I read on here that mk4 golf seats will bolt staight into an octavia vRS so therefore I am wondering if anyone knows if this will bolt in without any problems ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volkswagen-Golf-Mk4-Cobra-Tailored-Seat-Subframes-SU-VW-GO4-R-T-/190720905225?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c67da1009

This for some reason isn't listed on the Demon Tweaks website (not sure why) but the Octavia specific version is (at £90 + delivery), but i'd have thought if the mk4 golf seats fit without issue then the above subframe should too ?

Have you seen the selector on Demon tweaks website ?

demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/seat-mounting-frames-vehicle-specific

Seems very specific about certain models of base

I suspect dodgy info

Have you seen the selector on Demon tweaks website ?

demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/seat-mounting-frames-vehicle-specific

Seems very specific about certain models of base

I suspect dodgy info

Yes thats how I know they list them for the octy, but for £90 + delivery (and also the leon's) but they don't list on there own website those models for the mk4 golf.

Just to update this, yes they do fit without a problem.

Just wish my Corbeau bucket seat would mount to the subframe as easily.

Cool so what ones you got buddy as I need some

What's the issue with the seat fitting ??

The one in the first post Volkswagen Golf Mk4 Cobra Tailored Seat Subframes SU-VW-GO4-R-T.

They are made to fit cobra seats, but as mine is a Corbeau, the bolt spacing is different.

But as I don't need the tilt function, I think I will grind off the hindges, re-drill the bottom part of the frame (the bit that is car specific) to fit the runners to that part, then re-drill the top part of the tilting frame to line up with my Corbeau bolt holes and the runners.

Got any photos ?

The proper Corbeau mounts are £135 each - can see why you didn't want to but them

Got any photos ?

The proper Corbeau mounts are £135 each - can see why you didn't want to but them

Here you go, the holes in the bottom of my seat are wider then the sliders and also the front and rear holes are closer together than on the sliders.

So I am thinking of fitting the sliders to the bottom part, grinding off the hindges and then grinding off the welds of the top part to give me 4 pieces of straight metal which I can drill to bolt into the bottom of my seat and then re-drill the sliders so it all bolts back together. I am hoping that will be strong enough like that, but if not I will have to get someone to weld the other 2 straight metal bars back in to make it square again.

How about making two cross bars,

Bolt these to the runners, then seat to the bar

Super simple

How about making two cross bars,

Bolt these to the runners, then seat to the bar

Super simple

That is effectivly what I want to do, however I do not need the tilting part so figured I would cut up the top part to adapt it to do as you have suggested, and doing that saves me having to buy more metal.

Looking at that design, would I be right in thinking that mechanism that locks the seat flat still allows it move about a few bit ?

By hand it seems pretty sturdy, the mech is spring loaded. No idea what it would be like when a seat is bolted to it and your throwing a car into a corner at 80+mph though lol

the seat shouldnt move a lot when locked in place, there should be some prongs linked to the bar mechanism, that holds the sliding frame in place.

funnily enough i fitted some corbeau buckets to my friends new mini JCW, and the universal bases he bought were useless. In the end, i used his old seat bases with part of the new mechanism which i had to weld to the base, then the seat bolted to that.

Problem is more metal you add, more weight you add, and they weighed over 10kgs as it was (he is stripping the car so we reduced metal where we could).

One thing to note is that sliding function (or at least the ability to adjust the drivers seat back and fowards) is a requirement for new mot regulations iirc.

Those hinges don't look very sturdy...shame, as looks like a well thought out piece of kit otherwise.

"Where a car has been extensively modified or converted, certain Reasons for Rejection such as 'components missing where fitted as standard' should not be applied, for example:

• A car converted for rally use (i.e. rear seats removed and fitted with a roll cage and full harness seatbelts etc) may have been converted so as not to require a brake servo, power steering or airbags.
  

VOSA says it is expected that modifications to cars converted for track or rally use will be permanent and readily identifiable, and wouldn't include those where an airbag has been disconnected for "occasional" off-road use, for instance.

We're also told fixed drivers' seats are acceptable in any vehicle provided the adjusting mechanism has been removed and the seat is now clearly a fixed seat in one position. Simply removing the adjuster lever or locking it in one position won't be acceptable for an MOT.

Full PH feature/thread

Not quite sure where that leaves you with those mounts - the bit about removing the locking lever and locking into one position is exactly what those Cobra bases do.

this

'We're also told fixed drivers' seats are acceptable in any vehicle provided the adjusting mechanism has been removed and the seat is now clearly a fixed seat in one position. Simply removing the adjuster lever or locking it in one position won't be acceptable for an MOT'

contradicts this later in the statement

'Seats

The driver's seat must be able to be secured fore and aft in two or three different positions. Electric motor-driven seats need to move fore and aft'

Those bottom mounts are harder to have several mounting positions, unlike side mounts which have holes/slots for movement.

I think, its better to go with the sliding mechanism anyway, that allows for fine adjustment, and other drivers if required as buckets are quite specific in the way they hold you.

As always, it will come down to the discretion of the mot tester, so choose a good one!

Flippin' 'eck! Mini Ocelots!

Full PH feature/thread

Not quite sure where that leaves you with those mounts - the bit about removing the locking lever and locking into one position is exactly what those Cobra bases do.

this

'We're also told fixed drivers' seats are acceptable in any vehicle provided the adjusting mechanism has been removed and the seat is now clearly a fixed seat in one position. Simply removing the adjuster lever or locking it in one position won't be acceptable for an MOT'

contradicts this later in the statement

'Seats

The driver's seat must be able to be secured fore and aft in two or three different positions. Electric motor-driven seats need to move fore and aft'

Those bottom mounts are harder to have several mounting positions, unlike side mounts which have holes/slots for movement.

I think, its better to go with the sliding mechanism anyway, that allows for fine adjustment, and other drivers if required as buckets are quite specific in the way they hold you.

As always, it will come down to the discretion of the mot tester, so choose a good one!

MOT is no problem, it's simply a case of remove 1 bolt, pull out bucket seat and subframe and replace with original seat and 2 bolts.

5 mins and it's done

Hence not hacking apart the original seat

Flippin' 'eck! Mini Ocelots!

lol

lol

hehe

good plan dude in keeping old seats!