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Best Chip For AGU Engine

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I am helping my best friend in find info in order to buy the best chip for his Skoda 1.8T AGU.

I have send several e-mails to JABBA about this and they have NOT reply me :mad: Do any body knows sombody there so they can have the amability and decense to reply.

Today I send a e-mail to ABT. I hope they reply.

My question are:

Is there is a chip better than the other?

Which one you recomend me for the AGU engine?

Since I live in Central America, can they send me the chip and I install it myself???? What is need to intall the chip? Or it requires a special set up? Do the car computer has a socket were I put the Chip or do I has to desolder the factory chip put a socket and install the new one.

Since the car is in under Guarante, can the dealer find out if the car has a Chip when they conect the VAG tool? And if they find it can they reset or erase the chip program?

This is the first time in my live that I going to modifie a car, so I really apreciate your help.

:cheers:

Isaac

Hi Isaac,

the answer to your questions are:

Are there chips better then others?

-Yes, there are.

Wich one do you recommend for the AGU-engine?

-Most of the chiptuning companies develop specific products for specific engines. So, it's difficult to recommend you one.

Can they send me a chip?

-I wouldn't try this form of upgrade. It's very risky, and they would probably want you to send your AGU-engine ECU-box to them so they can re-program it. Not good!

What about warranty?

-Well, warranty would be void the same time you insert a new chip.

Will they detect it with their VAG-tools?

-Probably, If you're not using APR or Revo chip. But it's better to be honest and tell the dealer your car is chipped.

Can the dealer erase my ECU?

-From what I've heard they can, but as long the chip-software you've chosen is encrypted they cannot.

I can send you some instuctions on how to unmount the ECU-box on the car Isaac. But either way the tuning-company would want to use the stock ECU-box to program another because of many other things that are stored on the ECU.

Because you live in americe, i'd recommend the APR chip. Try this link. Ask them your questions and hope they can help you.

Cheers,

FD

p.s. Isaac, if you want me to put some instructions on unmounting the ECU-box, PM me!

Turbo Boss

Jabba Sport ONLY do customised re-maps, which means you would have to take your car to them !

As I went to Panama in January, I know that this is a LONG WAY !

This is probably why they have not replied to you ?

Hey, I'm in Colombia. I got the Upsolute chip, and I really doubt any "custom" remap is any better. The advantage of the AGU over other cars is that it's got less electronics. You can get an Upsolute chip and a boost controller for the price of the "custom" guys. With my boost controller I was able to get 1.2 bar from the stock turbo, and I think at sea level the Upsolute chip is only supposed to go up to 1 bar. Here in Bogot

Also, and this is purely from assumption, I believe that the guys from Jabba are very much hands-on and not internet geeks like some of us. Email might be an easy medium to use, but for most businesses it involves a lengthy procedure with dial-up, etc.

With most companies their presence on the net is just that, a bigger banner than found in the back pages of Evo magazine. A telephone call is a much better medium for these.

Also, regarding more info on AGU, search on vwvortex.com for AGU. You'll get my entire project.

Speedy G

  • Author
Originally posted by Speedy G in this post

Hey, I'm in Colombia. I got the Upsolute chip, and I really doubt any "custom" remap is any better. The advantage of the AGU over other cars is that it's got less electronics. You can get an Upsolute chip and a boost controller for the price of the "custom" guys. With my boost controller I was able to get 1.2 bar from the stock turbo, and I think at sea level the Upsolute chip is only supposed to go up to 1 bar. Here in Bogot

You don't need the boost control. All I'm saying is that Upsolute is by far the cheapest, and performance doesn't really get much better than that. However, if you really want to see what the turbo maxes out at, get a boost controller, since our cars (AGU) don't have drive-by-wire that gets in the way. The chip alone will get you 1 bar (190hp), the boost controller on top of that will get you to 1.2 bar.

Automatics and drive-by-wire cars are much harder to mod, but Upsolute chips are available. However, since they have bigger turbos, they can get an extra 20hp (212hp) out of just the chip. For Upsolute numbers, check their web site.

You can send your ECU to Henry Lochner in Venezuela and he can install it, or you can get it installed locally and he'll send yo the chip. It requires skills in soldering surface mount chips.

Speedy G

  • Author
Originally posted by Speedy G in this post

Automatics and drive-by-wire cars are much harder to mod, but Upsolute chips are available.

You can send your ECU to Henry Lochner in Venezuela and he can install it, or you can get it installed locally and he'll send yo the chip. It requires skills in soldering surface mount chips.

Speedy G

Tranquilo Speedy G, aca en Panama yo puedo conseguir alguien que me aga ese trabajo de desoldar y poner un socket para instalar el nuevo chip.

Para mi importarlo directamente de USA no es mayor problema.

Me puedes ampliar porque es mas problematico para un carro automatico:confused: :confused:

Como te dije mi carro es un 2002 AGU automatico.

No tiene V V T

No tiene Drive by Wire

No tiene Cruise Control

Si no es con un chip que otra cosa le puedo poner.

Que sabes de la valvula N75 Race valve?

Gracias,

Isaac

:confused: indeed

  • Author
Originally posted by Turbo_Boss in this post

Tranquilo Speedy G, aca en Panama yo puedo conseguir alguien que me aga ese trabajo de desoldar y poner un socket para instalar el nuevo chip.

Para mi importarlo directamente de USA no es mayor problema.

Me puedes ampliar porque es mas problematico para un carro automatico:confused: :confused:

Como te dije mi carro es un 2002 AGU automatico.

No tiene V V T

No tiene Drive by Wire

No tiene Cruise Control

Si no es con un chip que otra cosa le puedo poner.

Que sabes de la valvula N75 Race valve?

Gracias,

Isaac

Dont worry Speedy G, I can get somebody to make the solder here in Panama.

Can you explain me more why for a automatic car like my 2002 AGU L&K without V V T, Drive by Wire and Cruise cotrol is more dificult to put a chip???

If not what about a N75 race Valve

Thx,

Isaac

I didn't know L & Ks were AGU. I thought you'd have one of the 180hp electronics to the wall models. Still, I've just heard automatics have different chips, or less chips available. The lack of electronics is a real blessing when it comes to modding. Henry in Venezuela has installed ATP kits on pretty much every possible 1.8t. He may be a good source of info.

Regarding this forum, I think this sort of topics are best posted in English for everyone's benefit, since there's little info about modded Skodas out there. I had to risk quite a bit getting GTI stuff for mine, and most of it worked. The ATP downpipe, I think would've been cheaper to get the separate parts (1 x 3" U bend, 1x 3" 90 deg bend, some straight piping, the flexible part and some flanges.)

Speedy G

The best way to know if there is a chip for your car is to remove the ECU, take a photo of the sticker and send it to Upsolute (or any other chip programmer).

The problem is that in USA they aren

  • Author

Yes, thats the same some people has toll me. I going to take out the ECU this saturday and will taking pictures of the sticker and the inside of the ECU.

I was reading that APR has a gadget that you can reflash the factory chip inside the ECU without desoldering. I think REVO has something similar.

I already have send e-mails to this companys to find out and knows ALL my options before I decide myself to spend the $$$

THX,

Isaac

Good luck getting APR to do an AGU flash without the ECU. Those are usually done at Euro prices... expensive. Revo won't do it since there's no dealer near you. Don't take my word for it. If you can get Revo to flash your ECU, I'm next.

Speedy G

  • Author

Hey Speedy G, Thank you for this info. BTW today I call Henry at UPSOLUTE Venezuela and talk to him.

He is asking $300.oo for the chip.

I am going to take out the ECU this saturday and I will going to take pictures of the sticker and the inside of the ECU to send them to him.

Also, I will take the ECU to a electronic guy to see if he can do the desolder and solder.

:cheers:

Isaac

Only you, me and Fabia online this time of night. Well, don't expect me to know the answers to any questions about chipping or mods ! :D

Good luck! If you need any other info, just post it. I have done quite a bit of research on the AGU engine. Next week I'm getting the peloquin installed. I'll review it after it's done.

Speedy G

  • Author
Originally posted by Speedy G in this post

Good luck! If you need any other info, just post it. I have done quite a bit of research on the AGU engine. Next week I'm getting the peloquin installed. I'll review it after it's done.

Speedy G

What is a PELOQUIN????? :confused:

Also, do you have a Turbo Timer on your car??? Can you still use the Factory remote control to lock your car when the engine is running with the TT ?

Isaac

Nah, I don't have a turbo timer so I don't know about that. I prefer just to drive slowly when getting home, that way the turbo cools down quite a bit.

A peloquin is a limited slip differential or LSD. It means that when you step on it in a turn, it'll allow only a limited amount of slip on one wheel, therefore still powering the other one. It's great since I now have serious traction problems. It also replaces the weakest point inside the transmision which is the stock differential. I need this for drag racing and to be able to put 300 hp at the wheels (350bhp or engine horsepower).

Speedy G

  • Author

Today, I was trying to get out my ECU but I has a problem.

I took out both of the wipers then its was imposible to remove the black plastic trim under them. That plastic trim look like it was glued to the winshield edge.

So how the hell do you people remove that plastic trim.

Any tip???

I am thinking to take the car to the dealer so they take out the ECU but they will going to know I am going to put a chip and will void my guarantee:(

Isaac

Turbo, it's called a scuttle panel (I've only just learned this :D), and it is indeed almost impossible to remove. You will probably have to remove the windscreen as well :(

I watched it being done at Jabbasport last week and it only took a minute or 2 only, although it loked fiddly to do. Remove the long thick rubber sealing strip which runs across the rear of the engine bay in front of the scuttle, then ease the black plastic trim up from the centre working outwards towards the wings. The edge in question is that inside the engine bay - the windscreen edge stays attached. As I recall, it is necessary to ease up the left and right hand sections to make a big enough gap to unplug and remove the ECU.

Had a look at ETKA. The part is called trim for windscreen frame and there are left and right sections. But like lots of other parts - eg coil packs - what we commonly call it and what the parts list calls it are different!

Sorry I must go in spanish in some details.

Turbo Boss:

Go as told by DGW.

From there:

Levanta con una mano el pl

Spanish:

Si destacas el rociador de parabrisas que esta montado en el centro, la operacion sera mucho mas facil. Destaca la pequena tapa de plastico con un pequeno destornillador, y una tuerca de 13 mm, y se puede destacar facilmente el rociador. Si destacas los dos rociadores, puedes destacar completamente el plastico de un lado.

El plastico esta locado en el borde trasero con friccion solamente, se puede levantarlo con los dedos o un destornillador, y pues reemplacarlo con presion. Cuidado con levantar demasiado el plastico en el lado derecho (junto al filtro de aire) porque esta fijado con un otro ensamblaje debajo y seria facil romperlo.

English:

If you remove the central wiper arm it will all be much easier. Pop off the plastic cap with a small screwdriver and remove one 13mm nut then the wiper arm will lift off. If you remove both wiper arms you can remove one half of the scuttle panel completely.

The scuttle panel is just pressed on along the rear edge. You can lift it up with your fingers or a screwdriver and it will just press back on afterwards. Be careful lifting it too much at the right hand side near the airbox as it's bonded onto another assembly underneath and will break.

Phew!

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