Hi I have got to change the rear discs on my 2002 superb .Do I need to replace the guide pins and if so does anyone know where I can get some from

no need to replace gudie pins, you can get them from dealer, but why replace them unless they're stuck?

Remember if you are replacing discs, then you should also be replacing the pads - which should come with new guide pin bolts that will have blue Loctite "paste" on them. I have found that getting the discs off usually means removing the calliper mounting brackets. As the bolts on these tend to have a rough "selflocking" surface inside the bolt heads that gets crushed a bit when tightened, it might make sense to replace these bolts - I tend to replace them at every second disc change - but others might disagree.

yes, you should replace guide pin bolts when caliper is out, and of course change the pads, but why the calliper mounting bracket bolts? The disc just slides off as long as caliper is removed, no need to remove caliper mount.

yes, you should replace guide pin bolts when caliper is out, and of course change the pads, but why the calliper mounting bracket bolts? The disc just slides off as long as caliper is removed, no need to remove caliper mount.

I agree. Just be careful not to scratch the disc against the caliper mount when removing it.

Also don't forget that the piston needs to be retracted using a special tool that rotates as it pushes it in. WIthout rotating the piston while simultaneously pushing it in, it will get damaged.

yes, you should replace guide pin bolts when caliper is out, and of course change the pads, but why the calliper mounting bracket bolts? The disc just slides off as long as caliper is removed, no need to remove caliper mount.

I've read that a lot, but on my cars I tend to find that I might hammer the disc out but the new one will not fit in - Passat is 4WD though.

Must be the 4WD thing, on FWD you actually get a guide bar ("Tommy bar") with the car to use when removing wheels specifically to prevent the rear discs dropping off as they do not have a mounting bolt, the wheel bolts hold them.

To prevent rear discs seizing on the hub and any trouble during disc/caliper removal, do the brake job after a drive, on warm wheels/brakes, and coat the hub face with very thin layer of urea grease, or silicone grease. Just make sure the amount of grease is least possible, so that it does not flow out. Same treatment on top of disc, where the wheel mounts, prevents the wheel seizing to the disc. In my experience, only rear wheels tend to seize/stick, had it a couple of times before started using grease on hub and disc mounting face, front ones never caused me this trouble.

Hammer on disc = unuseable disc, out of alignment, sometimes takes a few hundred miles to manifest after the job. For disc replacement it's OK, for other brake/hub jobs really a bad idea. Also you can shorten the life of wheel bearing if the shock from hammer blow transfers to rollers (usually does not though, unless the disc is seized solid to the hub).

Edited 1 June, 201214 yr by dieselV6

No I'd never hammer out discs that were to be used, merely quoting others that seemed to get discs out that way without removing the mounting bracket. The 4WD cars also get the "tommy bar" - and yes I believe VAG do call it that even after two wars! In fact, I've bought an extra plastic one for my wife's Polo even though it does have screws to hold the discs in place, as it makes wheel changing easier - and on a cold wet night that might be handy. Also, for garage use, I've bought an Audi A6 etc (longer) aluminium "tommy bar to make wheel changing easier. I seem to remember taking the discs of both our current cars when they were almost new - and copaslipping them - so the hub faces are still shiny metal after 12 and 10 years. I remember the last Ford disc that I replaced, it was just down to the wear limit - the swept surface part just "flew" off when I hit it with a hammer, the centre section had to be given a bit more help!!

Edited 1 June, 201214 yr by rum4mo