-) also has a breakdown rate of 74 per cent, but the repair bill tends to be slightly lower than that of the Renault Espace.

Other cars that make it on the list for having faults are the Vauxhall Vectra (2002-09), the Renault Grand Scenic/Scenic (2004-09) and the Renault Megane (2002-09). Including the R-Class, there are three German models in the bottom ten - it is joined by a pair of VWs, the Passat and Touran.

Make/model Claim/breakdown rate Largest claim Most common reason for claim

Skoda Superb (02 -08) 55% £3,691 Axle & suspension

Renault Espace (02 -) 74% £2,757 Axle & suspension Mercedes R-Class (06 -) 74% £1,816 Electrical issues Vauxhall Vectra (02 -09) 57% £2,524 Axle & suspension Renault Grand Scenic/Scenic (04 - 09) 57% £2,422 Electrical issues Renault Megane (02 -09) 56% £2,250 Electrical issues Skoda Superb (02 -08) 55% £3,691 Axle & suspension Peugeot 807 (02 -) 48% £4,975 Cooling & heating system Volkswagen Passat (05 -) 47% £2,224 Axle & suspension Peugeot 407 (04 -) 46% £3,701 Braking system Volkswagen Touran (03 -) 46% £2,595 Axle & suspension

Electrical issues and axle and suspension troubles cause the majority of claims, with the latter often a result of a collision with a pothole or other road defect, according to Warranty Direct.

Meanwhile, the Peugeot 807 attracted the largest individual bill with a claim for repairs totalling nearly £5,000."

Read more: http://www.dailymail...l#ixzz1wI43U1hF

Edited by ramonford
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Well, if you believe Warranty Direct stats, do not buy one.

I enjoyed 100k+ trouble free miles from new, suspension still drives as new, the only thing I did to suspension was to change shock absorbers in time. Yes the suspension is complicated but quite durable. CV boots that I replaced 3 so far in 6 years are the only "axle" problem I can think of, if untreated it does require CV joint replacement.

Electrics issues are well known plenum chamber flooding and ground connections under floor corodding, all Passats also had it. But as long as cabin air filter housing is re-sealed before the problem occurs, no electrical issues.

Bottom line that I can see is that in 10 years neither of my Skodas left me on the roadside, which is a very good result considering I often travel on 2000+ miles round trips, a significant portion of it on poor quality roads.

Edited by dieselV6
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The 2.0 TDI is in those statistics...
I know someone that has an A6 with that engine, its started to cost a fortune with not the slightest bit of embarassment from Audi - other than repeat repair work. Followed by "the EGR fault has wrecked the cat" followed by " noticed A/C is corroded needs replacing" followed by "PAS pump is badly corroded it will need replaing at next service" followed by "vibration that appeared just after last repair is a failed DMF and clutch" followed by "we've replaced that new DMF and clutch under warranty so it will not cost you anything other than a new PAS pump"! Now this is on an 07 car with 85K miles - and all of these repairs have been carried out by a reputable Audi dealer and all over the past 4 months - this guy has been an Audi man for 15+ years, its his first 2.0TDI - previously it has been 1.9TDI he is now talking about getting a M-B but I keep telling him nothing else can go wrong, so far I've been wrong!

Initially this started with the oil pump pin, then, does this engine have a balancer shaft? - if so, its timing "went out" which caused severe vibration - which without knowing this engine, I suggested that maybe the garage had misstimed the balancer shaft while doing the oil pump sfix.

Edited by rum4mo
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All the N-S 2.0 PDs are balancer engines. There is a special tool needed to lock the primary balancer shaft in its correct position whilst the crank is held at cyl 1 TDC with the belt locking tool. The drive gear is then fitted on its slotted holes (like the ones in the camwheel) to maintain correct balance timing. The backlash is set by means of a special coating on the intermediate gear which wears off and sets the running clearance.

If you get the balance timing wrong the engine will run like a bag of bricks.

If you run a VAG car you must be well informed and be prepared to get help and advice from informed sources. Choose the right vehicle and look after it properly and high mileages are possible - but there will always be idiot failures like CV joint boots and door locks/windows which you don't generally see on Japanese vehicles. You have to decide whether or not you can put up with these in exchange for a decent diesel engine.

I can - just.

rotodiesel.

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