If you have not had your Alloy Wheels off the car since you bought it, then maybe do not assume that your local friendly Dealership workshop has.

(Can you change a wheel at the roadside if you needed to?)

Best check your Spare wheel & tool kit, Locking Nut socket etc, & the jack.

Then see if the Alloy wheels will come off the car.

Best then to get some Copper Slip between the hub and wheel for the next time the wheels need to get changed.

Maybe time to Check the Pads while you are there.

george

This is after they have had a wipe, the corrosion had quite a build up.

These needed a good kicking to get them off, which is not a good idea when sitting at a roadside on the Jack that is in the tool kit.

or it would need a BFH of the rubber mallet style.

Bolt cover removal tool is missing from mine, dealer didn't care and told me to buy one from elsewhere. Grrr. Hope mine aren't like this!

Take mine off every month to clean and do arches anyway

Did ours at 3 months old when swapping on to winters last year and they were already starting to seize on,

Did mine a few weeks back as had a puncture and couldn't get the wheel off! Had to call Skoda Assist and guy got it off with the aid of big nylon mallet! All wheels subsequently removed, wire brushed and a dose of copper grease added. Quite common according to the mechanic, although that may have been to make me feel better.

Nice new Dark Chromes from Skoda today, (warranty) so lets see if these can stay unmarked.

(these were on a recent purchase vRS, not on my own.)

Head mechanic was full of good advice on allways grease before refitting the wheels.

Not to pleased when i told him that VAG/Skoda should do that when they first fit them,

&

now that they know how bad they get in no time, they need to do a wheels off and copper slip/grease at the First or second service,

because they are going to be some mess by the 3 years and brake fluid change on any vRS that has the wheels not removed before the warranty is up or near up..

george

I've got a bigger related horror story.

Not too long ago I bought an Audi TT,just over 3years old.(Same VAG wheel bolt system)

I'm assuming the wheels had never off since fitted on the production line.

Three I removed with various degrees of difficulty,wheel bolts very tight,wheels corroded to hubs.

On the forth wheel,despite all efforts, the Magard bolt would not shift.

Eventually my good friend who is a mechanic spent two hours with an air grinder grinding off the head of the bolt.

The wheel came off but the hub was then heated red with a blow torch so that the remains of the bolt could be unscrewed from the hub.

...and the moral is put copaslip/grease on the mating faces of the hub/wheel,I personally keep the wheel bolt threads greased (I know some don't recommend this but this is what I do)...also the design of Magard lock bolts is not that good IMHO.

If they tyre isnt flat then loosen the bolts half a turn and take a slow drive around the block , that normally shifts them

I found ones that wouldnt come off with a rubber mallet come loose after going over a speed bump

I would never grease a wheel bolt , better too tight that too loose imo but i remove my wheels and clean the faces and bolts with a wire brush fairly often being one of those obsessive detailing types

Regarding greasing/oiling of wheel bolts I've never understood how the presence of it can have any influence when the bolts are properly tight,in that situation you will surely have metal to metal contact of the threads with the lubricant playing no part at that point of the situation.

If you are having your car serviced and rarely touch it yourself you need to appreciate that most garages don't remove wheels during routine servicing.

So if you are a low mileage driver and therefore your tyres and brake pads last for several years your wheels stay in situ, with the studs rusting in the hub threads and the back of the alloys corroded onto the hubs....so previous advice should be heeded.