My Octavia has started to annoy me by dying on launch. If I need to get out into a gap in traffic this can be quite dangerous. Symptoms are get a few revs up, bring up clutch - car seems to be pulling, then dies (not completely - it's still going). After what seems an age, it starts pulling again. I guess this is around the 1500-1800 rpm mark. I can get over it by giving it more revs and slipping the clutch, but should I have to? Could it be over/underfuelling? It's below the turbo boost speed so can't blame any of that part of the system methinks. Any ideas? Thought I saw a similar thread the other day but can't find it now.

I seem to recall reading about the surging behaviour too, but like you, can't remember who started it :(

Nick

Does it only happen for first few minutes after a cold start ? -- if so more likely down to faulty engine temp sender - fairly common.

If it does it all the time -- does engine rev freely at standstill -- if you try and rev over 3,500 to 4,000 rpm - does it cough & splutter -- sounds like Air Mass Meter.

Other items are split engine breather hose - can sometimes be a problem with standard cars - never mind remap cars.

If not any of the above - try and post more details ie -- how long for,when,engine hot/cold,weather hot/cold/raining -- if engine generally feels ok etc.

No, happens all the time. My Mondeo used to do it too. Revs just fine. Happened this afternoon half way home - Y junction where you have to pull out smartly because of lots of oncoming traffic. This after 35 miles drive or so. Actually probably better when engine is colder. Maybe I'm just expecting too much and need to slip the clutch a little more.

Nick

I think if it's something you've noticed different enough to post -- more likely a fault rather than normal.

Possibly an air-leak or similar -- would certainly be worth checking all the breather hoses for signs of collapsing / splitting -- best way is to get someone to rev engine & let it drop while you watch hoses -- you may find one starting to weaken -- seem to remember seeing another thread about this with remapped cars -- as they have to cope with more boost.

If the car is performing otherwise as before -- more likely for one of the hoses to be collapsing,rather than split -- as would effect boost.

Sorry can't be of any more help -- maybe if Big_k see's this thread he put his two penneth in as well.

Originally posted by ncarring in this post

Any ideas? Thought I saw a similar thread the other day but can't find it now.

I posted a similar problem about a week ago.

I don't think my syptoms are as pronouced as yours but it's annoying all the same.

I did the throttle body re-align thing and it seemed to reduce but not eliminate the problem.

The thread was

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3098

Nick,

sounds similar to what I have. Mike noticed the same ting when remapping my car; said I've got a lazy engine(????) as he couldn't see/find anything that was obviously wrong.

As you say worst occurance is when pulling out of junctions; nomral amount of revs but no go until boost comes in. Ok if you use more revs...about 3k.

Have mentioned this a few times here but everyone keeps saying it's traction control/ASR etc.

After fitting the Dynatwist CAI pick-up is much improved.

I find it's quite difficult to give anymore information as all your doing is moving off using around 2k of rev (normal revs).

Cheers.

Adrian.

Originally posted by Freakcrab in this post

I posted a similar problem about a week ago.

I don't think my syptoms are as pronouced as yours but it's annoying all the same.

I did the throttle body re-align thing and it seemed to reduce but not eliminate the problem.

The thread was

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3098

I don't know for sure but I guess this is a drive-by-wire thing only ...

Adrian maybe I'll be next in line for a CAI then. It behaved itself this morning and that was despite me trying to provoke it to do the same thing. Possibly this is because I was trying harder so I pulled away quicker anyway. Plus it was a lot cooler this morning - I suppose it's bound to be better under those conditions.

Nick,

I agree that you tend to give it more revs when pulling away to compensate.

Also my experience of the problem is that it doesn't always happen...or may be it does it's just that I haven't recreated the conditions exactly i.e. amount of revs, temp., angle of road etc.

I did take mine to the dealer a few weeks into ownership and of course the problem didn't occur.

Well CAI seems to have cured/gotten round the problem.

Cheers.

Adrian.

I have just had my surging problem fixed at the dealers after several months of the problem occuring and several visits to the dealers. The engine kept surging below 2000rpm and the driveability from setting off was very poor especially when cold. I swapped my RS with the service manager for a couple of days to let him find the problem.

They did two things, they cleaned the throttle body and also found a turbo vacuum pipe that was collapsing, as it was too close to the manifold and had gone a bit soft. They replaced the pipe and now its perfect.

No surging and drives smoothly from start off even when cold.

Stu.

:mw:

I admit hoses do seem a good possibility - mine has 46000 miles now. Any idea which one it was?

Must admit I haven't a clue about hose failures.......should associated faults happen all the time or can they be random?

If it's the latter why the hell is this so?

I agree hard to see how it can be random - maybe temperature makes a difference. Certainly seems less susceptible when the engine is cold.

It happened again pulling out of a side road onto a steepish hill on Tuesday. Very hot again and soon after setting off from work, but engine should have been up to temp. I had to dip the clutch and build some revs up again to get out of the way of someone coming up the hill. A few months ago on that same corner, the problem wasn't getting the engine going, but keeping the wheels in contact ....

It's booked into the dealer next week for them to have a look. I've mentioned hoses as a possibility. Thanks for the advice, all.

Well the dealer had a look at it and couldn't find anything. They cleared two faults:

1. Engine Control Unit disabled!! :eek:

2. Key signal too low

Neither of these seem like the cause of the problem. I'll have to monitor it and take it in again if it recurs. Meanwhile I'll probably take a look around the hoses etc. to see if I have any soft ones like sgreen. It hasn't happened to me for a few days.

Have had similar problems myself and thought it was 'driver error' rather than thinking that it might be something related to the engine. Pulling into traffic it would sometimes take an age for any real response from the engine, then it would suddenly pick up and start to pull normally. Fix was the same as others, drop clutch pick up revs and then lift off clutch again. Am off to the dealer today to look at new Fab vrs (for misses not me!) so might ask them to either to take a look or see if they are aware of these problems with hoses etc.

Damo

How can you tell whether one of your hoses is knackered?

How can you tell if there's a hose leak..........some sort of hssing noise? Can leaks be detected at idle or do you need someone to rev whilst you look?

Cheers.

Adrian.

Best way to look is have someone rev engine -- your listening for noise and looking for hoses collapsing when the engine is on vac -- usually plaice of failure is at a junction or corner -- close inspection by crushing hose is good way to tell.

Nick.

The two faults listed go hand in hand -- both related to immobiliser,have you had any occasion where car will start -run for a couple of seconds then cut out ? -- if yes then probable cause is an item called reader coil - it is part of ignition barrel -- it works when you start car - ECU sends signal to reader coil - reader coil reads key signal(transponder) and sends code back to ECU - if they match great car keeps running - if they don't is stops.

If you have not had any starting problems -- might be one of your key's starting to go -- esp if been dropped or submerged in water.

There is a useful article on boost leak isolation in our web links here. Members who haven't yet read the article on chipped 1.8T reliability will also find that in the same link. It is well worth a read.

My car has also this

Originally posted by DGW in this post

There is a useful article on boost leak isolation in our web links here. Members who haven't yet read the article on chipped 1.8T reliability will also find that in the same link. It is well worth a read.

Denis that's a lovely link - didn't know it was there (and unfortunately clicking on the link doesn't help me find it next time) but sadly the diagnostic techniques rely on having a) VAGCOM and another identical car so you can swap bits ....

So a visual inspection it is !

Replaced the little vacuum tube to the top of the DV yesterday - noticed when I installed the Forge that it was very perished and brittle. This morning the car GOES again - whoopee!! Not only that but I can now hear my DV for the first time ever. Obviously that pipe has been on the way out for ages.

Happy Nick :bouncer:

Good job Nick!

Hopefully this will have cured the problem you were experiencing. I don't think this is a issue with mine; going to have to look around all the hoses I suppose.

My car has also this