Hi!

Maybe someone on this forum experienced similair engine failure and can give me a advice to fix the problem.

Im running a 1999 1,8 20v octavia 1999. It has since last week been stopping suddenly few times due to engine cutouts. It is rather nerve wrecking to commute to work now.. It takes 30-60 min before its possible to start. It can suddenly fire up like nothing happend and the engine spinns like a cat again.No sign of any fault codes.. also my dials are going mental but guess thats an seperate issue. I found one of fuses on top of battery was almost melted.. took it out but noyhing happend car was still running!

what u say? Known issue? Greatful for ideas!

Mine cut out and woukdnt start then it would run for about ten seconds turned out to be maf, unplug that give it a run and see

Check all the cables around the battery for good crimps (inc. starter motor and alternator), I suspect one of them has a high resistance and is getting hot. Also ensure all the fuses nuts are nipped up tight in the battery fusebox.

One of the fuses might be your radiator fuse, so the car might appear ok, till it gets tooooooo hot :-)

Dash gauges being all over the shop is probably a voltage regulator issue on the PCB. Pulling out a fuse will resolve it (short term), but the car will forget trip mileage, etc each time it is stopped. Have a search on here, it is a pretty common issue with the older cars.

If one of the fuses in the battery fusebox had overheated, I'd start by checking all the connections on it and on the battery itself.

Not only could that cause cutting out, but it could also cause intermittent and/or low voltage to the instrument cluster which can give you not just erratic instuments but disco idiot lights too!

Thx for all advices! I will get to it immidiatly! Let u know if i find anything. Guesse i need new fusebox for the battery. Will check with maf or without. But it usually goes for 15-20min before it dies.

Next time it cuts out, go straight to the battery and check how hot the terminals and fuses are.

Havev been checking wires from top of engine not under(some desperado stole my garage lifter) couldn see anything strange. Do you guys think its good idea to change the fuse holder on top of battery or is that bad idea? Migth melt again? havent been doing any trips with car latly scared to get stuck some nasty place...

Try changing the fuel Filter... My engine used to cut out all the time when i was on less than half a tank of petrol.

Changed the Fuse Box on top of the battery, to no avail.

Removed the Fuel pump and found the petrol in the Tank was really dirty.

Cleaned up the dirt and then changed the fuel filter.

The fuel gauge would also jump around the place... when i'd idle the car, the fuel gauge would drop drastically, like if i was on a half tank, it would drop to less than quarter and stuff like that. Even the Distance to Empty [DTE] read out would drop when i would idle the car.

After the Fuel Filter change, the stalling stopped, the car became more responsive and low RPMs and it revvs though it's range smoother and quicker.

I also sand papered the contacts on the fuel gauge sensor on the fuel pump.

Usually the fuse box problem lights up the dash like a xmas tree

If there's no fault codes id check all the earths for corrosion. Could also be the fuel filter. Personally id clean all the earth leads, change the fuel filter and is the airfilter ok? Need air fuel and spark for it to run lol

What exactly does it do when you try and start it?

Sent from my Galaxy S2 not a Crapple!

One possibility is a faulty ignition switch.

Hi! If your car has the faulty 109 relay, then replace it! My car had the same symptoms, and was cured with a new relay.

Hi! If your car has the faulty 109 relay, then replace it! My car had the same symptoms, and was cured with a new relay.

Relay 109 is diesel only

Hi!

So problem is solved. It was not fuse box issue, that one was changed, service guy claim it was melted abit due to local corrosion on the actual fuse. Skoda service made basic setting on idle rpm on computer becouse they claim the car was out of battery few times and that could make it stall if rpm was to low in hot conditions, claim that was typical issue. That didnt help very much just emptied account abit.. The car kept dying when it got warm as soon as the rpm fell under 2000. I was sligthly depressed as they started talking about all kinds of weird conspiratory theories concerning this mysteri. Changed to another garage as they were getting to confused... in the new place guy told me it could be the rpm sensor, and if that wasnt the issue i could go make nails of the car becouse he would not be able to find it. They changed it(expensive as hell) Luckily it worked! Now runs both warm and cold!!! Yeaaaahh

Thx for the help so far guys!

I will need to change the instruments i guesse since they still failing.