Have an ongoing problem that seems to be getting worse.

Ever since I had a fault with the MAF (which was cleared) I've had an issue with excessive vibration in the car when idling.

It only happens once the car has reached 90 degrees. It's bad with or without my foot on the clutch. The longer I leave it idling the worse the shaking and vibrating gets.

Not sure if the MAF playing up has clogged the EGR? The fault with it definitely went once the DRL lights were unplugged from the sensor. But don't know if this has caused something else to happen?

I also have noticed the throttle sensor is playing up to and randomly has high revs intermittently upon starting or sometimes when stopping at lights. This is v intermittent though.

Any help or advice much appreciated!

Have you tried the 'soft reset' (disconnecting the battery for 40 mins)? worth a try. If that doesn't work give it a scan with VCDS.

Does it stop if you turn aircon on?

Good luck with this... Had my car about 7 months and it is back and fourth to the garage for them to try find the problem :/ So far had these done / Changed.

Tandum Pump

New Injector

DMF + Clutch

Injectors sent off for testing (All came back within tolerance)

Alternator pulley

EGR Valve

It is currently with a "Master Technician" as the guys who I normally deal with are now hitting their heads on a brick wall.

Nope, the aircon doesn't seem to stop it!

I reset the MAF by unplugging the sensor and it did nothing!

Urggh god, really hope I don't have to go through all that!

As I said the issue only seemed to start after the MAF came up with an error and the EML came on.

Just get a new MAF from ECP - they are not that expensive, especially with the 25% off they always run online.

Its the first place to start.

I just spoke to Skoda and apparently if I take it in I have to pay £87 for the diagnostic test regardless of whether they find a fault or not. Is this right?

Also apparently certain things aren't covered under it. Would a MAF be covered? Don't want to fork out that cash for no reason.

Problem with a MAF is they dont always throw an error, but can be out of spec. Especially on these old cars that dont have very advanced logging etc

For the sake of £40 or whetever it is I would just go get a new one - it will fail at some point anyway.

Hmm true, thing is I don't know if it's the sensor or the whole maf and sensor that need replacing.

I'm tempted just to replace the sensor, is this possible? Also how easy to replace as I have NO mechanical knowledge so this isn't something I'd feel comfortable doing myself.

Thing is the throttle pedal is playing up to

Its a unit.

Its really really really easy to swap.

You buy one from ECP (a BOSCH one) for something like £70 - take yours off and swap it over (5 mins job with basic tools).

Take your old one back and they give you a £30 refund.

Prices are made up - but its roughly that.

Use the discount code PARTS25 and pick it up from your nearest store.

Its a unit.

Its really really really easy to swap.

You buy one from ECP (a BOSCH one) for something like £70 - take yours off and swap it over (5 mins job with basic tools).

Take your old one back and they give you a £30 refund.

Prices are made up - but its roughly that.

Use the discount code PARTS25 and pick it up from your nearest store.

Does all the dash trim not need to be removed for changing the throttle sensor? I tried to remove mine to adjust it and failed!

Another suggestion has been possible engine temp sensor problem that can cause lumpy idle but there doesn't seem to be a prob with the accuracy of the temp sensor?

Also the turning AC seems to help it. What's with that?

Also the turning AC seems to help it. What's with that?

When shaking on idle - If you park downhill does the shaking stop / become less & when parked uphill does it become worse? It does for me.

I actually found it to be the other way round. When parked downhill it's worse when uphill it's not as bad but still noticeable. Stumped

sounds stupid, engine mounts got allot of play in them?

Checked the mounts and no excessive play

sounds stupid, engine mounts got allot of play in them?

This were also checked on mine. The gearbox mount had slight play which they changed with no luck.

CarlizzleFoSho - As soon as I get my car back and if it is fixed I will tell you what they did.

Just had a thought. When cold if your car is left to idle does it do this? I recorded this a while ago as Skoda said they could not get the car to do it!

It only ever made that noise and shaked when cold. When warm it would shake without a noise.

They cured this with replacing the Tandum pump however it still shakes at idle.

check out my thread

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/248594-car-shakes-at-idle/page__st__120__hl__+shaking%20+on%20+idle#entry3084349

if you search for Car shaking AGAIN it also continues

You said it doesnt get beteter with AC on - but now it does get better with AC on?

If it does and its a BLT then its probably that lean burn thing it does at idle and its then some how getting aplified.

Mine judders a bit too when stationary but everything I found about it, is that its normal for that engine.

Cheers for sharing your thread. I'll keep an eye on it as the symptoms seem very similar!

Yes, before that was a mistake, it definitely gets better when the AC is on. The throttle seems to be playing up more though, with the revs going up on their own every day during driving and when started. Goes up to 1.5k and won't go down until I put my foot under the throttle pedal.