Greetings,

As some people may know, I've recently liberated my vrs from a barn and got it back on the road after nearly 2 years. I've put it all back to standard and it's been running really well until recently when it kept throwing up the 17705 fault code and dropping into limp mode. Did all the usaual checking of little pipes and replaced any that looked dodgy but still the problem remained. I had a think and came up with a way of pressure testing the system. The method was a bit pikey but worked . It involved capping off the intake pipe with a suitably sized object, which happened to be a can of hammerite smooth green, and then applying a bit of pressure with a 12v tyre pump.

I found 2 slight leaks, one was the clip around the recirc valve, new clip sorted that and it was also losing a little bit from around the threads of the throttle position sensor.

Bit of sealant around the threads and all was sealed. No more hissing could be heard from anywhere.

What I did forget to do, was take the oil cap off whilst I did the test. This school boy eror meant I also pressured up the crankcase and squeezed a bit of oil passed the seals causing a smoky start up. Fortunately it cleared and no harm has been done .

With all the leaks sorted, I thought that would bit, but alas, it was still dropping into limp mode. I drove the car with vcds plugged in so i could keep an eye on when exactly it would throw up the code and I stumbled upon something. My thermostat has been on it's way out for a little while prevent the car from holding proper operating temperature, generally struggling to get over 62 degrees. With the computer running I noticed it would throw up the code only when the temperature had dropped, when I was in town, moving quite slowly, enablng the engine to warm up a bit more, it wouldn't throw up the code, as soon as i got back on open roads and the temp dropped again, the code came back.

So new stat in today and car is now holding proper temperature and no 17705 code or limp mode

Has anyone ever heard of a dodgy stat causing the 17705 code before? Only thing I can think of is that the ecu is sensing the engine being out of acceptable perametres and deciding to use that fault code as the best way to protect itself.

Either way, I'm happy and hopefully this info may hep someone else in the future.

Good one mate.

Some well worked stuff there and some very good research too. Dont think ross tech even thought of that?

But still this is very helpful. Should put in the vcds section if there is any code definitions in there?

Wosh i knew how to run vcds and do all that while driving.

Wanna do it to the fabia as my eco has dropped right off. And ive fitted new cam pos sensore and maf. Jus need to do glow plugs but no more codes so we will see

Good to see you back too.

Didnt think it had been 2 years mate.

Did someone say Pikey?

http://www.youtube.c...ed/GhRBmek18uI"

my mate had this same problem with a leon cupra r bam engine 225 had dodgy stat and made it go into limp home nearly everyday replaced loads of stuff then found out it was the stat something to do with excessive water flow cuz the stat was stuck open he changed it and has been fine ever since

Thats a new one on me, fair play for sorting though, next job ..... clean your engine bay

Has this cured it's mate ? Thought I'll give you afew days to test her .

Has this cured it's mate ? Thought I'll give you afew days to test her .

Haven't driven it since initial testing on Saturday, which was about 40 miles of a mix of town, country roads and dual carriage ways. Usually it would've been in limp mode by the end of the street. Car rarely gets used in the week as I have a company van for work. I might take it out for a spin tomorrow night to give it another test and I'll let you know how it goes.

Right, just done another 20 miles in it this evening and it's still not totally cured :(. Dropped into limp mode once during warm up. Once it was up to full temp it was fine. Could it maybe be a fault in the map (standard, not remapped) as I'm positive it's not leaking boost anywhere and surely, if there was a boost leak, engine temp would be irrelevant?

Displeased.

N75 valve. Worked for me on my old Octavia

N75 valve. Worked for me on my old Octavia

Already done, along with maf and N249. Just been doing a bit of reading up and it's looking lkely to be a map problem, probably some requested value gone adrift somewhere. Hate computers, they only cause hassle. Nuts and bolts are easy.

Already done, along with maf and N249. Just been doing a bit of reading up and it's looking lkely to be a map problem, probably some requested value gone adrift somewhere. Hate computers, they only cause hassle. Nuts and bolts are easy.

I'm in the same boat. Everything's been checked twice and I've been told map is the last place to look.

Have you cleaned out and reset the throttle body?

(Btw that's the air temp sensor in the manifold not the TPS).

Have you cleaned out and reset the throttle body?

No need to reset. Sheer folklore.

Depends if it was disconnected when cleaned

No need to reset. Sheer folklore.

Really? Strange how Skoda would set of test plans to do it then and if the unit or battery is disconnected the basic setting is lost.

Depends if it was disconnected when cleaned

No it doesn't.

It won't know ANY difference, unless you turned the ignition on. Even then it will eventually reset itself. Like I said, sheer folklore.

I have removed mine, cleaned it, and swapped it for other units literally dozens of times, and NEVER has it faltered.

Not once.

No it doesn't.

It won't know ANY difference, unless you turned the ignition on. Even then it will eventually reset itself. Like I said, sheer folklore.

I have removed mine, cleaned it, and swapped it for other units literally dozens of times, and NEVER has it faltered.

Not once.

Ok, your the man, as techie says there's a protocol for resetting it, so it does lose its way, like you say it will find it setting eventually so we are all right