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IDLE ISSUE ON VRS LE?


D4UJD

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Hello,

I have a vrs le 2007 with approx 65k on the clock. The car has always been regularly serviced and it had some major work done (turbo, cooler, rebuilt heads etc.) at Skoda when the turbo went under warranty at 40k.

I seem to remember the normal idle for my vrs was around 800-900rpm, correct? Lets assume it is.

I have noticed a couple of months after the last service which included, fuel filter and changing the EGR valve gasket to a 9mm the engine when starting from cold would rev at approx 1200rpm until you blipped the throttle pedal which would drop the revs back to the normal 900rpm. I do not think this was fault was cause of the filter/gasket.

9 months down the line and almost every time you start the engine the revs are at 1200rpm until the throttle pedal is touched and it only seems to drop to 1000rpm. The fault now even exists when the engine is hot on start up and also seen intermittently when stopping at traffic lights etc. from higher driving revs. The idle now seems to be more around the 1000 mark than 8-900.

There is no warning lights present on the dash.

I assume this is the start of a sticking throttle body but before I pull it apart to clean it I though I would ask here to see if there is anything else I should look at while doing the throttle body.

Thanks Dave

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Hi,

Sorry cant help you with a fix, my 07se does the same, took mine back to skoda when it started doing it as they were servicing it and they said nothing wrong!

Still does it so interested what others may say to cure this!!!

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Same as mine, I posted a video of mine doing the high idle. I'm pretty sure it's due to a damaged alternator wire.

I had a few reply with the same fault, check the output of the alternator in start up, will be between 10/12v on yours I recon...

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mine does this, if i life the pedla with my foot it stops.

Is there a known fault with the pedal?

The pedal potentiometer (inside the pedal box) is adjustable. Sometimes it sticks & lifting it with your foot will bring it all the way back to normal idle. There are two little bolts on the side of the pedal box (the top one will have a paint-mark on it) & these can be loosened & the potentiometer "zero" position adjusted to bring the idle back down to normal. This method of adjustment is also handy to increase the idle slightly, to remove the "idle shake" issue which a few people have mentioned here.

It doesn't throw up fault codes when using this & I used it to get rid of the "idle shake" on mine (coincidentally, after I fitted the 14mm EGR gasket, to remove the BLT "hesitation").

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The one I did on a ford was quite easy. It split quite easily, inside was like a circuit board with 6 metal prongs pressing against it in a curve, when you press the pedal it moves the prongs across the board to send a signal of how much throttle is being pressed.

Over time (120k miles and 6 years) a lot of dust had built up inside and the board had got a layer of metal filings, dust etc over it. Just used plenty of electrical part cleaner, wiped the board with a fresh white cloth to see the dirt and it was bad!

Put it together and had no problems since, over 170k miles now so well worth doing.

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  • 1 month later...

Still not got to the bottom of this.

I'm wary of adjusting the pot on the back of the pedal as the high idle is intermitant.

I have read on google other pd engines have suffered the same problem with a faulty coolant sensor?

People's opinions?

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Same thing happened to me - VRS SE. Over revving but a quick "blip" or lift from under the pedal would put it back to normal (for a while).

Had the throttle pedal replaced. It was the throttle position sensor on the pedal for me as it's fly by wire.

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