I've read about people I creasing the power to the full beam or something?

Is there any more info on this anywhere?

Anyone?

Read through this:

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/233066-hids-now-fitted/

If any questions after, then post back here.

Read through this:

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/233066-hids-now-fitted/

If any questions after, then post back here.

Thanks

So how do I connect the power cable to the battery? Surely not straight onto the negative and positive terminals?

And how do I put relays on the main beam.

Car electrics are not my strongest point.

Took me 8 hours to wire up spots on my Mini once. Turned out the only thing wrong was the brackets on the lights weren't earthed.

I would try to PM dieselV6, as he's very much into all of your questions.

Post #2 in the thread Cown kindly quoted explains how to route wires from battery in the very first paragraph.

http://www.briskoda....d/#entry2736126

Yes, you connect it straight to M6 screw terminals via a 20A fuse, but there needs to be a relay (or better a pair of relays) connected in line as well. Connect relays to the high beam feeds.

An even better way of hooking relay up is using 2 to 4 Schottky diodes, they need to be rated at least 9A continuous current. I like 90SQ045 and similar as you can reliably wire them using crimp connectors.

A very good setup that has high beams working even in event of relay/fuse failure and provides a bit of soft start function is described below:

1. Open bonnet, remove plenum chamber cover. Drill a hole in the firewall, in the uppermost part to plenum chamber, next to bonnet holder. Close to this point there is also a relay mounting point, I have a heated windscreen relay. If there is no M6 screw there, attach relay using method of your choice.

2. Cut headlamp main beam wires, or drill small holes in the caps for running relayed power into the headlight and connecting it there using blade connectors. Either option is fine, choose one that you feel comfortable with. From now on, part wires going to the lamp are referred to as headlamp side, wires going back to the cabin are cabin side.

3. connect wires, ideally run them in a weatherproof conduit, PVC is probably good enough. I went through firewall next to brake lines, then behind washer fluid bottle into the inside of wheel well, then into the bumper. Make sure you leave long enough cable for TB job to be possible (front in service mode position).

Good way of connecting lamps when using relays:

• [battery+] - [ fuse A/B 10A-20A in weatherproof holder] - [weatherproof relay A and B contact 37]. Use thick wiring here, the thicker the better, AWG10 / 5mm sq.
  
• [relay A/B contact 80] - eachheadlamp high beam wires on headlamp side. Use thick wiring here, the thicker the better, ideally AWG10 / 5mmsq .
  
• [left headlamp high beam wire from cabin side] - [schottky diode A dark end]
  [right headlamp high beam wire from cabin side] - [schottky diode B dark end]
  [schottky diode A striped end] - [relay contact 85]
  [schottky diode B striped end] - [relay contact 85]
  All these are relay wires, they do not carry much current, so can be thin.
  
• [relay contact 86] - [battery-]
  
• [schottky diode A2 dark end] - [left main beam cabin side]
  [schottky diode B2 dark end] - [right main beam cabin side]
  [schottky diode A2 striped end] - [left main beam headlamp side]
  [schottky diode B2 striped end] - [right main beam headlamp side]
  
• [left and right headlamp ground] - [battery -]. Ground connection of both headlamp grounds to battery will improve the light further as Superb Mk1 has quite long ground wires ending in the cabin.
  

Wiring diagram is here, a bit crude but all info is there:

Doing it this way will run initial current through car's stock installation reducing initial current spike (especially when low beams are on), and then after 10ms-20ms when the relay connects you will get full battery voltage to the main beams. This softer start will ensure that bulbs do not blow any quicker than with stock install.

Cost is cable cost +about 5-10 pounds depending on source of parts. Buying things from scratch it should still be under 30quid, and that is assuming good quality cabling. t can be done under 2 hours as long as you plan wire routing in advance.

Edited 22 October, 201213 yr by dieselV6