Wasn't overly impressed with the feel of the standard brakes, seemed quite a bit of pedal travel and then something decided to happen. I checked the servo as described on here and that does what it should, checked the vacuum hose and there are no splits and changed the fluid. Nothing really seemed to sharpen them up so thought I'd bite the bullet and get the 312mm brakes, regardless of anything else they will be better at braking.

Fitted it all last night, topped up and re-bled the whole system and took it out for a drive. When the bite does come in then it pulls up in a hurry but there is still quite a lot of pedal travel before things start to happen. I got paged disks and pads which seem much better once a bit of heat is in them but initial bite isn't as good as I was hoping. I don't know if it's previous cars that have over servo'd brakes but even with 312 it's still quite underwhelming. Could there still be some air in the system which needs bleeding? Is there any way of adjusting the pedal to take out some of the travel?

Hmmm ... sure others will be able help with things to check but I know when I hit the break pedal I get thrown into the windscreen, well I would if not wearing my seatbelt :p

Got pagid disks and pads too.

How are you bleeding it?

Could be issue with the rears causing extra play in the pedal. One way of narrowing the search could be to clamp (mole grips if you don't have proper clamps) off the flexible hoses at the rear and see if the pedal feels massively improved. I wouldn't recommend driving on the road like that though, and don't forget to take the clamps off after.

Or it could just be all working as it should and just a different feeling pedal to other cars you've driven?

The beginning 2cms are nothing, then wham! I assumed that's a standard thing on fabias.

I tend to double tap to get it slightly more linear.

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Took a while for my pagids to bed in.

They definitely improved over time.

Did you uprate the brake fluid or just replace like for like?

Used new Pagid dot 4 fluid. Will give them a bit of time to bed in and report back.

I was using ATE super blue, slightly higher spec than 'standard' fluid.

The colour is to visibly show when you are getting new clean fluid through.

They also do a clear variant of the same spec fluid for the same reason.

So if you have blue in there you bleed until it runs clear.

I'm sure I'll be corrected if wrong but as far as I know to do a FULL and COMPLETE

bleed and change of the brake fluid you also need to trigger the ABS pump with vagcom.

Also I believe the clutch system shares the same fluid so that may need a

bleed through too??

I have looked at the official workshop guide a couple of days ago and you need to do the clutch as well. Also there is a lot of fluid to be flushed, I was surprised to be honest, I think its around 1 litre in total.

I did flush it through with super blue before replacing to 312 disks so at least when I put the pagid stuff back in I could see when the blue had cleared the caliper. Is there any info on bleeding the clutch? If not I'll go on a search mission.

Being honest I paid my mechanic to do mine.

My skills lie elsewhere.

Only really nead to trigger the ABS if you have done a complete drain down of the ABS unit itself..............defo bleed the clutch....and use a pressure bleed kit like a gunsons eazy-bleed...........if still bad then could be the front rubber hoses expanding too much so replace with goodridge braided hoses.....

Sequence: slave cylinder, brake caliper Quantity of brake fluid which must flow out: Slave cylinder 0,1 litres Rear right 0,3 litres Rear left 0,3 litres Front right 0.2 litres Front left 0.2 litres

So no ABS mentioned, you justhave to find the vent valve on the clutch slave cylinder and bleed from that.