I need to replace my rear nearside calliper as the handbrake lever keeps jamming. (been an on & off problem for almost two years now!!)

I've taken the rear calliper off (but not the hose) in the past in order to either change the brake pads & disk or to free up the handbrake lever. However, I've never removed the brake fluid hose.

Someone told me it was just a case of just clamping the hose near the connector, then unscrewing the hose from the calliper, screwing the new calliper on, releasing the clamp on the hose & then letting the brake fluid drain through by releasing the bleed nipple & using only gravity to push it through.

Is this ok or will I need some specialized tool in order to get the brake fluid through the new calliper?

If its ok, does anyone have any tips or tricks that make it easier?

Cheers.

Edited 17 September, 201213 yr by Chris Berry

While brake hose clamps are available, I tend to shy away from these as they work by crushing the hose. My method is to press the brake pedal and lock in the down position (I use a block of wood or similar between the pedal and front of the drivers seat) - you need the pads out to allow the pedal to travel without pressurising the caliper. At this position, the piston should have passed the port that is open to the reservoir stopping any forward flow of fluid or air. Unscrew the caliper and replace, then use the old fashioned pump while someone is opening the bleed nipple.

As with all brake operations, ensure that you are happy with any advise given due to the safety implications.

Edited 17 September, 201213 yr by KeithCheetham

Many replacement calipers come prefilled with brake fluid. If yours doesn't, then prefill it through the hose port.

Check that the pistons are wound full back. If they are not, you will need a tool to do so.

Lock the brake pedal as described above and with the calipers side by side, transfer the brake hose as quickly as you can. You may not see any fluid leak out but you MUST bleed that caliper as air may have got in.

I use these, they have a one way valve so it's a one man job.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VIZIBLEED-VISIBLEED-ONE-MAN-BRAKE-AND-CLUTCH-BLEED-BLEEDING-TOOL-KIT-UNIVERSAL-/310417211529?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item48464ec089

You can buy a brake pipe clamp I got mine from halfords but any motor factors should have them (it is orange in colour).

To bleed the brakes you will be better getting an easybleed tool .

Hope this helps

Regards Whoosh

"I use these, they have a one way valve so it's a one man job.

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item48464ec089"

Looks good. How's it work?

Edited 18 September, 201213 yr by Chris Berry

I used a 'Gunson Eezibleed' kit. I was changing the back brake linings,and the tie wire ,I put on hold the pistons in came off.I quickly refitted the piston ,and wire ,but air had got in. I lowered the front tyre air pressure to 20 psi (recommended pressure for Eezibleed)

I did not need to fill Eezibleed container with new brake fluid,just topped the brake/clutch reservior,when needed,Applied pressure from a tyre,bled cylinder with short plastic tube from nipple ,keeping tube other end under level of fluid in catching container.

If what I have written is not clear read up on Eezibeed.

Most important thing is not to let the reservior level go to low,as you may allow air to enter the clutch circuit.(Brake and Clutch use one common reservior).

...I lowered the front tyre air pressure to 20 psi (recommended pressure for Eezibleed)...

It's best to keep the pressure to below 1 bar (15 psi). This ensures you will avoid ABS problems that require VCDS to resolve.