Bears no resemblance to the maxi dot oil temp reading? My temp gauge normally sits in the middle - 90 degrees. However the maxi dot reading can range from 50 to 120. Rarely do they match! Kinda odd. not too bothered, in fact I might turn the maxi dot one off.

The analouge gauge is water tempt i belive.......but it never seems to move

The Engine coolant circulates in the engine untill up to running temp, approx 88 degrees celcius,

then the thermostat opens and allows the Coolant around the whole system.

At the current ambient temp of 14- 16 degrees celcius, this takes my car about 4-5 minutes.

The Oil in my car is taking 5-6 miles at 60mph to get to 50 degrees celcius.

& around 8-10 miles to get to 88 degrees celcius.

You will possibly see this can change greatly if the oil level is low,

or with different oils.

Quantum is running and showing a couple of degrees celcius higher than Castrol Edge or Mobile 1.

ie Mobile 1 might stay at 90 degrees at 70-80 mph where Quantum is at 92-93 when there is the same Ambient temp.

'Antifeeze/Summer coolant' is important as is the oil as an engine coolant.

Your radiator is sitting with coolant at a pretty constant temp & the oil will get hotter and be brought back down to the lower temp again, near the 'Water/Antifreeze temp, ie 90 Degrees, the fan is there to get the temps to the best operating temp and stop overheating. Well thats the theory & mostly the practice.

george

Ones water, ones oil.

Not surprising they ain't the same.

Well not actually 'water' (H20)

because that has a different boiling and freezing point from the Coolant Ratio we run in vehicles these days.

HOAT or OAT does depend if there is Water,

as we run 'G12 Plus' , which i would only use with Deionised water to mix to the correct ratio,

not just from the tap..

george

Well not actually 'water' (H20)

because that has a different boiling and freezing point from the Coolant Ratio we run in vehicles these days.

HOAT or OAT does depend if there is Water, or as we run 'G12 Plus'.

george

Thanks for the lesson

Not meant for you, you know it already i would imagine..

Stuff like , Boiling point at different pressures, Triple point, impurities changing Boiling and Freezing points etc.

All just basic 1st year mechanics training.

george

Had the Maxi dot to 123 allready so there is more then 50-120

Here are various tales of Temps & high temps.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/235544-average-vrs-oil-temperature

Ah. I see. Reading different things. That makes sense now. Silly me

Thanks for the lesson

Awesome

I am always good for a laugh.

But i do try not to give duff Gen that can be harmful or expensive to those that just take what others say..

You can always check quite easily if i am talking cr4p or just stuff that is Basics to running cars without problems.

george

If you log coolent temps with vcds you will find the guage hits 90 before the temp actually does through vcds. Also guage never seems to go above 90 where as vcds can show temps in the 100's

I am always good for a laugh.

But i do try not to give duff Gen that can be harmful or expensive to those that just take what others say..

You can always check quite easily if i am talking cr4p or just stuff that is Basics to running cars without problems.

george

George from what I've read on several of your post you seem very knowledgeable so keep them posts coming, you would make a great teacher

If you log coolent temps with vcds you will find the guage hits 90 before the temp actually does through vcds. Also guage never seems to go above 90 where as vcds can show temps in the 100's

Yep - its a placebo gauge. Imagine how many cars would be returned to garages if it kept hitting 100 degrees every time it came to a standstill.

Quick story (slightly OT) - early Jags with the V12 (which is designed to run hot) had a temp gauge with degrees on it. Normal operating temp was around 95, and would regularly hit 100 or 110 - all fine as its a pressurised system. Cue loads of customers coming back stating its boiling (as it went over 100 degrees), Jaguar fix - change temp gauge to have "C", "N", and "H" zones. Change handbook to state that as long as the gauge stays within the (wide) "N" band, all is well. No more complaints...